UPVC frame measuring/fitting and what is deemed "ok" for clearance

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I had my rear windows and a door fitted by a local reputable firm back in March and have had ongoing issues since, enough to warrant the windows and door being replaced and I still have issues.
The reason for this post is mainly to ask another "reputable" fitter what sort of clearance do you give when measuring for a new frame taking into consideration any inner window ledge if that makes sense. I would have thought that the inner frame that is showing is near enough equal all the way round, so on the second refit before they removed the previous fitted frames, I pointed out that the bottom of the frames didnt have much clearance over the inner ledge. I was told its fine, thats allowed just as long as the beading is accessible if the units ever need replacing and then goes and silicons over the said beading, see photos.
I even had them back as I wasnt happy with the silicon finish and they redone it worse, even using silicon along the front edge of the D bead after asking them not to as I prefer it either left as is or use caulk so I can paint/wallpaper up to it. There are many other issues, mostly sorted but I dont want to get in to that just yet. Thanks in advance
 

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Take a picture from outside and also of the whole inner reveal
 

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I have 22mm boards so overall my frames are at least 50mm deep at base.
You seem to have very thin frames , windows should have been made shorter and lifted on a spacer to clear window boards.
 
I have 22mm boards so overall my frames are at least 50mm deep at base.
You seem to have very thin frames , windows should have been made shorter and lifted on a spacer to clear window boards.
exactly what I thought hence the reason why I pointed it out to them and got the reply above. My uncle fitted my front ones years ago with me helping him and I recalled him mentioning that when he was measuring them he noticed the inner boards where a lot higher than the outside ledge so would need the frame height adjusting to accommodate them. As I said many problems with this company, I was let down by my uncle so picked a local reputable firm, what a mistake. This is the second lot of frames and door off them and still not right.
 
Normally an internal and external measurement are taken so you can hopefully see issues like this ...two ways around it , both at point of manufacture , either smaller windows as suggested so they can be ' packed ' up , or they could have used a ' wide ' outer frame. Normal frames are normally approx 52mm across front face of pvc , wide outer , if memory is 67mm .. this would have got overt the problem BUT depending on the manufacturer you may have to have had a wide outer all the way round ( whuich means the top and side you would see yet more frame than now ) ...some may put it in just the bottom or top though
 
If the window boards are original, then they can't help the height. Externally the frames have a cill and are bedded where they should be, so how much frame is visible internally is dictated by the window board being too high.
 
A good surveyor would measure the reveal sizes inside as well and deduct the inside measurements from the external sizes and depending what your left with is the thickness of the plaster/windowboards, half that and it roughly gives you the plaster thickness each side, you then have to determine by looking at the existing frame which side has the thicker plaster judging by how much frame is lost behind it, similarly for the height as well as the windowboard could be covering the most, combined with the sizes and a visual you can then determine which side/top or bottom or even all round needs frame extenders or even specify a large outer frame usually made from door profile, there really is no excuse for it
 
A good surveyor would measure the reveal sizes inside as well and deduct the inside measurements from the external sizes and depending what your left with is the thickness of the plaster/windowboards, half that and it roughly gives you the plaster thickness each side, you then have to determine by looking at the existing frame which side has the thicker plaster judging by how much frame is lost behind it, similarly for the height as well as the windowboard could be covering the most, combined with the sizes and a visual you can then determine which side/top or bottom or even all round needs frame extenders or even specify a large outer frame usually made from door profile, there really is no excuse for it

Again exactly what I thought they should do but to be told its ok as long as you can get at the beading but then proceed to silicon over the said beading. The contempt I have for this company!!! and Its still on going. Even two of the windows had to be forced in due to poor measuring and got damaged (and then forcibly removed as they had to replace them due to the damage)
 

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