Toilet flush replacement

[bracknelldiy]

I need to replace the flush on a toilet (close coupled). I bought a fluid master dual flush https://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmas...-2-button-cable-dual-flush-bottom-inlet/58353 which I've used before on other toilets in the house. Albeit its been a small number of years since I last did this.

The existing arrangement has a foam (?) washer that sits on the toilet side, which the outlet locking nut sits on to. That washer is knackered, and may be the source of the leak between the cistern and the toilet that we were having.

This is not included in the fluidmaster flush (and inlet valve) kit. The outlet hole and inlet hole are 2.5" btw.

What do I need to replace the washer ? Also a concern I have is that the diameter of the locking nut on the new flush is smaller than that on the existing arrangement, and also deeper. So not sure how well it will sit on a replacement washer.

Feels like I'm missing something here.

 

[denso13]

Close Coupling Doughnut Washer

www.toolstation.com

 

[Wayners]

Wickes sell at least 2 sizes you can look at. Some are rubber and some are foam. I've always bought a couple of different ones if unsure then take back one if unopened. Cheap enough to buy so not an issue buying a few.

Just has to work and don't crush it flat as I've seen some that have been. People over clamp..There is no water pressure so it just needs to seal.

Just find one that looks good enough and use. All based on nut size and toilet hole size

 

[bracknelldiy]

Fully aware its a cistern. However mine likes to identify as a tank, and who am I to deny it ?

 

[bracknelldiy]

Wickes sell at least 2 sizes you can look at. Some are rubber and some are foam. I've always bought a couple of different ones if unsure then take back one if unopened. Cheap enough to buy so not an issue buying a few.

Just has to work and don't crush it flat as I've seen some that have been. People over clamp..There is no water pressure so it just needs to seal.

Just find one that looks good enough and use. All based on nut size and toilet hole size

Thanks. Having looked though ("Cistern Washer") they only have 2" and 1 1/2", and the outlet / inlet is 2 1/2 inch. Umm.

I'll keep looking to see if I can find a suitable size one.

 

[Wayners]

This size?

Armitage Shanks Ideal Standard Rubber Doughnut Close Coupling Washer E

Used in Most Ideal Standard and Armitage Shanks ranges;Washer for Close Coupled Pans and Cisterns;110mm OD, 80mm Inside, 15mm Thickness;See listing B00JBHT4WS for the coupling plate if needed Used in Most Ideal Standard and Armitage Shanks ranges Washer for Close Coupled Pans and Cisterns 110mm...

www.theonestopbathroomshop.co.uk

 

[bracknelldiy]

@Wayners thanks for that. I had actually gone to a plumbing shop since I originally posted, and they have in fact sold me a couple that won't do the job. However, your post has shown me the light. and although that is not the right size for the job, it made me realise that I was misunderstanding the sizing (2" coupling washer is for a 2" outlet thread for example, not a 2" flaming outlet. So anyway, a trip to Wickes got me an appropriate sized donought washer, and I have a water tight seal between the cistern and the toilet.

I do still have a problem with the connection of the inlet pipe to to the new inlet valve I've fitted - its leaking on first fitting - but that is an entirely different issue.

 

[Wayners]

Brass thread on inlet fitting that has a fiber washer couplers? Is that where it leaks?
Plastic inlet threads I avoid as can be problematic when connecting

 

[bracknelldiy]

Its a plastic shank inlet valve. As was the one I removed. The inlet pipe has a plastic push fitting onto the copper, a washer (doesn't look like fibre to me), and a brass nut. So the threading is brass onto plastic, as the last one was. Its also bloody awkward positioning in that you can't get your fingers all the way around the shank - as its too close to the toilet - so really difficult/impossible to get PTFE tape round it. Though judging by the amount of water that 'isses out, the problem might be a bit more than that.

I might look to get the plumber round to finish the job. There is a limit to my patience and thirst for gaining new skills and knowledge.

EDIT: the point about avoiding plastic shanked inlet valves is an interesting one. I've seen you can get brass shanked, but it didn't occur to me (mind you, I bought a job lot combined flush and inlet valve package).

 

[Wayners]

Just go buy a brass thread inlet.
Swap. Won't take 10 mins all being well.
Plastic works okay with a plastic connector like you get with push fit but that's it.

 

[bracknelldiy]

@Wayners thanks for your assistance. I have for now refitted the prior inlet valve as it was functional: I was changing it because I was fixing the other problems (cistern-toilet interface, knackered syphon valve). Although it is plastic shank, it has gone back together easy peasy. So I now have a functioning toilet with no leaks, and a flush valve that doesn't (we hope) 'stick' and leave water 'issing into the pan.

Once the other inlet valve gives up (its old, I've had it out and cleaned it a few times) then I'll try again to replace it, and will remember the advice to use a brass shanked valve. I also have a suspicion that an issue was the flush valve body being too wide and pressing against the back of the cistern etc. I need a different style more like the that is back in.

 

[Wayners]

I normally swap everything inside cistern vs just the inlet or syphon. For the cost might as well. Then place the cistern on a bucket and fill with water. If all good after an hour or so with no leaks over fill to check it has a functioning overflow. If all good fit back on toilet.