watts and amps

The plug was a moulded one. I cut it off. Cannot get into it to see fuse.
In that case it is probably NOT just a plug. More likely to be some kind of transformer or voltage converter.

Before something or someone is destroyed, please provide more information:

Why was the plug cut off?
Is this TV designed for the UK market?
Can you post a picture of the 'plug' which was cut off?
 
All this talk of TV cables catching fire and 'killing all', is an ignorant nonsense.

Television sets have internal fuses to protect the various components within. The plug-top fuse serves only to protect the mains flex from mechanical damage (short circuit fault).

It isn't possible to 'overload' a TV, because it's a fixed load with no possibility of adding to that load, so the main consideration for the fuse size is that of a short-circuit fault to the flex.

Take a pair of side cutters to a TV flex and you'll find that the plug-top fuse will go 'bang' regardless of whether it's a 3, 5, 7 or 13 Amp fuse fitted.

This is a peculiar British hang-up, because most countries use unfused plugs with the only (typical) back-up of a 16 Amp MCB for the radial socket circuit.

There's no doubting that old (CRT) TV's are prone to catching fire due to an internal overheating fault, but I very much doubt that anyone here could cite an incidence of the actual supply flex going into meltdown.
 
TV bought new in Europe: As it had a two-pin plug it was used for a while in UK with an adaptor plug. I decided to cut the moulded plug off and fit a regular plug. I have just checked the adaptor plug - it has a 3amp fuse.

SOOOO : 220-240V divided by 85 watts = not a 3amp but a 5amp fuse needed (which someone at the start of this dialogue kindly suggested).

As most elec. items have moulded plugs - why should it be anything other than a regular plug ?

I will now go purchase a 5amp fuse.
 
As it was not sold into the UK market, the instruction booklet did not include the typical paragraph I quoted. Only the UK and countries with a historical association use our wonderful fused plug.

BTW
SOOOO : 220-240V divided by 85 watts
Actually, it's 85W divided by 240v, which is 0.35 Amp approx power requirementc (less than some light bulbs) but the flex is probably rated at 5A. JVC and other TV manufacturers seem to recommend a 5A fuse in their UK instruction manuals
 
SOOOO : 220-240V divided by 85 watts = not a 3amp but a 5amp fuse needed (which someone at the start of this dialogue kindly suggested).

.

WHY COME ON HERE AND ASK FOR ADVICE AND THEN IGNORE IT???


WE KNOW ABOUT ELECTRICITY, YOU DO NOT.

If you did, then you would know that Power = Volts x amps

So amps = power/volts. so your current will be 85/230 = 0.369amps

That is a third of an amp, not three amps. :roll:

Got it? 3 amp fuse. BS1363 plug.

That is assuming the thing you cut off is just a plug, and not a power supply
 
Thank you all for your help everyone who showed the patience to respond. I am just a humble lay-person, but you can see that between the gent in the electrical dept at B&Q and the varied replies here . . . one could be forgiven for falling into confusion.

And no ! Taylortwocities, the thing I cut off wasn't a plug - it was a direct power line to the Sellafield top security control !!

Goodness, how can such a simple request have generated such large capital letters and so much heat ? Rest assured - I shall tattoo the formula for calculating size of fuse onto my forearm so that it will always from now on be to hand.
 
I don't know about JVC, but on Panasonic TVs the "plug" incorporates a mains filter and they say you should not cut it off, but use an adaptor if you have a different sort of socket.
 
Dear JohnD - just as I thought I was on home ground you bring up the subject of a Mains Filter !!!

You are correct in that my JVC booklet, being geared to a European market, has no mention of any fuse guidance.

I take on board that you say JVC recommends 5amp fuses for their TVs . . . now how do I find out if my CUT OFF 2-pin plug had such mains filtering properties ? I think I'll give JVC a call to get clear on that. As you see from above, I was using an adaptor and just thought to tidy things up abit and just have the one plug (can I hear Taylortwocities grinding his teeth ?) We live and learn, hopefully !

Thank you very much indeed for your input.
 
You can downoad instruction and installation guides from http://www.jvc.co.uk/support.php

Your model does not seem to be sold into the UK market but there might be a near-identical model that is. Try ones with same number but a different suffix.
 
I found the manual easy to download here and as already said rated as 85W Max and 220-240vac 50Hz so less than 1 amp so one could fit a 1A fuse in the plug.

However the fuse in the plug is only to protect the cable as already stated and we have two preferred sizes 3A and 13A so normally one would fit a 3A fuse. The plugs are available with 3A or 13A fuses pre-fitted and both 3A and 13A fuses are easy to buy.

Fuses can be got as 1A, 2A, 3A, 5A, 7A, 10A and 13A but all other than 3A and 13A would normally need getting from specialist supplier like RS Components or Farnall and unlikely to be found in B&Q.

To get flex to melt would need a prolonged overload and to be able to get that load of more than 3A but less than 13A over a prolonged period is very unlikely and it is very unlikely it would ever cause a fire.

The rules state that flex must never be covered and that where an appliance requires overload protection it has to be included in the appliance and one should not rely on the fuse in the plug so for enough load to be placed on a cable for the cable to catch fire or melt would need a series of rules to be broken not just one.

Most of these sets are supplied for use in Europe with a 16A plug and no fuse and to say an appliance designed to be plugged into a 16A supply would be dangerous if plugged into a 13A supply i.e. 13A fuse instead of 3A is rather short sighted.

As to globe trotters bring their TV's with them I did both from Falklands and Hong Kong and the only problem I had was in UK the duel language would no longer work. I could only get English or Welsh according to program tuned into and it would no longer give me Cantonese. But I am sure that was due to broadcast not due to receiver!!!!!!!

So the IET in their book on inspecting and testing of in-service electrical equipment tell use with flex under 1.25mm sq use 3A fuse and for rest 13A fuse. However we all should know.
1A = 230W Max
2A = 460W Max
3A = 690W Max
5A = 1150W Max
7A = 1610W Max
10A = 2300W Max
13A = 2990W Max
I told my children to go one size up with motors and transformers so a 550W drill would have a 5A not 3A fuse. But 85W come on that needs a 2.7 times overload to blow even a 1A fuse. That's not going to happen.

Yes it should have a 3A fitted but no real danger even with 13A fitted anything which causes cable overload is likely to be short circuit and that will blow a 13A fuse even with 0.75mm sq cable which is smallest flex permitted.

A 15A fuse wire is 0.5mm diameter see table 51.3 so that's 3.14159 x 0.25 squared or 0.2mm squared so 0.75 cable is 3.8 times the cross sectional area of even a 15A fuse do you really think it will melt before the fuse blows?
 
now how do I find out if my CUT OFF 2-pin plug had such mains filtering properties ?
You could read it again...
The plug was a moulded one. I cut it off. Cannot get into it to see fuse.

Written on the plug on one side is : Noise Filter 25A 250V
On the other side : HPF 2x500(squiggle)H


AND . . . it was a B&Q ELECTRICAL chap that I asked advice from.
Was this him?:

bqanimws1.gif
 

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