Towel Rad Wiring

gti

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Hello

Is this an acceptable way of wiring up a towel radiator? The reason im asking is, ive just bought the house and it passed the checks, ive just had the consumer unit replaced with a new one as the old was wired fuses :eek: . But before I have the bathroom retiled ect I just wanted to double check its ok to leave this way or does it need changing?
It works fine and looks ok but I just wanted to check on the regs side of things.


TowelRad.jpg


Thanks

Trev
 
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I assume the crimp is inside the FCU box?
Is the CPD in the consumer unit 20amp or less?
Is the circuit RCD protected?
Are all of the other electric circuits in the bathroom RCD protected or is there supplementary bonding?

If so you should be OK as the "checks" and the CU replacement will (should/must) have been signed by a competent electrician who carries the can for safety and compliance.
 
You want to have the feed straight into the input terminals of the FCU, then the live from the load terminals of that going to the common of the pullcord, then the switchwire returning from L1 of the switch sleeved red and crimped to the live out to the heating element, and then the neutral from the heating element to the neutral load terminal on FCU

EDIT: the reason its been done like that, is presumably so that the neon on the FCU goes on an off with the pullcord, but it just doesn't sit right with me, I don't like it, and would regard it as bad pratice (although others might disagree)
 
Thanks for the replys guys.

Yeah the crimp is in the box.
Yes the fuse box has a mcb for the bathroom rated at 20amp and its on a split load board with an RCD covering it. When the spark who replaced the old wire fuse board he upgraded the bonding as that was too small. There was already sup bonding in the bathroom which the spark checked with the board was done. Im guessing it was fitted when the towel rad was done.

Adam_151

I do agree with what your saying, and im guessing like you say that was the reason it was done that way. When i get the downlighters done in the kitchen ill ask the spark to have a look at it then.

Thanks again for the help guys.

Trev
 
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gti

You state you have just bought the house and had the consumer unit replaced and describe it as a Split-load type. Would that be a Dual RCD Split-load type or a Single RCD Split-load type...i.e are ALL the circuits in it protected by RCDs or only some of them ?
 
You want to have the feed straight into the input terminals of the FCU, then the live from the load terminals of that going to the common of the pullcord, then the switchwire returning from L1 of the switch sleeved red and crimped to the live out to the heating element, and then the neutral from the heating element to the neutral load terminal on FCU
Why have the pullcord at all?
 
gti

You state you have just bought the house and had the consumer unit replaced and describe it as a Split-load type.

Its a dual RCD one, so all circuits are covered by one RCD.

ban-all-sheds said:
Why have the pullcord at all?

Can you swap it to a SFCU, the current FCU is in Zone 3? If thats the case would there not be a risk of electric shock? it does look a little tatty having two pull switches (one for lights/fan one for heater) in the bathroom.


Ive read quite a few times on here that most people dont like downlighters, is there any reason? Current usage ect?

Thanks again

Trev
 
Can you swap it to a SFCU, the current FCU is in Zone 3? If thats the case would there not be a risk of electric shock?
Zone 3 no longer exists. The risk of shock is no different with a switched or unswitched FCU. The risk is tiny or nonexistent anyway.

Ive read quite a few times on here that most people dont like downlighters, is there any reason? Current usage ect?
It's not a question of liking them. They are simply unsuitable for illuminating a room.

They use vast amounts of energy to create spots of light on the floor, with the inevitable shadows all over the place.
The holes created in the ceiling to fit them allow sound and moisture to pass through.
You can't fit insulation over them, so there is a significant heat loss through the ceiling.
They get exceptionally hot, which can lead to the fitting/transformer/wiring being damaged.

The lamps which fit in them were originally designed for display lighting - in cabinets, or for illuminating specific items.
They are useless at illuminating a whole room because they were never designed for that purpose.
 
Can you swap it to a SFCU, the current FCU is in Zone 3? If thats the case would there not be a risk of electric shock?
Zone 3 no longer exists. The risk of shock is no different with a switched or unswitched FCU. The risk is tiny or nonexistent anyway.

Ive read quite a few times on here that most people dont like downlighters, is there any reason? Current usage ect?
It's not a question of liking them. They are simply unsuitable for illuminating a room.

They use vast amounts of energy to create spots of light on the floor, with the inevitable shadows all over the place.
The holes created in the ceiling to fit them allow sound and moisture to pass through.
You can't fit insulation over them, so there is a significant heat loss through the ceiling.
They get exceptionally hot, which can lead to the fitting/transformer/wiring being damaged.

The lamps which fit in them were originally designed for display lighting - in cabinets, or for illuminating specific items.
They are useless at illuminating a whole room because they were never designed for that purpose.

Thanks for the reply flameport, I see what BAS means now.

Thanks again.

Trev
 

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