Trianco Oil Fired Boiler

If there is water in bottom tray its new boiler time dont spend a penny on this one.
Your repair guy is pulling your pants down getting cash of you now and when you come down to find water everywhere anjd need a new one

Thanks for this but I think its the automatic air vent thats leaking...

Weve had a slow leak under the house for a while and have had to top up the water to the radiators occasionally but sometimes topped them up a little too high. I think the combination of the expansion vessel being full of water and the excess pressure might be pushing the water out of the air vent. Does that sound too good to be true?

Well one saving grace is that the boiler is in its own outhouse so any leak will not cause too much damage before its discovered.
 
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The expansion vessel being full of watter? Nay, that will never do. The EV is split into two halves, with a rubber diaphragm between them. There's CH water on one side, and air at about 10 psi on the other.
If you press the car tyre type valve on the top of the EV and water hits you in the eye, then: 1) You've ruined your make up 2) The EV has had it and it needs a new one.
Clubber John :)
 
The expansion vessel being full of watter? Nay, that will never do. The EV is split into two halves, with a rubber diaphragm between them. There's CH water on one side, and air at about 10 psi on the other.
If you press the car tyre type valve on the top of the EV and water hits you in the eye, then: 1) You've ruined your make up 2) The EV has had it and it needs a new one.
Clubber John :)

Its full of water and jets out of the valve without me even pressing it.

The engineer explained to me that it needed replaced but he said that it was better not to replace it since there was water leaking but hopefully its the automatic air vent thats been the cause of the leaks. It certainly looks that way.

I hadnt heard of the automatic air vent until tonight and I googled it to find out how it works... clever little thing..with a float and all
 
The EV is only £45 from heating-parts so thats for nowt......the AAV's are usually about a tenner. I haven't replaced a Trianco one, but have done a few Worcesters.....which are a s*d to fit. I use a strap wrench for car oil filters to unscrew these.
John :)
 
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Hi Handychick

If the burner is running on and on with no lock out it's likely to be the control box (could also be photocell) - has any water dripped onto this?
Most oil fellas will carry this kit with them so easy to test and replace.
I can't picture this boiler (unless it's the one where the AAV looks like small milk pan, if it is it's an obsolete part)

Plastic pump coupling should've been replaced with the pump (it comes in the box with it along with new coil). Get the boiler water tight, replace the EV and AAV.

The most important part of the service is the combustion test and a kit to measure this isn't cheap...you'll need to factor that in if you're going down the servicing route.
 
If the plastic coupling is fine, as said above you have to look at photocell, solenoid coil or control box, if anyone of theses components is faulty they can cause the burner to purge forever without making an attempt to fire. If you call an engineer he should have spares and be able to find the fault quite easily. Sometime the best way of finding the problem is to just replace the suspect component as they can be replaced quite easily and quickly :D
 
Hey guys,

Back in my cold house now... brr..

Yeah I took the control box off, broke the tamper proof seal and had a look at the components. It looks ok and even smells ok but obviously I would need to get in about it with a meter to tell properly, or swap in a known serviceable spare...
Its dry though. Well and truly dry and no evidence of any blown components...


hey ho... I had another go at starting it tonight but no dice... same deal as before.

So I watched "the hangover" on the sofa under the duvet.... wow what a movie... so cool!

Thanks for all the help, I really do appreciate. Im kinda resigned to the idea that Im gonna need to wait till the guys can come out and sort it now.

No way im payin an emergency callout fee as the weather isnt too chilly at the mo..

I will post the outcome on this thread wrt the engineers visit.. who knows it may help another lost soul somewhere down the line in a search.

once again, thanks all...

Paula.
 
Only thing I can suggest, bar getting someone out, is to check connections on photocell at the control box, check photocell with a meter and a torch and make sure photocell is clean and facing towards the flame with no obstructions.
 
I did clean the face of the photocell as it was a bit grimed up but it didnt make any difference. Was tempted to go over the control unit solder joints with my soldering iron to check for a dry joint but the bottle of wine won out...

Wouldnt the boiler lockout if the photocell wasnt detecting a flame?(but still try to light in the first place)?

not trying to make holes in your recommendation just trying to understand things better..

P
 
It's quite common for the photocell to cause the boiler to run without locking out or firing up (I just stick a new one on to test whether it's this or the control box) - I don't fault find to component level, I guess it holds a relay open in the control box.

What control box is it? BHO64,Satronic?

What photocell?
 
Hi casius,

Im not too sure to be honest. It doesnt seem to be clearly branded. Are there any pics around that I could compare to?
 
If you look at heating-parts.co.uk there are plenty of pics to make a comparison with yours......photocells and coils aren't that expensive, and always worth having in as spares if you buy one unnecessarily.
John :)
 
Hi there,

I had a look but it doesnt seem to have many of the electronic parts on there for the Trianco Eurostar
 
Good Morning :)
The parts for your burner won't be specific to the name Eurostar...
For example, the pump will likely be a Danfoss BFP, or a Suntec, or a Delta, Riello etc. There will be names / numbers on the side, and the same applies to the control box, and photocell and most of the other bits.
So with this information to hand, the parts you need can be recognised.
The burner will have its own identification on it too - usually a small plate stuck or rivetted on.
You sure don't want to be beaten by this one...but a good OFTEC person will usually be able to identify the bits from experience - its up to you really how far you want to go.
Be lucky! John :)
 
Hi Paula, any luck on identifing parts or getting someone in? Must be getting chilly by now ;)
 

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