Wardrobe Lights Wiring

[flameport]

Anyone able to provide me with a list of stuff that can get this job done?

LEDs: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SK153717.html
Power supply: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LALED12DRV30.html
Switches: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FM143.html
Cable: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA0dot5F2Bslash50.html

Other likely items - some form of junction box to connect the cable from the switches, power supply and power input, a plug or FCU to connect to the mains supply, perhaps a short piece of 3 core cable, cable clips, screws, etc.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Looking at the exposed connections on the back of the switches that davelx linked to, I would suggest that under no circumstances should they be used on anything except extra-low voltage (under 50V AC or 90V DC) unless extra insulation/shielding was provided.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/limit-switch-accessories/1790861/?origin=PSF_421259|acc

 

[Hpd]

LEDs: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SK153717.html
Power supply: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LALED12DRV30.html
Switches: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FM143.html
Cable: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA0dot5F2Bslash50.html

Other likely items - some form of junction box to connect the cable from the switches, power supply and power input, a plug or FCU to connect to the mains supply, perhaps a short piece of 3 core cable, cable clips, screws, etc.

Thanks for taking the time! Much appreciated and I'll get going on this. Will post again with how I get on

 

[Hpd]

okay so ive realised that certain shelves would get in the way of my LED lighting idea SO im only going to put two 1m strips in beneath a shelf that sits above the hanging space in two of the wardrobes. Just to make sure I've figured this all out... does this make sense now?

PLUG ----> DRIVER ----> JUNCTION BOX ----> SWITCH ONE ----> LED STRIP 1
l
l
-----------------> SWITCH TWO ----> LED STRIP 2

My understanding is that I need the correct wattage driver allowing an extra 20% and that I also need switches that will cope with being permanently live and not burn out.

yay or nah?

**** my makeshift diagram has come out wrong, the "switch two" is supposed to come from the junction box

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I thought you wanted

lights which come on when any of the doors are opened

The above will give you two lengths of strip, with one of the 6 doors turning one on, another door turning the other one on, and 4 doors turning nothing on.

Also, check with the maker of the power supply that switching the load side will be OK.

 

[Hpd]

I thought you wanted
The above will give you two lengths of strip, with one of the 6 doors turning one on, another door turning the other one on, and 4 doors turning nothing on.

Also, check with the maker of the power supply that switching the load side will be OK.

Ah yeah in my haste I forgot about that! So yeah you're right I want BOTH doors on two wardrobes to operate their led strips. Will refer to your diagram and make sure to wire them in parallel on each wardrobe. Think I've got it now (finally lol)

 

[JohnW2]

You can leave the power supply permanently connected and put the switches in the 12 volt side. This is how it is usually done these days by wardrobe fitters.

I have to say that I would not regard that as a very 'nice' approach.

Can you think of any advantage of this, other than the fact that it means that wardrobe fitters (or whoever) don't have to work with 'mains wiring'?

Kind Regards, John

 

[flameport]

PLUG ----> DRIVER ----> JUNCTION BOX ---->

Colours in the diagram:
Green - earth
blue - neutral
red - line

2 core flex to connect the switches. Add more switches in the same way if required, one for each door.

 

[Hpd]

Colours in the diagram:
Green - earth
blue - neutral
red - line

2 core flex to connect the switches. Add more switches in the same way if required, one for each door.

View attachment 137685

thats perfect thanks mate. So I'll do it that way but need to make sure the switches are suitable, seeing as they are on the 240v side of the driver?

 

[flameport]

The switches linked to previously are suitable.
Switching 240V is entirely normal and not a problem.
Switching DC is not and will cause problems.

 

[winston1]

I have to say that I would not regard that as a very 'nice' approach.

Can you think of any advantage of this, other than the fact that it means that wardrobe fitters (or whoever) don't have to work with 'mains wiring'?

Kind Regards, John

Well often proximity sensors are often used on the doors rather than switches and these (or the ones they use) are designed around 12 volts. I imagine you can get 240 volt ones but at a higher price.

 

[JohnW2]

Well often proximity sensors are often used on the doors rather than switches and these (or the ones they use) are designed around 12 volts. I imagine you can get 240 volt ones but at a higher price.

If that's what one wanted, one could use dirt-cheap mains voltage PIRs, couldn't one?

Kind Regards, John

 

[winston1]

If that's what one wanted, one could use dirt-cheap mains voltage PIRs, couldn't one?

Kind Regards, John

They are rather big. A 12v proximity sensor is about 15mm cube.

 

[JohnW2]

They are rather big. A 12v proximity sensor is about 15mm cube.

If size/space is an issue, I suppose that might possibly be a consideration, but mains voltage ones don't necessarily have to be very big. ...

.... and, in any event, that is not a reason why the OP should use a (in my opinion) less-than-ideal arrangement, since he does not plan to use proximity detectors.

Kins Regards, John

 

[davelx]

Switching DC is not and will cause problems.

Works perfectly well in 10's of millions of motor vehicles.