? topping up with inhibitor

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About 5 yrs ago I had my ch system power flushed and corrosion inhibitor added. Prior to this I had to bleed 2 or 3 of the upstairs radiators on almost a daily basis when heating was on. Since power flush I have not had to do this at all. Would the system benefit from a top up of inhibitor? If so and I tip a bottle of it into the f&e tank will it find its own way down into the system or should I drain off some water first before adding it?
 
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Probably best to tie up the ball cock and drain enough first that the inhibitor ends up in the system.
I'd probably drain the tank, only just, then add the inhibitor, drain until that is only just out of the tank, then follow it with water and a bit more draining to ensure it got into the loop.
However I'm not sure you'll need a top up unless you have some leakage, but over dosing isn't a big issue.
 
F&E tanks often have quite a bit of mud and drowned spiders in them, so turn off the supply, bale it out into a bucket, and wipe it round with a sponge and bleach.

Otherwise all the dirt would be liable to run down into your system.

If there is not already a close-fitting lid and insulating jacket, fit one.
 
Bung the cold feed outlet when cleaning the F&E cistern. Fernox does not lose it's efficacy over time but dilution will reduce it's effectiveness so unless you've removed rads for decoration or have a leak you'll be ok.
 
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but over dosing isn't a big issue.

I’d disagree with that.

OP if the system hasn’t been drained and you don’t have a leak you shouldn’t “top it up”
As vulcan points out, inhibitors can be diluted but they don’t stop working. You’ve had your system professionally cleaned and set up, you say yourself since then no problems. I’d leave it alone if I were you.
 
Bit like energy companies saying your house can never be too bright or warm
Not quite sure what you're getting at as you're being very oblique. Better if you just type what you mean.

Presumably you're suggesting that your opinion is that it is a big issue due to the cost. My view is perhaps if you're on a shoe string budget it would be a big issue, but for peace of mind sometimes it's worth a tenner and then forget about it. But I think that's the OP's decision to make.
 
some parts of the inhibitors ability to protect the system do decrease with time, This is more prevalent with open vented systems where the effects of anti fungal agents only last 2 to 3 years. The best way to determine if a system needs any further dosing is to use the inhibitor manufacturer's test kit.
 
Not quite sure what you're getting at as you're being very oblique. Better if you just type what you mean.

Presumably you're suggesting that your opinion is that it is a big issue due to the cost. My view is perhaps if you're on a shoe string budget it would be a big issue, but for peace of mind sometimes it's worth a tenner and then forget about it. But I think that's the OP's decision to make.

I’m not on a shoe string budget no and nor are my jobs.

My point was the manufacturer is hardly likely to suggest that you don’t need their product. Is that clear enough?
 
My point was the manufacturer is hardly likely to suggest that you don’t need their product. Is that clear enough?
Not really clear at all, you said you thought it was a big issue to put extra in, that's not really a big issue for the op
 
Sorry I have not thanked you all for replies but have not been too well since posting question. After reading all answers I will check if tank needs a clean out and if so will empty into bucket and after tank clean will 'top up' with some inhibitor. I notice there is for and against this but as a non plumbing and heating expert will err on the side of caution. Thanks again everybody.
 
I havnt used inhibitors for years.
They are not necessary.

Adding chemicals to a heating system doesn’t resolve the problem it may mask it, it may not.
Indeed.I have yet to be persuaded of there effectiveness.
 

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