Tiling ONTO doors

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HI all,

I am converting my garage into a study with small toilet at rear. I would like to tile the back wall of my study with slate or similar, the wall will have a central door into the toilet and i would like to conceal this by tiling the entire wall including the door.

To open the door i was planning on some sort of push in to open catch in order to avoid handles.

Has anyone done this before and if so what sort of problems would i face attempting this?

Thanks for you help.

Blue.
 
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it would not be me doing it mate, you would have no problems as such fixing the tiles to the door BUT because of the constant movement of the door (opening and shutting) i wouldnt hold out much hope of your tiles lasting to long before they come crashing down
 
Generally I'd agree with the previous poster but ............if you are really set on doing it you could try using BAL Fastflex or silicone to stick them on with. But, either way, you're taking a chance.

Just a thought.

Regards

Paul Eamonn
 
Hope you have some good strong hinges for the door.

My biggest fear would be a tile falling off the door as it was opened, especially if it hit a child.
 
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Generally I'd agree with the previous poster but ............if you are really set on doing it you could try using BAL Fastflex or silicone to stick them on with. But, either way, you're taking a chance.

Just a thought.

Regards

Paul Eamonn


Regardless if using fastflex the tiles will come down, fast flex is only to help aid with a small amount of movement/flex. It is not something you can put on a moving object like a door .I will re-phrase that, YES fastflex WILL STICK to the door, but WILL NOT cope with the door opening and shutting against the jam intermittently
 
Regardless if using fastflex the tiles will come down, fast flex is only to help aid with a small amount of movement/flex. It is not something you can put on a moving object like a door .I will re-phrase that, YES fastflex WILL STICK to the door, but WILL NOT cope with the door opening and shutting against the jam intermittently

I think we'll have to disagree on this one JC - if for no other reason than I think you and I are looking at it from different directions.

You are correct in saying that Fastflex is not designed nor intended to take up lots of flex in the substrate but it is supposed to be able to withstand vibration as is found in suspended wooden floors.

So if BlueBaron used a really solid 'inflexable' door, for example an oak door (no I wouldn't be inclined to cover up an oak door either but, it ain't our door to judge) any movement in the substrate, ie. the door, would be restricted to vibration provided the door is opened and closed with care. After all, if BB is prepared to spend out on an oak door he may also choose to buy a good quality door closer that took over the operation of closing the door under hydraulics.

Where as I think you were considering using an 'eggbox' door from B&Q which will flap about all over the place especially when slammed about or kicked by the smaller members of our species.

Over the years I have constantly been amazed at the ability of both Fastflex and many decent silicones, come to that, to withstand the rigours of use in the most usual and unsuitable of places and still put up one hell of a resistance when I've come to take off the tiles they are holding.
 
Regardless if using fastflex the tiles will come down, fast flex is only to help aid with a small amount of movement/flex. It is not something you can put on a moving object like a door .I will re-phrase that, YES fastflex WILL STICK to the door, but WILL NOT cope with the door opening and shutting against the jam intermittently

I think we'll have to disagree on this one JC - if for no other reason than I think you and I are looking at it from different directions.

You are correct in saying that Fastflex is not designed nor intended to take up lots of flex in the substrate but it is supposed to be able to withstand vibration as is found in suspended wooden floors.

So if BlueBaron used a really solid 'inflexable' door, for example an oak door (no I wouldn't be inclined to cover up an oak door either but, it ain't our door to judge) any movement in the substrate, ie. the door, would be restricted to vibration provided the door is opened and closed with care. After all, if BB is prepared to spend out on an oak door he may also choose to buy a good quality door closer that took over the operation of closing the door under hydraulics.

Where as I think you were considering using an 'eggbox' door from B&Q which will flap about all over the place especially when slammed about or kicked by the smaller members of our species.

Over the years I have constantly been amazed at the ability of both Fastflex and many decent silicones, come to that, to withstand the rigours of use in the most usual and unsuitable of places and still put up one hell of a resistance when I've come to take off the tiles they are holding.

i think you are correct Paul, we will have to agree to disagree, or we could go on and on with this debate although i would agree to a certain extent that silicon would probably last longer under normal conditions and every day to day usage of a door, But 1 factor you missed out on, the door closing /slamming into the jam, means its the tiles being hit not the door ;)
 
I bet if you fixed them with a grab adhesive,,, "Sticks Like Sh*t" or similar, they'd "never" fall off,,, whadya think guys??
 
I bet if you fixed them with a grab adhesive,,, "Sticks Like Sh*t" or similar, they'd "never" fall off,,, whadya think guys??

think they would come off or break, no flexibility whatsoever in grab adhesive, you gotta remember, the door will be moving, grab adhesive is for fixing things solidly, that will not move, i.e skirting boards, architrave etc etc
 
Thanks for the repiles guys,

speaking to the guy in the tile shop he showed me the display 'doors' which are bashed against each other all day. He said they are 12.5mm mdf with the tiles hot glued/silicones on.

Maybe this is the way to go?
 
But 1 factor you missed out on, the door closing /slamming into the jam, means its the tiles being hit not the door ;)

Not if the door is hung to open outwards and so the slammer is on the other side of the door to the tiles. BUT...............

............then the tiles on the hinge side of the door would need to have a helluva gap between them and the tiles that are where the architrave should be to allow for the swing/compression when the door is opened.
 
hi paul,yes they were grouted flexible i guess.

Good point about the gap, the tiles i have are 1cm thick, i guess around 15mm should be enough to allow for the tile to swing into the gap?

If i am tiling the whole wall would MDF or 125mm plaserboard be best for the weight? On MDF i could hot glue all the tiles door and wall?
 
Would anyone argue that using Hot Glue/Silicone on a homemade MDF door would be a bad way to go?
 

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