Twin valve radiator problems!

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Hi everyone,

The pin in my TRV has got stuck and try as I might I can’t loosen it. So I need to replace the TRV... fine.

However, when I went to shut off the valves on the radiator (I do this at work all the time) I realised that ALL the pipes to my radiator are on the same side. I’ve attached a picture if that helps??

Can anyone tell me how to isolate the radiator so I can simply switch out the TRV??? I’ve done hours of googling and all I seem to be able to find is information on how dodgy these types of valves are...

Thanks in advance xx
 
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Some of the heating system needs to be drained down to a sufficient level to exchange that vintage valve.

The valve looks like an oventrop (or similar) reverse angle valve,they are an OK valve and usually a stuck spindle is easily sorted out. Doubt the exact same valve is currently manufactured. Tbh i would drain the system and fit a danfoss ras-c2 angled valve & sensor or a danfoss RAFN 15uk angle valve body & appropriate sensor

the connecting chrome pipe in between the trv & lower connection manifold may need exchanging,having a length of pipe ready in case the original pipe is to short (if purchased from screwfixx) can always be returned :D).

is there an air bleed valve in the other (right) top radiator tapping ?
 
OMG ‘Hot&Cold’ that’s so helpful just to know what it is. It was driving me nuts! Yes there’s an air bleed valve on the other side.

Is that where I can drain it from?
 
Hi everyone,

The pin in my TRV has got stuck and try as I might I can’t loosen it. So I need to replace the TRV... fine.

However, when I went to shut off the valves on the radiator (I do this at work all the time) I realised that ALL the pipes to my radiator are on the same side. I’ve attached a picture if that helps??

Can anyone tell me how to isolate the radiator so I can simply switch out the TRV??? I’ve done hours of googling and all I seem to be able to find is information on how dodgy these types of valves are...

Thanks in advance xx
Does the double-inlet thingy have a way of closing it, eg a Allen key hole ine the end (perhaps under a cover)? If so, you're OK, with the added advantage of only losing a tad of water from the top of the rad. If not you have to drain down, but no different from the conventional piping arrangement. In that case you have to drain to remove the TRV. In principle there could be an additional iso valve on the system side of the TRV, but nobody ever fits one. And if there were, with the more common set-up of TRV at the bottom you would still lose a rad-ful of water.
 
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Oh I see yes thank you!

So what i’m Struggling with is that I can’t see anything anywhere which would allow me to close the double inlet valve... if I could just close it I could drain the rad and then replace the TRV for a better one.

Any suggestion on a way of closing it off to allow me to do that?

Thanks so much everyone, this is massively helpful.

Lisa x
 
So what i’m Struggling with is that I can’t see anything anywhere which would allow me to close the double inlet valve... if I could just close it I could drain the rad and then replace the TRV for a better one.

Any suggestion on a way of closing it off to allow me to do that?
As I said, unless there's something you can turn, the double-inlet fitting doesn't isolate anything. I had a look on the web and couldn't see anything, except when combined with a TRV, which isn't what you've got. I can't think how you would design a double-inlet valve which could turn off both, but there are some clever bits of kit out there, so maybe it's possible.
If not, you need to drain the system elsewhere. Only to below the top of the rad you're working on, but that depends on where in the house it is (what floor) and what other iso valves you have. Obviously you have to close the F/E tank fill valve, if that's your system. Once drained, changing the TRV is straightforward, apart from possibly needing to alter pipe length.
 

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