Wall socket failing? Please help

[mania112]

Hello there,

I have a dishwasher plugged into the wall, after a minute of dish-washing the power fails. I then have to take the plug out, wait, and later it will work again (only to fail after a minute again)

I'm sure it's the socket in the wall, because I can plug the dishwasher somewhere else in the kitchen and it works fine.

Here's the socket (if you need to see it?!) i noticed it looks slightly different to most, with a white 'backing' in the bottom 2 sockets.

I can't afford to call anyone out, so i'm hoping there's a relatively simple fix?

Thanks

EDIT: The Dishwasher is a Bosch Classixx

 

[EFLImpudence]

It sounds like a loose connection somewhere.

Try replacing the socket first.

Switch off the power and remove the socket.

If the wires show signs of overheating then they will have to be cut back past the burnt bits.
If they do not then the problem could be in the socket itself so fit a new one.

If that does not cure the problem then you will have to trace the cable and do the same.
Do you have a switch above the worktop?

 

[mania112]

yeah there's a double socket above the worktop, if i pull the dishwasher out it works fine above.

Ok, i'll take your advice and see how we get on.

The switch on the plug is hard to push in, so maybe the unit is faulty.

 

[xr4x4]

its also possible that the single socket is fed from the double socket above, as a spur.

so check this wiring too.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Sounds like a loose within the socket, isolate the circuit and investigate for loose cables within that socket and also possible that a loose conection in a socket feed that socket but less likely.
Could be heat that is causing the conductors to expand and lose contact within the terminals.
The white shutters in the line and neutral ports, on the socket outlet are quite normal.

 

[mania112]

Update:

Everything looks in good conditions except there are 2 earth wrapped around each other, could that be a problem?

If i reset those with just one of the earths, would that help?

 

[EFLImpudence]

No. The earths are fine.

Have a similar look in the socket above the worktop.

If it has three sets of wires it will be likely the supply for this socket.
If these wires are ok as well - and tight - it must be the actual socket (below) so fit a new one.

There is nothing else it can be.

 

[Chri5]

No (it won't help).

Since the on / off switch is stiff (so faulty ish) get a new single socket £3-£5 and replace the old one.

As mentioned make sure the circuit is dead via the fuse board and you should also nip back each cable to make sure the new socket is terminated on bright copper wire.

The earths are fine and the twist won't hurt, although you might as well untwist when your replace the socket.

Report back once done and let's see if that resolves the problem.

As an add on, check the length of the appliance cord- since the unit is pushed back under the counter you should make sure that the cord hasn't been crushed or squeezed when the appliance is pushed back under. You should open up the plug and double cechl that each termination is solid and nothing is loose. Yeah you say the unit works fine in another socket, but I can assure you it has been known (to have a loose wiring in a plug that when the plug is moved elsewhere doesn't 'seem' to be a problem).

 

[mania112]

The plot thickens (i think!)

above the worktop is a double socket next to a single pre-wired socket (don't know the correct name for them, but one of the sockets with a fuse in them, for lights under the cabinets above)

The cabling goes a bit crazy:

The black cable in the double socket fell out when i pulled the socket out, so they're obviously loose.

There's some plaster surrounding the earth, which easily brushed off with my finger.

the double socket seems to be feeding the amp-box thing, which in turn feeds down to the under-worktop socket.

EDIT: The lights work, so I dont think the fuse has blown

 

[NewOrder]

Why is there a fuse connection unit providing power to the socket? Are you sure it is not just for the lights?

Bbut yes the loose cable would certainly be a problem, however I would replace the socket, if the switch feels iffy it is just something to go wrong so just replace it, an MK one will cost you £3 or so.

Also what is the typical load of that double socket? I hope you're not running a washing machine and a separate dryer on there at the same time.

I am not qualified so make sure one of the sparks on here checks out the wiring in there first, it looks a little iffy to me, but mainly because of the terminal block it all looks a bit squashed.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Tighten all the terminal screws (that could be the cause),

then try the DW in the lower socket.

If still no good then replace the socket - best to replace anyway as switch is faulty.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Replace loose connection and tighten.
It is not that easy to work out the configuration of the double socket in relationship to SFCU and single socket, but looks like the Switch Fused connection Unit (SFCU) next to the double socket, is supplying two loads.
I assume one is for cabinet lights as mentioned but is the other for the single socket below worktop?
If you switch the SFCU off does the single socket work/is there a voltage there?
Could you also check out the fuse's amp rating that is fitted in it?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, that's right.

Also the double socket has two Lives but three Neutrals (2 blacks, 1 blue)???

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Looks like the neutral for the light(blue core) is being supplied via double socket but the live(brown) via SFCU and connection block!

 

[mania112]

yeah this is a bit out of my depth.

The bottom socket (the one that's not working) is being supplied by the SFCU which itself seems to be fed from the double socket.