Tubular heater size?

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Hi
I have been looking at tubular heaters for my wife's shed.. it is 15ft x 10ft and not insulated at the minute.
I'm trying to find out what size/wattage should I be looking at?
Thanks
 
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A large shed that is not insulated will be cold. You might as well put a heater in the garden. What do you hope to achieve?
 
Thanks
She's going to be using it as a craft room/workshop
Basically just need to keep it from going musty/mouldy.
She has a panel heater that she'll be using when she's actually in there.
 
It will be cold.

I strongly advise insulating the ceiling and walls, adding a floor, and draughtproofing the door and windows before throwing money away on electricity.

Some photographs, and measurements of the timber studs depth and gap between them, and we can advise how to do it.
 
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A tubular heater is 60 to 120W
About the same as 2 old light bulbs.
Just about work to stop a small shed from freezing, so might be suiatbke for what you need , but only just.

In an insulated outside office or shed you need at least 1000W (1kW) heater. Best with a thermostat so not on all the time.

Sfk
 
I have some waterpipes in my unheated garage, and have a tubular heater under them (with a separate thermostat set at 5C) which prevents the risk of freezing.

But the garage is insulated and fairly free of draughts.
 
I have some waterpipes in my unheated garage, and have a tubular heater under them (with a separate thermostat set at 5C) which prevents the risk of freezing.

Trace heating, a sort of heated tape - controlled by a stat., will be more economical and sensible.
 
Thanks
She's going to be using it as a craft room/workshop
Basically just need to keep it from going musty/mouldy.
She has a panel heater that she'll be using when she's actually in there.
It's more to do with the stuff she'll keep in there as well as comfort. Low end buildings tend to be damp and mouldy once the heating goes off. Especially relevant with the winter on its way.
 
It will be cold.

I strongly advise insulating the ceiling and walls, adding a floor, and draughtproofing the door and windows before throwing money away on electricity.

Some photographs, and measurements of the timber studs depth and gap between them, and we can advise how to do it.
20221201_172758.jpg
20221201_172805.jpg
20221201_172818.jpg
 
It will be cold.

I strongly advise insulating the ceiling and walls, adding a floor, and draughtproofing the door and windows before throwing money away on electricity.

Some photographs, and measurements of the timber studs depth and gap between them, and we can advise how to do it.
The studs are 45mm deep and the gaps vary but the widest is 560mm

Thanks
 
I don't think you can get mineral wool as thin as that, so I suggest fixing insulation foam boards to the studs to make an inner wall.

Even 25mm thick will improve insulation dramatically. Thicker is better.

Foam is quite fragile, so overboard it with ply or something, which will not be damaged if you knock it.

I don't know how much you want to spend.

You could line the inside surface of the walls with breathable membrane, to prevent water, insects or draughts getting in, before boarding. The pocket of still air will contribute to insulation.

Although you want to draughtproof it, provide enough ventilation at each end, near the ridge, to ventilate out water vapour.

Does it have a floor?
 
Yes , sorry it does have a floor and this raised off the ground on a timber frame
 
Then you can insulate the floor as well, as it is ventilated underneath
 
100% agree about insulating
a further point in the mean time
store delicate stuff up higher as damp hangs low
any plastic boxes open in the house then transferred to the shed if possible should spend a few hours in a much colder place in the house with the lid open to avoid the condensation you will get if warm moist air is trapped in a box
 
I don't think you can get mineral wool as thin as that, so I suggest fixing insulation foam boards to the studs to make an inner wall.

Even 25mm thick will improve insulation dramatically. Thicker is better.

Foam is quite fragile, so overboard it with ply or something, which will not be damaged if you knock it.

I don't know how much you want to spend.

You could line the inside surface of the walls with breathable membrane, to prevent water, insects or draughts getting in, before boarding. The pocket of still air will contribute to insulation.

Although you want to draughtproof it, provide enough ventilation at each end, near the ridge, to ventilate out water vapour.

Does it have a floor?
So would you recommend something like celotex or would polystyrene suffice?
I dont mind the extra cost if the effect is significantly better but if there's not much difference in performance then I'd go for the cheaper option
 

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