TV coax cable for digital

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Is the older non-shielded coax cable adequate for digital freeview?

I've got such a cable running down the wall from the loft to the tv signal socket in the sitting room. The cable was installed when the house was built.

I've got a TFT TV with freeview plugged in and the picture for BBC1 / BBC2 gets a bit pixalated.

Have installed an outside digital aerial with shielded coax as far as the loft where it joins the the non-shielded coax.

Also have a signal booster between the socket and TV.
 
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There is no such thing as unshielded coaxial cable.

If you mean the crappy, 'low loss' stuff you usually find installed in houses, then no, it isn't really suitable for digital TV.
 
There's also no such thing as a digital aerial. There are good ones, poor ones, high gain ones and those being sold by con men/women.
 
Is the older non-shielded coax cable adequate for digital freeview?

I've got such a cable running down the wall from the loft to the tv signal socket in the sitting room. The cable was installed when the house was built.

I've got a TFT TV with freeview plugged in and the picture for BBC1 / BBC2 gets a bit pixalated.

Have installed an outside digital aerial with shielded coax as far as the loft where it joins the the non-shielded coax.

Also have a signal booster between the socket and TV.
Builders use the cheapest rubbish they can get away with. It was barely acceptable 20 years ago. It's woefully out of date now.

Things have moved on. Not only the shift to digital TV but all the other signals now flying around. Cables both pick up and radiate signals. Shielding is one tool to help minimise those effects.

Something else to bear in mind is that cable doesn't last forever. For example, the outer jacket goes brittle after prolonged outdoor exposure. Loose cables rub against the building and wear holes in the jacket that let in water. The copper shielding oxidises. This all has a progressively larger effect and so signal losses mount up over time.

Then there's how a cable is pulled and installed. Common problem include tight bends that acts as frequency filters. In effect, they diminish or even stop certain frequencies reaching the TV.

BBC1 and BBC2 are part of the group of national channels that everyone who can receive Freeview must be able to access. To make this happen, the transmitters are set to give the most power to the BBC and ITV channel groups. If you are losing BBC1 & 2 then I'd expect you to see problems on the other channels in that channel collection (MUX). So that would be BBC3 & 4 at the least. This could be down to cable kinks or it might be a combination of the new aerial and the channel allocations on your local transmitter.

You've probably bought a wideband high-gain aerial. They're the most common type sold. You'd be forgiven for thinking that these pick up everything equally well. But in actual fact all aerials are better at some frequencies and worse at others. If you look at the graph below the black line is the response curve of a typical wideband high-gain aerial. You can see that down at channel 21 it picks up far less signal than it does between channels 51 and 68. If you live in a place where local transmitter has BBC1 & 2 down near channel 21 then your aerial might struggle. Putting a booster on near the TV isn't going to help that. The losses will have already occurred in the cable before the signal gets to the booster.

The best things you can do are getting the aerial aligned for maximum signal quality and then adding a mast-mounted booster/amplifier to help compensate for the cable losses.

To align the aerial, get the help of a friend and use your TV's signal display to check for quality if it has that feature. If not then simple signal strength will have to do. Get on your mobiles. One viewing the TV while the other adjusts the aerial. Bear in mind too that once you have the direction correct then you might find some advantage in adjusting the vertical angle too.

If you can change the old downleads then do it. You'll get more signal at the TV.
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Thanks for the informative postings folks - much appreciated.

I believe my best option is to run some good quality coax down from the aerial on the outside wall and pass it through the wall near to the TV.

I mentioned "unshielded coaxial cable" because the newer cable from the aerial has silver paper under the outer copper braiding where as the older cable in the wall doesn't.


I actually used google maps to align the aerial by getting the angle of the local TV transmitter to my house and using a reference point on a neighbour's house to align to - rather crude method I suppose.

This is the type of aerial I installed by the way

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/outside-D...t=UK_ConElec_TVAerials_RL&hash=item3cd979d6da
 
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I'd be wary of any company that couldn't even spell "aerial".
That "Digital Ariel" is a loft aerial. It's easy to tell because the reflector elements have no support frame and will easily be bent by birds.

The stated gain is "Max Forward Gain = 13.6DBi". That's another cheat because you must subtract 2.1 to get the actual maximum of 11.5dBd. Note that the *minimum* isn't stated. Dependent on your postcode, this could be entirely the wrong type of aerial. If, for example, your signal comes from Rowridge or Crystal Palace. you'll be working at the (unstated) minimum gain of this aerial.

By "silver paper" I assume you mean "aluminium foil". This type may also use a copper-plated steel inner core wire. It's cheap and cheerful with performance to match. It's silly to skimp on such an important part of the installation. You should be using WF100 or equivalent "copper on copper" cable.

See advice here: http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/cable.htm
and http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/freeview_problems.htm
 
Very informative reading folks - thanks again.

So I'm wise to ways of the professionals, what's the best way to pass a coax cable through an external wall so to protect the cable and avoid kinks?

I assume any hole drilled through would need to be angled up over towards the interior wall side so to avoid rain water ingress.
 
Drill out from indoors. A slight angle is a good idea but you should ensure that the cable goes downwards from the hole outside. A "cable straw" is often useful - especially if the cavity has "rockwool" or similar filling.

A hole cover can be fitted.
http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/brick_burst.htm
 
Also have a signal booster between the socket and TV.
The first thing I would suggest you try is move the booster to the loft so that it is before the run of low grade cable.

If that fails I would take the TV up to the loft and try connecting it up there.

Yes the cheap coax is less than ideal both in terms of loss and in terms leakage. Yes if I was installing from scratch nowadays I wouldn't use it but if your amplification is in the right place (as close to the aerial as practical) and you aren't sailing way too close to the wind on signal strength then it shouldn't usually be a massive problem.
 
No-one mentioned the "join" between cables either! - what was it - TV coax connectors, chocolate box or just twisted the conductors together and taped up?

Have installed an outside digital aerial with shielded coax as far as the loft where it joins the the non-shielded coax.
 
The arrangement was

Aerial - cable from aerial in to loft feeding signal booster/hub - cable out of booster down the wall to tv socket - cable from socket to TV.

I've now moved the booster down between the TV socket and TV.

All cable ends are terminated with male / female coax connectors.


By the way,

I'm now aware that are both isolated and non-isolated TV socket types, what does the isolated refer to?
 
Any booster needs to be close to the aerial.
An "isolated" socket has a capacitor to prevent the flow of DC. No good for passing power.
 
The gold "flash" is typically half a micron thick and of no benefit. The cable itself is very thin (high losses) and the screening is poor (typically only 60%) making the cable fairly useless for anything, really.
Better to make your own with the proper cable:
http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/tvplugs.htm
 

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