toggle fixings for drywall - weight

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Just checking that I'm choosing the right fixing. I'm hanging some of those stainless kitchen storage rails Ikea sell, designed to hang tools like colanders, sieves & whisks etc. They also sell matching 'wall organisers' http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/...ndtal-container-stainless-steel-art-90226698/ to keep things like bottles and so on. I imagine that a single pole, loaded with a couple of these organisers, fully loaded with as many as 6 full litre bottles could weigh as much as 7 or 8 kilos.
Will it be OK to install the poles using toggle fixings - the wall behind the dry wall appears to be concrete and although it'd be bomb-proof to drill into the concrete to install a long-reach fixing, it does seem a bit like over-kill! Each rail has a plate at each end, with 2 screw holes apiece, about 50mm apart. http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/...s/grundtal-rail-stainless-steel-art-20213538/
 
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Is there a decent cavity behind the plaster board (drywall) ? can you poke a thin probe into the cavity and measure.This will decide the best fittings.

Fitted a few grundtal rails as towel rails,not overly impressed i thought they would be more solid but ok for towels.

in their fitting pdf the very last picture shows the rail with a center (additional) bracket,i would use the 3 bracket system for your intended weights but limit the weight to 6 kgs.

Not sure if the 800 long rail kit comes with 3 brackets But buy two 400 long rail kit's and use the joiner.

ikea,my favourite shop :LOL:
 
As said. The toggle fixings might bare the load fine but the plasterboard might not. If you're can fix into the mason behind it (if there is any) or into the studwork these are far better solutions.

Plywood backing pattress could be added but it's a long winded destructive job for what it is you're putting up.
 
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Toggle fixings just won't carry weight. If the plasterboard is decent (i.e. dry, 12mm thick, undamaged, in a dry environment) you can often carry reasonable weights using Rawl Intersets (or "umbrella" fixings - also sold by Spit and Fischer, et al) but they will only work where the plasterboard is bone dry and never likely to get wet - so not kitchens or bathrooms. As others have said, better to find the studs and fix into those, or failing that cut-out a section of plasterboard, cut and fix a 12mm plywood pattress between two studs, fix the cut-out PB back in place (drywall screws) and fill/sand the surface. That way you can carry lots more weight
 

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So what. There's a world of difference between a professional installation in a new build with corrugated steel and where the loadings have been quantified by a structural or ductwork engineer and a DIY installation in an existing kitchen wall made-up of unknown plasterboard materials. The point was that it's the PLASTERBOARD which is likely to fail
 
So what. There's a world of difference between a professional installation in a new build with corrugated steel and where the loadings have been quantified by a structural or ductwork engineer and a DIY installation in an existing kitchen wall made-up of unknown plasterboard materials. The point was that it's the PLASTERBOARD which is likely to fail

Calm down mate, no one's trying to take your glory. Just pointing out it's not the toggle that won't take the weight. You should have worded your original statement more inline with this.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, chums! Actually, I've just had a thought which is this... the kitchen was fitted out as part of the original new build, which took place in 2013 and the wall in in question has two cabinets fitted, either side of the cooker extractor hood - I will have a good hard look at the way the cabinets were fitted and from there, I'll be able to draw conclusions on the best way to put up the rails. I think I was asking about toggle bolts before 100% engaging brain!!
 

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