Tractor mower totally dead, even when we try to jumpstart

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I hope you'll allow this in the cars section...

Our tractor mower was virtually flat after the winter... a flicker but it wouldn't start. We jumped it 2 weeks ago from our car and it ran fine but today, nothing. We connected the jump leads and not so much as a flicker of lights on the dashboard.

I'm not sure if that indicates the battery is dead or something else - I've jumped a car with totally shot battery in the past so am worried something else could be the issue but no idea what.
We did notice the car batter terminals seemed covered in a thin white layer (a bit like galvanised zinc) which were not there last time (we think). The car is only a couple of years old and just serviced, I do recall it's possible for corrosion to block conduction but we might be chasing a red herring here and it was always like that!

Where should I start looking? To summarise, we used the same jump-leads from the same car many times in the last few months, and on the same lawnmower 2 weeks ago, never with issues.

Thanks!
 
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does the tractor mower have a 12v battery ?? If so it's either fuel, air or spark at a guess
 
Yeah, just like a small car battery. I don't think it can be fuel because no light comes on when you turn the key. The engine doesn't turn over, there is not the slightest sound or activity.
I suppose I was guessing the ignition itself could be faulty (mechanism or the starter), or that somehow the jump-start isn't working(?)
 
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Some ride ons have a fuse on the circuit board beneath the dash - which machine do you have?
Also, check the ignition switch connections.
You should get the thing going by bridging the large solenoid connections......watch the spark!
John :)
P.S they are 12v, Eddie.
J.
 
Countax C300H, not particularly new but very good. Hadn't thought of that... Could jumpstarting from a car have been a bit OTT?
 
Lovely bit of kit.....should have the Honda V twin motor with the twin choke Nikki carb?
There's no reason for a jump start to damage anything, so long as you got the polarity correct :eek:
You should see an engine hours counter - which changes to a rev counter - with the ignition on.
If you don't, check the dashboard for burns / fuses and the same goes for the ignition switch.
There's a chance that bypassing the solenoid to start up could damage the charging system, so if you do, have the ignition switched on.
Try connecting a battery charger - with small clips - and see if the dash comes to life.
John :)
 
I found what seems to be a correct manual describing 3 fuses, which is what we have. One looked like it might have blown but need to double check. Swapping fuses round did no good but then if the battery is flat as well that could mask things so I think I'd rather do that with a charger than jump leads!

It's all pretty simple as far as I can tell, I just wish I wasn't busy and the lawn didn't desperately need cutting!
 
Some ride ons have a fuse on the circuit board beneath the dash - which machine do you have?
Also, check the ignition switch connections.
You should get the thing going by bridging the large solenoid connections......watch the spark!
John :)
P.S they are 12v, Eddie.
J.

tap tap.. I was waiting :LOL:
 
I have a Countax which is sometime hesitant to start, this is due to a poor earth connection between the starter motor and the engine, you some times get a shower of sparks from it when you try to start it but it always starts eventually so I haven't done anything about it yet.

Do charge the battery at least once during the winter, I keep forgetting to do mine and it still starts although not very energetically, if you keep not doing it eventually the battery will fail.

Peter
 
Ah hah - I think it's solved!

I was re-checking the fuses to be totally sure and had left the ignition on. I noticed as I put one of the fuses back that there was a brief flick of light and a click. I pulled it out and reinserted it more carefully and this time it flickered a couple of times.

It seems the connection the fuse is making in the box is simply not very good. I don't think the box itself has a loose wire 'cos wiggling it did nothing, but wiggling the fuse in the box did. I got it in a position the ignition remained on and the darn thing started so the battery was fine anyway!

I'm wondering if the fix here is just some WD40, or the fuse itself could've corroded slightly. I figure I might just replace the fuses anyway for the little it'd cost.
 
Have a look at the contacts on the fuse and the box, could be they are corroded, A good clean might do the trick.

Peter
 
Anyway major problem averted and however simple, it's nice to have figured it out.

Thanks for the help all.
 
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