Utilizing space between two houses, building a roof.

[Dredd]

Hey all,

Me and my neighbour have decided to utilize the space between our two houses. I was thinking to build a roof covering the area, and use it as a storage space.

I am considering using polycarbonate sheets for the roof, shown on the picture in red.

Would be using 3 sheets per side, each 5.5m long and 0.8 m wide.

My main concern is how to add the fixings and the ridge once the sheets are in place. Is it possible to move over the polycarbonate roofing with a sliding board or lay over a ladder to reach the ridge/sides without damaging the polycarbonate sheets?

Or would it be better to use 1m by 2.4m sheets and put them "horizontally" from house to house? The concern I have is that water will end up in the glazing bars as they will act as a barrier.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[DAZB]

As it is only 2.4m wide would it be an option to construct it in two halves, each one measuring 5m long X 2.4m wide and fix some form of angle brackets or rail to the wall at the required pitch and slide each roof panel up the brackets/rail to be fixed in place at the right position. One of the panels could have the ridge cap attached and slide up and over the other panel. It could all be fixed from below and you could even set a flashing into the wall either side to keep the rain away from the ends. Hope that lot makes sense...

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Why such a complex structure?
Either do it as a leanto (so one side is higher than the other) or have a central ridge supported from the ground (such that if 1 neighbour decides after a while they don't want it the other side can stand on its own).
Corrugated poly is pretty weak but with an A frame ladder reaching over 800mm to get fixings in is not hard

 

[DAZB]

I wouldn't call 2 panels of that size complex and it is the easiest method without having to risk being on top of it. Also, who gets the low end where all the rainwater will run to ?

 

[oldbutnotdead]

I wouldn't call 2 panels of that size complex and it is the easiest method without having to risk being on top of it. Also, who gets the low end where all the rainwater will run to ?

Which is why you do it with a central ridge so the rainwater is shared equally. You both have convenient downpipes ...

 

[noseall]

Which is why you do it with a central ridge so the rainwater is shared equally. You both have convenient downpipes ...

..at the rear.

 

[Dredd]

As it is only 2.4m wide would it be an option to construct it in two halves, each one measuring 5m long X 2.4m wide and fix some form of angle brackets or rail to the wall at the required pitch and slide each roof panel up the brackets/rail to be fixed in place at the right position. One of the panels could have the ridge cap attached and slide up and over the other panel. It could all be fixed from below and you could even set a flashing into the wall either side to keep the rain away from the ends. Hope that lot makes sense...

We have pipes on the front as well, right after the corner.

That might be outside of our expertise. Would such angle brackets/rail be available online for order? I was thinking of doing 2 panels per side, but thought access would be terrible. With 3 panels at least from the middle would be some access to the ones near the walls.

The plan so far is to use F sections on the side, and put the 4 panels close to the walls on both sides in, seal the F section edge, and add the fixings. However the issue would be with the middle ones. Closing the ridge and the glazing bars + drilling the fixings through the polycarbonate would require going over the roof, which I am not sure if it is a good idea with polycarbonate.

The other option is to knock in the glazing bars between the side and the middle panel with some extended hammer, and don't do the fixings on the middle ones. Still the issue remain with the ridge, unless something can be done from the windows for one like this one:

 

[cdbe]

Having read some of the horror stories on here about "connecting" houses with these structures it's not something I would do. By all means something sympathetic, using shared central supports would be ok. The biggest issue would be flashing the house walls - I would make something like this (maybe two gutters as already mentioned) so the water is shed centrally.

 

[Notch7]

We have pipes on the front as well, right after the corner.

That might be outside of our expertise. Would such angle brackets/rail be available online for order? I was thinking of doing 2 panels per side, but thought access would be terrible. With 3 panels at least from the middle would be some access to the ones near the walls.

The plan so far is to use F sections on the side, and put the 4 panels close to the walls on both sides in, seal the F section edge, and add the fixings. However the issue would be with the middle ones. Closing the ridge and the glazing bars + drilling the fixings through the polycarbonate would require going over the roof, which I am not sure if it is a good idea with polycarbonate.

The other option is to knock in the glazing bars between the side and the middle panel with some extended hammer, and don't do the fixings on the middle ones. Still the issue remain with the ridge, unless something can be done from the windows for one like this one:
View attachment 306686

Some pointers

1) glazing bars can only be used in same direction as fall

2) twin wall polycarbonate can support your weight provided a suitable plywood board that spans rafters is used, so don’t panic on that

3) your biggest issue is weathering the walls: are You happy to grind out a cut line in the render and put in a lead flashing?

4) I would keep the ridge simple - just use lead flashing maybe use a lead roll mop. Hold the flashing down with the glazing bars

 

[Mr Chibs]

I built my lean-to from old rafters 10x2" (from old roof), it was around 2.4m x 6m.
I then used Alukap glazing bars, 600mm centres... they have powder coated knock down covers, with no screw fixings.
From memory 16mm twin wall.

I have climbed on the roof, with a scaffboard, have put some rubber pads to rest on the glazing bars.

 

[Dredd]

Some pointers

1) glazing bars can only be used in same direction as fall

2) twin wall polycarbonate can support your weight provided a suitable plywood board that spans rafters is used, so don’t panic on that

3) your biggest issue is weathering the walls: are You happy to grind out a cut line in the render and put in a lead flashing?

4) I would keep the ridge simple - just use lead flashing maybe use a lead roll mop. Hold the flashing down with the glazing bars

These are great thank you so much!
I am fine to remove the render. Then would silicone on the F section + flashing tape would be sufficient?

About Nr.4 - for the ridge I was thinking to use something like this:

Snapa Super Ridge White

Looking for a Ridge for your Polycarbonate Roof? Quality aluminium ridge at an affordable price. The 1st ridge to work with polycarbonate sheets & glazing bars.

clearambershop.com

But you are right, I didn't think how to waterproof the side. I can't find online a ridge that comes with a flashing.

Only this end plate, not sure if it would do the job.

Alukap-XR Ridge Gable End Plate

The Alukap-XR Ridge Gable End Plate is the perfect finish for the gable end of the Alukap-XR Ridge. The Alukap-XR glazing system is designed for high quality roof glazing with all components being aluminium powder coated finish for maximum longevity.

clearambershop.com

Would there be some video where I can see how to possibly do that ridge flashing relevant to my case?

Having read some of the horror stories on here about "connecting" houses with these structures it's not something I would do. By all means something sympathetic, using shared central supports would be ok. The biggest issue would be flashing the house walls - I would make something like this (maybe two gutters as already mentioned) so the water is shed centrally.

Thanks! I will discuss with my joiner!

I built my lean-to from old rafters 10x2" (from old roof), it was around 2.4m x 6m.
I then used Alukap glazing bars, 600mm centres... they have powder coated knock down covers, with no screw fixings.
From memory 16mm twin wall.

I have climbed on the roof, with a scaffboard, have put some rubber pads to rest on the glazing bars.

Ah that's awesome, I like that approach, thanks!

 

[Mr Chibs]

Are you thinking of having this construction pitched like on your photo?

If so, you need to be looking for 'flashing' these are the strips that abut to the walls. You may get lucky if your walls are flat and just use silicone/adhesive to adhere them.
You can also do the flashing in proper lead/flashband.

 

[Dredd]

Are you thinking of having this construction pitched like on your photo?

If so, you need to be looking for 'flashing' these are the strips that abut to the walls. You may get lucky if your walls are flat and just use silicone/adhesive to adhere them.
You can also do the flashing in proper lead/flashband.

I was thinking to put the F section near the wall and silicone where it meets the wall (the red lines). Then remove some of the render above it and use this flashing tape over it.

Securbond Flashing Tape - 10m Roll

Excellent Roof Flashing Tape for all types of roofing sheets. Flash Band Tape manufactured for Fast Delivery. Self Adhesive tape for Polycarbonate Roofing.

clearambershop.com

Would this tape be suitable with the walls I have?

 

[Mr Chibs]

Think I'd be tempted to use a flashing strip, F section (is sheet edging) not quite what you need... a bit small, but it might work in your situation.

If you didn't want to grind/remove the render (looks in good condition) you might get away with bonding the F section on the wall and add a few screws inside the channel. You could use something like puraflex from tool station. You will just need to fill any gaps between 'F' and render to get it water-tight. Expanding foam could be used but it may be messy to apply.

The securbond looks to be posh version of flashband.
They sell FB in Wickes if you want to see it, it's bitumen backed.
It may be difficult to apply these to render.

 

[Dredd]

Think I'd be tempted to use a flashing strip, F section (is sheet edging) not quite what you need... a bit small, but it might work in your situation.

If you didn't want to grind/remove the render (looks in good condition) you might get away with bonding the F section on the wall and add a few screws inside the channel. You could use something like puraflex from tool station. You will just need to fill any gaps between 'F' and render to get it water-tight. Expanding foam could be used but it may be messy to apply.

The securbond looks to be posh version of flashband.
They sell FB in Wickes if you want to see it, it's bitumen backed.
It may be difficult to apply these to render.

this is great, thank you so much!