Veritas R8 bell box in erratic alarm
- Thread starter ottosump
- Start date
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Linking 0v and TR will not always help... If the alarm has been going off inside as well as outside, this will stop the former but not necessarily the latter. So it will wake up the neighbours but not you! 
Some bells have a "mind of their own" and generate tampers when their own NiCd battery is failing - usually in cold weather. I think it's time to get the ladders out and check the connections, switches and battery in the bell. You never know, the tamper switch might appreciate a little excercise...
Some bells have a "mind of their own" and generate tampers when their own NiCd battery is failing - usually in cold weather. I think it's time to get the ladders out and check the connections, switches and battery in the bell. You never know, the tamper switch might appreciate a little excercise...
C
chaindaisy
Good post Eighty Two, you've got your finger on the pulse. However, it could be down to the standby battery also, so those are the two areas I would contemplate.
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C
chaindaisy
I don't need to tell an amateur anything, if he professes to know it all. I'll help the public joe, I won't help you. Read up on your correspondence course, it might give you a clue.
C
chaindaisy
No, "In other words" go and get some real experience. Oh ! but you have, since you have stated on many an occasion that you have installed 1000 systems in 25 years, that's correct joe isn't it. Are you going to deny that one as well, or twist it in some way ?
Could not see a TR or 0v in the panel, could see a "T" and a "R". Opened the bell box, not a pretty sight. See pictures below, looks like there could be a few dry joints on there, hoping to get them soldered in next hour. Had my fluke on the micro switch and was getting conductivity in both the open & closed position, tried it again then got nothing, thought it better to remove the PCB and give it a clean. The wire came off the switch on removal, is the switch in the normally open or normally closed position when in situ? will clean with switch cleaning lubricant also.
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Hi Ottosump, yes linking the two wires together will by-pass the tamper switch. The tamper circuit is just a N/C loop
Looking at the other photo's it would be worth replacing the sounder, I would reccomend a Texecom Odyssey sounder to keep things simple.
It would be a simple case of connecting like for like on the panel and sounder, A to A, B to B, C to C, D to D and S to S
The odyssey sounder has an Engineer Hold Off and is available in a number of designs and also as an "E" model that has one siren so slightly less output. 115db or 109db.
Looking at the other photo's it would be worth replacing the sounder, I would reccomend a Texecom Odyssey sounder to keep things simple.
It would be a simple case of connecting like for like on the panel and sounder, A to A, B to B, C to C, D to D and S to S
The odyssey sounder has an Engineer Hold Off and is available in a number of designs and also as an "E" model that has one siren so slightly less output. 115db or 109db.
I strongly agree with SandyLyon, one look at the PCB and in the bin it goes.
Of course if you want another problem in the near future .........
Seriously, it's really not worth messing about with a soldering iron, a new box will look good too.
Of course if you want another problem in the near future .........
Seriously, it's really not worth messing about with a soldering iron, a new box will look good too.
See my post above, a Texecom Odyssey sounder will be the most straight forward
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