Very Quick Router Bit Question

[finster]

Hi all,

Just a quick one - what's the difference between a flush trim router cutter and a normal straight one? The flush trim bit seems to have a bearing on but I'm not sure how it would make a difference?

(For what it's worth, I am attempting to trim a straight edge off some solid kitchen worktop)....

Cheers...

 

[big-all]

the flush trim bit trims laminate flush with the bearing guiding the direction

try the same with a normal cutter and you need clamps and battons and need to be extremely accurate with the positioning to get good results
but the strait bit can be used for for cutting grooves channels and rebates of various sizes in one or more pass

the laminate trim bit is what you want dont even think about using a normal cutter as the dammage you can cause by a slight error of setting up can be horrendous

 

[finster]

Thanks,

So would a flush trim bit be OK for me doing a straight edge on solid wood (as well as laminate)?

Cheers...

 

[big-all]

assuming its got 2 cutting edges unless its very thin wood no as you can only remove around 4 up to six mm in one pass unless you use a saw to cut all but the last 4mm then trim flush also the thickness needs to be less than the cutting length of the cutter[bearing must not touch]

 

[finster]

Thanks again,

I'm still a bit confused.

The cutter I have seen is a 1/2" Flush Trim TCT Router bit (50mm long cutting edges, 12.7mm diameter at cutting edges).

What I am trying to do is cut the bevel (only 3mm wide) off two lengths of solid wood Ikea worktop that's 40mm thick in order to do a small mason-mitre join (please see here - sorry for creating two posts, that'll teach me for asking questions I already thought that I knew the answer to! )

So I was going to buy a 50mm straight router bit, but saw the flush trim one and didn't know which one to get... Is the straight one more suitable?

Cheers.

 

[Jasonb]

A lot will depend on the size of your flush bit a samll one with 1/4" shank and say 15mm long will only be good for light work. On the other hand I have a multitrim bit which has top & bottom bearings that is ideal for trimming the bottom of veneered doors, profiling timber worktops and template work.

The main uses of flush bits are to trim one material to the same shape of another, from laminate(formica) to large sections of timber using templates

Unless your flush bit is longer than your worktop I don't see you being able to use it.

Jason

 

[big-all]

Thanks again,

I'm still a bit confused.

The cutter I have seen is a 1/2" Flush Trim TCT Router bit (50mm long cutting edges, 12.7mm diameter at cutting edges).

What I am trying to do is cut the bevel (only 3mm wide) off two lengths of solid wood Ikea worktop that's 40mm thick in order to do a small mason-mitre join (please see here - sorry for creating two posts, that'll teach me for asking questions I already thought that I knew the answer to! )

So I was going to buy a 50mm straight router bit, but saw the flush trim one and didn't know which one to get... Is the straight one more suitable?

Cheers.

The cutter I have seen is a 1/2" Flush Trim TCT Router bit (50mm long cutting edges, 12.7mm diameter at cutting edges).

this looks like a worktop cutter and wont have a bearing it can only cut surfaces at 90% to the base

you can only cut a bevel [a flat surface between two other angles]with a bevel cutter
i think you have all the help you need with jason and scrit

 

[finster]

Thanks guys,

This is the one I have seen (although the one illustrated is a different size)

you can only cut a bevel [a flat surface between two other angles]with a bevel cutter

I think you have misunderstood - I am trying to cut off the bevel from the edge of worktop (not rounded profile but 3mm bevel), not add a bevel.

My router is 1/2 inch, do I just need a straight bit over say 50mm long?

 

[big-all]

aaahhh got you

as long as your cutter is a few mm longer than the thickness it will do the job

if it has a bearing wheel you could pin a batton on the bottom edge set 3mm back and run the bearing on it
low speed low feed rate to save burns

you could also use a batton and clamps or the fence provided with the router providing it can accomodate the router cutter so close to the centre

 

[Jasonb]

If you are going to have to buy a cutter I would opt for a plain 12.7 x50mm bit with a 1/2" shank. It will be stronger and more useful than the flush trim which is a bit weak with a 1/4" shank.

Fit the cutter to the router then measure from the cutting edge to the edge of your router base, this will give you the offset of the router.

Add 3mm to the offset measurement and clamp/pin/screw a batten to the underside of the area you want to cut. With the area to be removed facing you run the router along the batten from left to right, probably is 4 cuts each 10mm deep.

Jason

 

[finster]

Thanks a lot guys, much appreciated. Think I'll just get a straight bit if it's all that I need.... I'll order extra and do plenty practicing first...

While I'm on the subject of worktops and routers, how do I do the recesses for the joining bolts? I've ordered a router bit for the biscuits - do I need a jig/template for the bolt holes?

Thanks...

 

[Jasonb]

The holes for WT bolts are usually done using the same WT jig that is used for the masons mitre, they usually have three in one side of the jig. You can hire the jigs if its just for one job.

It is possible to do them using a 35mm hinge bit for the head and a saw & chisel for the bolt shank.

If you go the jig route then you will be able to use the same 12.7x50 straight bit but will also need a 30mm guide bush to suit your router if it takes one!

Jason

 

[finster]

Thanks again,

Just to finish this off for future reference, I've ordered a cheap jig off ebay to do the bolt recesses - I can always sell it again later.

Cheers for the advice...