Warmfront Ideal Isar HE30

S

snadge

We recently bought a house that has this boiler in, i was sure it was having issues..after turning off heating it still was making a sound as if it was on, I assumed this was a pump rotating the water around the pipes (why i dunno) after it was turned off... recently, after turning off via the wifi remote it sometimes stays ON and we have to turn it off again - just today i turned it off at the remote, then off at the wall and back on and later she said it was still on?? but not sure on that one though...

so I googled it and imagine my WOE when i find lots of bad reviews about this boiler...

is this normal that the pump (or what I assume to be the pump) still turns on and off after you turn off the heating?
and the "still on after turning off" issue - could this be batteries in the wireless remote?

should we get rid? (got no money too at all, we are trying to get the new kitchen on credit - she will FLIP when i tell her this when she comes in)

ive read that most engineers will not touch them cos they are that bad

P.S. - some of the radiators upstairs dont heat up much or take a long time too and the pressure seems to be on ZERO when its off is this normal? - im sure when we moved in it wasnt


thanks
 
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They have a pump over run for about 5 or 6 minutes once the heating goes off.

Yes these are about the worst boilers you can have, like any new Ideal boiler really, but in your case I would be checking the remote controls for correct functioning.
 
S

snadge

this comes on a few times - i THINK the warmer it is (longer its been on) the more the pump comes on after its turned off - for longer periods and a few times...

i will change batterys in remote

the pressure valve - is this an issue?
when we moved in im sure it was on about 1bar... now its 0bar...nothing, but when water is turned on it creeps up....

also theres been twice when filling the bath the pipes have started banging and water stops while it does this, stopping water then restarting it is fine after that? as if theres trapped air? - with the two of the radiators taking an AGE to heat up upstairs would this mean it needs a complete flush...?

im just wondering if it needs servicing? if so how much is this likely to cost?


thanks for your help i really appreciate it
 
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They have a pump over run for about 5 or 6 minutes once the heating goes off.

Yes these are about the worst boilers you can have, like any new Ideal boiler really, but in your case I would be checking the remote controls for correct functioning.


complete and utter rubish, the isar you have will be fine if the installer was any good, the only problem you will get with this is the pcb.

these boilers do not tolerate dirty system water. ;)
 
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snadge

They have a pump over run for about 5 or 6 minutes once the heating goes off.

Yes these are about the worst boilers you can have, like any new Ideal boiler really, but in your case I would be checking the remote controls for correct functioning.


complete and utter rubish, the isar you have will be fine if the installer was any good, the only problem you will get with this is the pcb.

these boilers do not tolerate dirty system water. ;)

erm...
the PCB... is this the wireless remote receiver on the wall? or is it a circuit board inside the boiler? ihow much to fix when goes?
 
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Where shall we start, pumps, fans, pcb's, diverter valves, spark generators, ignition electrodes that keep warping because they don't like heat, burner bolts at the back that jam into the ali block because they were made of the wrong metal.

Heat exchangers leaking after 3-4 years, new boiler needed, combustion insulation panels dropping at the back and burning through the back of the case.

Not to mention all that ali sludge in the sump at each service, the customers heat exchanger being eaten away all the time by the condensate.

Need I go on?

I can't see any improvements with the logic either apart from a better board and giving them away with cornflakes.
 
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The logic is miles better in every department.

the diverter vlv pump plate heat ex main heat exchanger will all be fine if the system water is betwwen 7 and 8.5 on the ph scale.

yes ignition electrodes need replacing every 2 years but to be honest id say that would be normal. pcb is crap £ 145.00 when it does go faulty.

other then that not too bad there is a lot worse, Ravenheat, baxi 105e,viessmann 100 early ones,worcester junior standard efficency,glow-worm cxi just to name a few. so come on stop knocking **** out of ideal every blr manufacture has a skeleton or three
 
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The logic is miles better in every department.
your on your own here as the rest of us wised up and stopped fitting their ****e boilers
other then that not too bad there is a lot worse, Ravenheat, baxi 105e,viessmann 100 early ones,worcester junior standard efficency,glow-worm cxi just to name a few. so come on stop knocking s**t out of ideal every blr manufacture has a skeleton or three

i have all the above boilers on my books, not one is anywhere near as unreliable as Ideals ****e boilers.

gasguru summed up how ****e they are, and their customer service is the pits they lie through their back teeth to get out of a warranty call
I know of only 1 other company that is like it (potterton and the suprima pcb issue)
 
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The boiler is a good one fitted loads, but because Shirtfront fitted it, it will be crap, rip it out and get a decent installer to fit an Ideal Logic + properly.
 
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We recently bought a house that has this boiler in, i was sure it was having issues..after turning off heating it still was making a sound as if it was on, I assumed this was a pump rotating the water around the pipes (why i dunno) after it was turned off... recently, after turning off via the wifi remote it sometimes stays ON and we have to turn it off again - just today i turned it off at the remote, then off at the wall and back on and later she said it was still on?? but not sure on that one though...

so I googled it and imagine my WOE when i find lots of bad reviews about this boiler...

is this normal that the pump (or what I assume to be the pump) still turns on and off after you turn off the heating?
and the "still on after turning off" issue - could this be batteries in the wireless remote?

should we get rid? (got no money too at all, we are trying to get the new kitchen on credit - she will FLIP when i tell her this when she comes in)

ive read that most engineers will not touch them cos they are that bad

P.S. - some of the radiators upstairs dont heat up much or take a long time too and the pressure seems to be on ZERO when its off is this normal? - im sure when we moved in it wasnt


thanks

Isar's have a hot water pre heat facility that fires the boiler up periodically to heat the plate heat exchanger up. If for example you are not using anything (heating or hot water) you will find that the boiler will and should fire up every hour and a half or so. You cannot switch the pre heat off unless you buy an add on to do so.

It sounds to me that you have a sticking diverter valve. If the diverter valve is stuck in the heating position your radiators will get hot when the hot water pre heat kicks in. Because its stuck the radiators will get hot when they shouldnt. So it will need to be replaced.

A sign of this happening will be that in the status window there will be a 'd' which means domestic hot water and your rads will be hot.

In regard to pump overrun. The pump will overrun for 5 minutes after the central heating controls have turned the heating off.

Hope this helps.

Regards.
 
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The Ideal Eyesore is not exactly the best boiler on the market, and the warmfront scam has probably generated more complaints than any other company.
Chances are you are throwing good money after bad, get rid of it.
 
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complete and utter rubish, the isar you have will be fine if the installer was any good, the only problem you will get with this is the pcb.

these boilers do not tolerate dirty system water. ;)

How can you make such a bold statement with such a terrible boiler, you almost sound as bad as Ideal! blaming everyone else! You always seem to avoid mentioning the other numerous problems that this sheet box has, it is very commendable that you still have faith in Ideals products, I hope they treat you well in return because my experiences with not so Ideal boilers have left me to belive that company couldn't give 2 tosses about it's customers
 

snb

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yes ignition electrodes need replacing every 2 years but to be honest id say that would be normal.

if that is your idea of quality then that explains the rest of the boiler build quality.

I think it will take a lifetime before i'll be installing anymore ideals.
 
S

snadge

We recently bought a house that has this boiler in, i was sure it was having issues..after turning off heating it still was making a sound as if it was on, I assumed this was a pump rotating the water around the pipes (why i dunno) after it was turned off... recently, after turning off via the wifi remote it sometimes stays ON and we have to turn it off again - just today i turned it off at the remote, then off at the wall and back on and later she said it was still on?? but not sure on that one though...

so I googled it and imagine my WOE when i find lots of bad reviews about this boiler...

is this normal that the pump (or what I assume to be the pump) still turns on and off after you turn off the heating?
and the "still on after turning off" issue - could this be batteries in the wireless remote?

should we get rid? (got no money too at all, we are trying to get the new kitchen on credit - she will FLIP when i tell her this when she comes in)

ive read that most engineers will not touch them cos they are that bad

P.S. - some of the radiators upstairs dont heat up much or take a long time too and the pressure seems to be on ZERO when its off is this normal? - im sure when we moved in it wasnt


thanks

Isar's have a hot water pre heat facility that fires the boiler up periodically to heat the plate heat exchanger up. If for example you are not using anything (heating or hot water) you will find that the boiler will and should fire up every hour and a half or so. You cannot switch the pre heat off unless you buy an add on to do so.

It sounds to me that you have a sticking diverter valve. If the diverter valve is stuck in the heating position your radiators will get hot when the hot water pre heat kicks in. Because its stuck the radiators will get hot when they shouldnt. So it will need to be replaced.

A sign of this happening will be that in the status window there will be a 'd' which means domestic hot water and your rads will be hot.

In regard to pump overrun. The pump will overrun for 5 minutes after the central heating controls have turned the heating off.

Hope this helps.

Regards.

MANY THANKS

from your post i was able to diagnose that the boiler is working properly and that we have had issues with battery/remote - however the only thing im wondering about is the pressure... im sure it was 1bar when we moved in and now its ZERO and goes up when in use

is this OK?

when it goes on periodically for the plate the radiators do not get hot (however my neighbour who has a worcestor installed...looks oldish, he says his radiotor(s) are warm even when its off - will he have a problem? the enginner said it was normal???)
 
S

snadge

my dad says theyre might be a leak and thats why it shows no pressure? , and the reason that only the bottom of the bathroom and little bedroom radiator get warm and not the top is because there is air in the top and could be a leak?

also before the pressure dropped the pipes started banging (and water spitting) one night when running the bath - this happened a couple of timeds whn running the bath

my dad also mentions some inhibitor stuff you put in radiator to keep water clean which may also help this boiler? im rasing the radiator pipes into wall in kitchen so this will give me an opportunity to put this stuff in...what do you think?

can anyone help with this?

thanks in advance
 

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