vibrating noise when using bath tap only!

[helptavner]

i think i have the following problem.

http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090609052422AAfaGjD that someone has answered rather well on here,

as im not a plumber, simple question would i be able to undo the nut (like you do on a ball vale on a toilet) and just replace the washer? rather than taking the old part 2 ball valve off (as im sure if i do it it will be leaking at the connection part)

thanks

 

[helptavner]

anyone, does anyone advise that changing the washer in the current ball valve will solve the problem?? thanks

 

[Burnerman]

I'm not sure what you are saying.....
When you run the hot tap, is the vibration noise coming from the loft tank, or the hot tap itself?
Either way, replace the tap washer or, if its a type 1 valve up there, releasing the split pin and cap will allow the jumper to pull clear of the valve. The rubber washer is in the end of the jumper.
John

 

[Charnwood]

The rubber washer is in the end of the

piston. Taps have jumpers. Especially the cold ones.

It should not be a BS1212 Part 1 if it is fed by the mains. It should be a Part 2.
If it is you'll need a Part 2 diaphragm washer. Looks like a liquorice Pontefract Cake.

First, isolate the valve or turn off your stopcock.
Undo the big nut (red arrow) and remove it, along with the float arm.
Remove the old washer, noting which way round it is fitted.
Reverse the procedure with the new washer.

Untitled

• Charnwood
• 23 Nov 2012
• 1

Top; Part 2, off which some TGB has nicked the sparge pipe
Middle; MOH (Ministry oh Housing) or Portsmouth Pattern
Bottom; Part 1

 

[helptavner]

Hiya all,thanks for your help ealier ^^^ i have managed to change the washer, all went pretty well - wwas going to take the big nut off and take it out the roof but this just seem to spin so i left it a long! undid the part were the washer sit and could see straight away why it was making the noise wasnt in the best of condition!
noise sorted and all seems to be ok!

One minor point water seems to weep/drip out of the plastic spout a little around were the spout fits in to the brass part, will this stop onece the ball valve completely shuts off? or is it just because its worn?
guessing it will be ok?

migt be an idea to fit a new ball valve complete in the future, is the issue i raise a common one and anything to worry about??

thanks

 

[helptavner]

anyone ?

 

[TicklyT]

'Tis the nature of a conventional float valve.
A theoretically perfect float valve would never close completely, it would just continue to get nearer to closed, but never quite get there, like the old snail climbing a wall problem.

Fortunately real float valves are not that perfect, so they do close eventually, but sometimes only after a considerable amount of hissing, wheezing and dripping.