waterproofing showers

Discussion in 'Tiling' started by headwrap, 25 Dec 2008.

  1. Richard C

    Richard C

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    What exactly did he use the plaster on; did he repair/re-plastered existing block work or plaster over new/existing plasterboard?

    It’s perfectly OK to use WP1 over finishing plaster but the plaster must be thoroughly dry first – at least 4 weeks if it’s finish over base plaster. If you have block work walls, the best possible surface to tile over would be to re-plaster with base coat & finish or even re-skim existing finishing plaster if it not very good but the plaster must be applied properly & be reasonably flat or it’ll make the tillers job much more difficult especially with large tiles.
     
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  3. headwrap

    headwrap

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    many thanks Richard and all who have responded to my plea for help since Christmas. I now feel I am pretty much an expert on putting in a shower with all this advice and all the research I have done myself. I am shocked though by my builder. He didn't give a s...! and he was a friend of a friend - I got to know him because I fell in love with his dog and looked after it for 2 weeks when he was on holiday. Anway I have now filled the gap between shower tray and wall with expandable foam, put a layer of silicone over that when dry. Applied sealux and BALWP1 to walls, after rubbing down bumps and using filler to fill all cracks, rough patches, sanded down again. I'm pretty pleased and have a tiler in today to do the tiles for me. Hope he makes a good job. Just praying the builder plumbed in the shower tray properly after all this! best wishes,
     
  4. kim119

    kim119

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    Hi im sorry to hear you've had such a headache with your shower but i must admit im concerned........ When you use wp1 you have to let it dry for 24 hours but then your surpose to tile it!!!!! Bal don't recommend leaving it for more than a few days as dust and other such stuff can build on it and then it may fail anyway...... im not a builder but your right if the surface isnt flat then your tiles will struggle to hang on unless you use 200/300 or smaller, ceramic ideally and then if the walls only out by a few mm it can be sorted with adhesive atleast.....Your best bet is to phone the bal technical help line which will be able to both advise and assist you with this and the number should be either on the box or on there web site............... Sorry to be the bearer off bad news but i hope it works out. :p
     
  5. Richard C

    Richard C

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    Unfortunately you tend to learn the hard way. It sounds a bit sad but I no longer trust anyone until they prove to me thay are worthy of it & the fact they are friends or even relatives means absolutely nothing as I've found out to considerable personal expense; even that is no gaurantee of loyalty or commitment, particularly if money is involved. :cry: Good luck with it anyway & come back if you need more. ;)
     
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  7. gcol

    gcol

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    Balls.
     
  8. RobinClay

    RobinClay

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    Well... a year on, and how did it all work out ?
     
  9. Richard C

    Richard C

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    Who the hell knows :confused: ; headwrap is probably no longer interested & none of the others post any longer except me! Do you have a reason for asking?
     
  10. RobinClay

    RobinClay

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    Just curious.... ;)
     
  11. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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    If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

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