Veritas 8 - Repair, Replace or Upgrade

Hi Adrian,

My mistake, it's covering an AC voltage not DC, but it is early in the morning.
 
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I'll tell A.M. from Texecom that their fuse ratings are wrong shall I?
 
Actually 125mA is correct. 240V x 0.125A = 30W. Highest rated fuse on PCB is 1.6A at12V which is 19.2W. So 125mA fuse should be adequate... Right?

Adrian
 
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Actually 125mA is correct. 240V x 0.125A = 30W. Highest rated fuse on PCB is 1.6A at12V which is 19.2W. So 125mA fuse should be adequate... Right?

Adrian
YES

We know that, it's what the manufacturer fits for its job in the control panel.

Only replace like for like, using a larger one can cause even more problems.

Don't play with the workings out, the correct size and locations are in the manual.

If this is too difficult for you to understand I strongly suggest you get someone in.
 
Europlex are you always in such a bad mood ? Chill out a bit, the world isn't against you mate ! At least remember that we can not all be as perfect as yourself. We know how good you are at this game so do yourself a favour and stop trying to prove it. 'Skitty' remarks only cause your own anxiety levels to increase, they do nothing to ours. I have already apologised to Adrian for my 'huge' mistake ... and corrected it. If you want to contact Texecom and tell them their fuse ratings are wrong, by all means go ahead, but my gut feeling is that a standby battery should be receiving no more than 500 milliamps, and I'll stick by it, big deal. Regarding our policy of carrying 1 amp and 500 mA in the van, this is corroborated by your own post, where, of the five fuses you mention, two are rated at 1 amp and 2 at 500 milliamps. Globally, our spares represent eighty percent of your quoted fuse ratings.

Adrian, How you go about finalising the repair is obviously 'your baby'. You have followed my advice and tested the panel rather than rush out and buy new, and rather than employ someone else to do the work. You have worked toward resolving a problem in the face of some conflicting advice and I am proud of you for it.

Here are the steps in the correct order:-

1. Link the panel and check with mains only.

2. Link the panel and check with battery only.

3. Link the panel and reconnect the external warning device.

4. Apply power only to one detector at a time.

When all detectors are powered:

5. Connect one detector alarm loop, leaving out the tamper loop.

6. Continue to connect the alarm loops at the remaining detectors.

7. Connect anti tamper to one detector only.

8. Continue to connect anti tamper at the remaining detectors.

Following this sequence guarantees that any underlying problems are highlighted.

I'll stick around, if only to nip 'sarcasm' as and when it arises.
 
Hi Joe,

I think my last post in this section referred to yourself in, shall we say, a kindly and genuine way, also accepting your comments as valid. Your last post, however, does nothing to further Adrian's enlightenment and may be deemed therefore as a complete waste of your own time and also the space we are using for this particular project. It also detracts from the prime essential of 'staying on the subject' for the sake of the original O.P.

On several occasions, a Yale topic in particular, I have found obstructive 'one liner comments' such as your last stretching a seemingly pertinent question into several pages. A one liner such as " .... it's the battery ..." for example does not help Adrian one iota, he not only wants, but needs further detail from people such as yourself who have sufficient experience to insert the 'why and wherefore' into the post. Otherwise your post, although the one liner may probably be correct, fails miserably in it's service to Adrian.

From my observations in the short duration I have been here, I am persuaded that, contrary to your last post, this forum is in desperate need of a prima donna such as myself.

Take Care Mate,
 
Thanks for all the answers so far.

I can understand the test sequence you want me to do chaindaisy. I don't think I will be connecting the siren until last however, as I am already rather unpopular with the neighbours since the powercut at 2am a couple of weeks ago (as described in the original post) when I couldn't actually switch off the damm thing. Having said that the battery is working fine so the same thing shouldn't happen, in theory.

It is the experts here that makes the forum so helpful. I thought this forum was for people like myself who is willing to "have a go" and the experts who in their spare time guide us to the correct path. Thanks to all of you out there!

Adrian
 
Hi Adrian, good to hear from you again.

Don't worry too much about the sequence of tests. It's just the way I do things when faced with this sort of problem. You are doing extremely well no matter what order you decide. I must apologise for the posts which appear to 'side track' the main topic, there's not a lot I can do about it unfortunately. If I am looking forward to anything, it's you coming back with a positive result, that's a good christmas present for me, and my sole purpose for being on this site.

Keep in touch,

Best Wishes.
 
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From my observations in the short duration I have been here, I am persuaded that, contrary to your last post, this forum is in desperate need of a prima donna such as myself.

Such arrogance.
 
Hi Adrian,

Please ignore the last post as it bears no relevance to your original enquiry and simply wastes topic space.

Best Wishes
 
Well, all wired in. Walk test done, and all sensors working as expected. Siren wired in and working too. Let just hope it never breaks again...

How long does these battery usually last? I read from somewhere that they don't last as long in a warm/hot environment such as the water tank cupboard. I got myself a 7Ah one made by Lucas. My last one made by Ultracell is a 2.4Ah and that lasted about a year (or less), plus a blown fuse)

Thanks to everyone for their contribution on my thread. Definitely saved at least £100 if not more on labour and saved myself from getting a new panel. Hopefully my neighbours will love us again!

Adrian
 
Hi Adrian,

How warm is the cupboard where the panel is mounted, and how far away from the boiler and hot water pipes is the panel ? Batteries have a upper (maximum heat) and a lower (minimum heat) threshold. Bear in mind that these batteries are used in some very hot climates around the world. Kenya, Spain, Florida, virtually everywhere. The battery should last about three or four years, but leave everything as it is for now and if you feel that the battery needs changing more frequently, there's no harm in that. You have carried out a text book repair and service which together with the battery could have cost well in excess of £200, if not nearer £300 by todays's prices. You should be very proud of yourself. And there is more, you know how to perform a link test, you know how to change the battery, you know how to wire the detectors and you need never pay a security installer ever again.

Best Wishes.
 
Three hundred quid? I'd give him a new panel, new battery and five year guarantee for less than that.
 

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