Using tongue and groove cladding to trim shed?

[lozcozard]

Any reason I shouldn’t use the T&g cladding for shed trims? Specifically corners and roof edge. I have excess cladding. 22x100mm timber seems a bit too thick and wide but there’s none thinner in my local timber yards and I need over 3m which I can’t get in my car and adds a lot of cost for delivery.

The cladding thickness seems perfect. At least for corner trims.

Thanks

 

[foxhole]

No reason not to if you have skill and tools required.

 

[^woody^]

If untreated softwood it will rot quickly.

 

[rick1632]

Use a table saw to trim the T & G off, put the "cut" end at the top and reprotect all the timber exposed by the cuts.

I was going to do this myself and this was the advice I was given. Now I'm switching to using fence posts for my corners instead.

 

[JohnD]

presumably the eaves overhang and gutters will prevent water falling directly onto the boards? It will just blow onto the face and run off?

Be sure to have the tongues facing upward so that water can not lie in the grooves.

Treat it before fixing as you will never reach the edges afterwards.

I like to use rustproof screws so you can easily remove and replace any boards that get damp and rot. It will be the top one and the bottom one. BZP is not rustrproof.

 

[big-all]

if we are talking the thin 7.5mm stuff wont be very stable and wont take substantial screw to pin the cladding easily
14.5 should be ok

 

[JohnD]

I use decking boards for that sort of thing. Strong, treated and fairly cheap. Preferably buy some without huge knots and shakes.

I hadn't realised the T&G might be so thin.

 

[lozcozard]

Thanks all. I went ahead and looks good. If it doesn’t work out it’s easy to replace.

As suggested, the roof trims have tongue up so as not to collect water.

the corner trims have the groove edges butted together as I thought that would be a thicker seal to stop water getting in compared to tongue.

looks good and saved on more wood cost.

it’s the 14.5mm T&g