trying to decide about front door

[dormermike]

Hi,

Currently redecorating our hall and trying to decide whether to replace what appears to be the original exterior wooden door. At present there is a PVC door outside this one, which we are going to remove to reinstate the porch area.

The wooden door will be draughty - is there much I can do about that?

Also I guess security won't be v good, or is this door solid?

Sorry, don't know much about front doors but this one seems quite nice.

Thanks.
Mike

Untitled

• dormermike
• 1 Jul 2012
• 1

Untitled

• dormermike
• 1 Jul 2012
• 1

 

[dormermike]

Forgot to mention the lead window doesnt appear to be very solid hence security question.

Wondering if a security pane could be put behind it?

Any thoughts appreciated, even if it is "bin it!'

Cheers

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The wooden door will be draughty - is there much I can do about that?

If, and I do emphasise if, the door edges are good and the gaps between the frame and the door aren't too large it should be possible to rout grooves around three sides and fit weather seals such as Aquamac 21. The bottom of the door can be dealt with by adding a brush strip and/or a threshold weather seal

Also I guess security won't be v good, or is this door solid?

No, it won't - and additionally old lead glazing can tend to be a bit sort of porous - to wind and rain. I think you need to look into adding some sort of secondary glazing around it, possibly a single layer of laminated in a lightweight frame either side of the door and the transom light (fanlight) above it

Even when you've done this you're probably still going to lose a heck of a lot of heat whenever you open that door in winter. That's probably half the reason the extra door was installed to start with. Me? I'd leave the original door, rip out the PVCu cr*p and make-up a fully glazed door and frame to replace it

 

[crank39]

Timber wise the door looks solid, its the glass thats your weak point here, traditional lead is all well and good but a scum bag can easily just pop one and slip his arm through and open your yale lock.

So what i would do, you may already have this butif not i would fit a BS approved yale lock, one that can be double locked when you exit the house, i'd also fit a BS approved deadock below this, i see something in the photos but can't make it out, if its you make it your external door your insurance company will probably stipulate that it has BS locks fitted.

As for draught proofing, so long as the door and frame are in sound condition then i'd just be inclined to fit these.....

http://www.screwfix.com/p/heavy-duty-around-door-strips-brass-effect-1025mm-pack-of-5/97820

And for the bottom...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-draught-excluder-gold-anodised-914mm/31020

 

[dormermike]

Some good ideas there, many thanks.

I really want to have the porch back, so a outer door is a no-go.

I think in reality i may end up replacing the door - will get some proper quotes. Everest quoted £3k just for a door excl. fitting! That was part of a package too, having front windows replaced. Pretty sure i can get it cheaper than that.. i hope.

 

[crank39]

3k

PMSL at that, where do they dream these prices up from

 

[dormermike]

Just to update on this, i had a local joiner / door maker come and take a look.

He said the frame and door are fine, not rotten and still all solid so dont need replacing. He said the gap on the door and frame is due to someone in the past planing off the lock side of the door rather than the hinge side.

He suggested taking the door away and packing the hinge side to make it straight and also advise replacing the leaded window with a DG unit (have had a seperate quote of £230 to convert the leaded window to a triple glazed unit including fitting.

Quoted £150 for taking the door away, packing and rehanging.

The locks fitted are the "best you can get" apparently, 5 gate (?) and deadlocking, so no need to change those.

Any thoughts on this appreciated please.. i am in a quandry about spending 230+150=£380 on the door (and finishing still needed) or just getting a new door and hanging into existing frame.

Cheers.

 

[TheVictorian]

I like the design/period of the old door and personally would do everything I could to preserve it.

 

[dormermike]

Thanks. I agree, just a bit nervous as it will be the main/only front door.

I guess i am just concerned that it will be somehow less secure and heat efficient than a modern solid wood door - ?! But i guess wood is wood right?

What wood would it likely be? I am considering getting a heat gun and stripping all the paint off before repainting, instead of sanding + painting.

Cheers.

 

[dormermike]

So with a triple glazed window instead of lead, is there any reason why this door wouldnt be as strong as a modern oak/hard wood door? I am thinking of brute force such as kicking against the smaller panels at the bottom.

Whats this one likely to be made of, my wife reckons beech?

Thanks

 

[masona]

I like the design/period of the old door and personally would do everything I could to preserve it.

It's a beautiful door with real stained glass which is now very expensive and break my heart when people dump them, I repair/altered stained glass windows as a hobby, what you can do which I have done on my front door (see my album) you have have the stained glass made slightly smaller and put it inside the double glazed unit, the best of both world If the rebate is not deep enough, the door rebate can be modify or widen with internal frame etc

You can do the same as above fanlight as well, with the toughen double glazed unit plus lead internal window, will be the best security window you could have

Ps: A good solid wooden door will outlive any upvc doors and the security are far better

 

[dormermike]

I like the design/period of the old door and personally would do everything I could to preserve it.

It's a beautiful door with real stained glass which is now very expensive and break my heart when people dump them, I repair/altered stained glass windows as a hobby, what you can do which I have done on my front door (see my album) you have have the stained glass made slightly smaller and put it inside the double glazed unit, the best of both world If the rebate is not deep enough, the door rebate can be modify or widen with internal frame etc

You can do the same as above fanlight as well, with the toughen double glazed unit plus lead internal window, will be the best security window you could have

Ps: A good solid wooden door will outlive any upvc doors and the security are far better

Thank you - you have helped me make my mind up and save a door in the process

Yes good point about the fanlight, that will need doing too.

Do you know what wood it is likely to be? Just curious.

Thanks again.

 

[JohnD]

for draughtstripping, I strongly recommend the "furry" strip (also called brush pile or smoke strip)

it squashes down to fit irregular gaps, it last longer than the rubbery stuff, and far longer than foam, and does not look unsighly like those ugly nail-in strips. If you put it on the frame it will not be so noticable as on the edge of the door.

If the leaded panel is original to the door, it would be a shame to lose it. A secondary pane of 6mm float, or, better, of laminate, will cut down sound and heat passing through, and will be more secure.

 

[masona]

Do you know what wood it is likely to be? Just curious

Not without looking at the bare wood on the top or bottom of the door, however I can tell it's well built looking at the photo, these door with lead light window are getting rare and can easily fetch up to £1000 on the market

 

[JohnD]

it'll be "redwood"

joinery grade softwood.