Treadmill tripping electrics

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Have been given a almost brand new treadmill (great!), only problem is it trips the electrics/blows the plug fuse, even before starting the thing up. I'm pushing my electronics GCSE to the max here and wouldn't mind a second opinion before I buy or even make a DIY DC motor controller or binning the thing full stop.

So my initial thought was to isolate the cause of the short so I tried three different power leads (kettle type), all three resulted in the electrics tripping. Next I disconnected the motor - no luck, then I disconnected the motor controller board - still shorting. At this point all we have is the electrical inlet, wired inline to what appears to be a overload reset button, then a switch. When I put the multimeter across the positive and negative terminal there appears to be a direct short when the switch is opened - certainly no or very little resistance is registered. This seems odd to me, but it doesn't look like anyone has messed with this. What I find odd is the fact that there is only one wire which links the 230V inlet to the board (yellow cable), this makes me think they must ground through the frame, although surely that wouldn't work with 230V.

Have attached a couple of pictures so help illustrate what I'm saying. My initial thoughts are go down the DC motor controller route, even making one as there are a few guides out there, but it would be nice to keep the display and controls which I'd lose with this. Have you come across anything similar before or got any suggestions?


 
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There is no positive and negative on 240 volt AC mains. You mean live and neutral I presume. Disconnect the yellow wire, it's a push on terminal. Measure again. If still short circuit check the switch and reset button.
 
Please show the rest of the connections in there.

It looks as if someone has tampered with the wiring, as what is there cannot be correct.
 
It looks like live and neutral are connected directly across the switch? :confused:


At a guess, that black wire shouldnt be going where its going, it should be connected somewhere else.
 
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It looks like live and neutral are connected directly across the switch? :confused:
If the switch has a neon then a neutral would be needed

At a guess, that black wire shouldnt be going where its going, it should be connected somewhere else.
I agree, in the pictures there is no sign of a neutral from the silver panel to the rest of the machine. Also the black to the switch is longer than it needs to be ( compared to the tidy way the reds are fitted ).

The switch panel looks like a retro fitted item, something that may not be part of the original machine.
 
its sounds like it could be an easy fix.

post a pic of the front of the switches


there is no neutral (black wire) going to the motor controller.
 
Thanks to everyone for the responses, some valuable information...and you've confirmed there have may be some 'alterations' to the wiring which is useful.

I'll post some more pictures later when I get home.

Regards
Rich
 
Sorry for the delays, more pictures attached. The unattached brown and yellow wires are from the display/control up top. There is also a multi pin connector that slots in at the bottom right of the board.

I believe what appear to be connectors above the cap and to the left of the fuse is a bridge rectifier, it's soldered into the board as you can see.

Any help appreciated.

 
L1 and L2 pins are the AC feeds into the rectifier.

The yellow cable appears to be connected to L1 by the traces on the PCB. No idea if thats supposed to goto the switch, or if its supposed to go elsewhere.

I would expect the neutral from the power inlet to goto the L2 terminal?

Does the black wire at the switch reach the L2 terminal instead?
 

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