Washing machine on extension

[matlob]

Hi
I’m moving a kitchen around and need to have the washing machine on an accessible plug

Can I plug a single extension lead into a normal plug socket and route this to the back of the washing machine so it can plug in?

Need to move the plug about 3m

Thanks in advance for any help

 

[thomp1983]

Should be fine, make sure the extension is fully unwound if it's a reel type

 

[Alec_t]

Can I plug a single extension lead into a normal plug socket and route this to the back of the washing machine so it can plug in?

I've done that in the past using a minimal length suitably-rated extension lead with no problem, despite the instructions that came with the machine saying don't use an extension lead.

 

[SUNRAY]

I've done that in the past using a minimal length suitably-rated extension lead with no problem, despite the instructions that came with the machine saying don't use an extension lead.

I'm sure the main reason for the advice not to use extentions is purely due to the general publics lack of understanding.

A cable of suitable gauge and the right length (so there is no bunching or coiling) with high quality plugs and sockets should be fine.

 

[matlob]

Thanks for the replies

Would a 13amp one be ok. Won’t be on a reel but will be a 4 or 5m length one.

Or would I need a fused one?

The machine is a cold water feed only if that make a difference due to it heating the water.

 

[winston1]

It will be fused (twice), once in the extensions plug and second in the washing machines plug.

But personally I would not do it. If I was changing the kitchen around I would fit a socket in the new location while I was changing the plumbing and drainage.

 

[SUNRAY]

It will be fused (twice), once in the extensions plug and second in the washing machines plug.

But personally I would not do it. If I was changing the kitchen around I would fit a socket in the new location while I was changing the plumbing and drainage.

I confess I somehow interpreted OP as being a temporary arrangement, It's not an ideal situation but totally common thing to do.

 

[big-all]

general comments

most machines seem to around 2000w max for perhaps 5-10 mins max dependent on temperature so any correctly rated cable should be fine
its when you get above perhaps 2500w and perhaps 10m that limits start to be part off the equation
as others have said its the safety issues like tripping damaging and unreeling cable

 

[ericmark]

The only appliance where there is a problem is refrigeration, where volt drop can cause the motor to stall, but some are now inverter control so less of a problem, but one must remember a fuse gets hot, and we have a fuse in our plugs, so plugs must be in free air, or of course forced air cooling as with many ovens.

I see no problem with a washing machine, however there is a problem with a washer/dryer. The washer/dryer used high amps for an extended time, so really needs a dedicated supply, everything else in the kitchen uses the high power for a very short time, so not really a problem.

Immersion heaters EV charging points, and dryers (be stand alone or built into washing machine) should have a dedicated supply if using more than 2 kW, and any item using more that 3 kW, shower, cooker etc. But the kettle uses power for very short time, and the heating elements is washing machines and ovens again use power for a short time.

I think some washer/dryers are using heat pumps, so they will have a warning not to use extension leads due to volt drop problem.

 

[winston1]

There is no requirement for a dedicated supply for items over 2kW in the regs. A ring final was originally designed with the idea of electric heating and many electric heaters at the time were 3 kW.

 

[matlob]

Thanks all.

Bit more info. It's in a flat and I have a control grid on the wall with 4 switches

Switches:
1. Oven (hard wired)
2. Cooker Hood (switches hidden socket above the hood)
3. Fridge (switches single socket behind the fridge)
4. Washing machine (switches single socket behind washing machine)

The hob has it's own switch on the wall for some reason and isn't within the grid?


I've never seen a control grid before but guess it's there so things can easily be turned off when the plug is behind the appliance. Does a grid have fuses or is it just a switch on/off for isolating the appliances?


I'm moving the washing machine a few cupboards up so just want a single 4m 13amp extension lead from the single socket so I can still utilise the grid switch. All other electrics are done and in place.

Not sure how hard it would be to add a socket but had trouble getting people over for small jobs.

 

[RandomGrinch]

...the other alternative for a slightly more permanent install, is to use an in-line connector block:

Wilko 3 Core Flex Connector | Wilko

Shop for Wilko 3 Core Flex Connector at wilko - where we offer a range of home and leisure goods at great prices.

www.wilko.com

It does mean some DIY wiring, but there are fewer contacts, so less additional resistance, and the cable can be the exact length you need.

 

[Mottie]

I've done that in the past using a minimal length suitably-rated extension lead with no problem, despite the instructions that came with the machine saying don't use an extension lead.

The one I have at work is sited outside. I use an extension lead. I don’t unreel it all. The last time I used it on a 90° wash (was washing our oily rags), the washing machine plug practically welded itself into the extension reel socket!

 

[SUNRAY]

The one I have at work is sited outside. I use an extension lead. I don’t unreel it all. The last time I used it on a 90° wash (was washing our oily rags), the washing machine plug practically welded itself into the extension reel socket!

That'll be the cheap quality of the extention reel or the abuse it has sufferred

 

[opps]

That'll be the cheap quality of the extention reel or the abuse it has sufferred

Or it may have been a loose connection in the plug or socket.