Looks much better from what can be seen with one photo.
But why the underground elbow?
But why the underground elbow?
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WC into understairs pantry - nightmare
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Leave what you have alone. I don't know how many more times you want it said. You have contravened several building regs, a mess is fine.
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This...
...is going into a bit of 110cm piping which is going into...
...which is going into the waste hole in the floor
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Doubt the building inspectors are coming to fix it when it leaks or blocks - hence the work to ensure it doesn't.
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Not sure I know the difference between underground/overground fittings (other than the colour), This piping work is going to be underneath a raised wooder floor in the garage. But pls do tell if you can think of anything else, I doubt I have the energy to do anything as am currently losing the will with this project.
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As an update - I opted for the below adjustable fitting (raving reviews) to try and get it done yesterday. At first it seemed ideal for the job...
Small 110mm pipe between the bottom end of the adjustable elbow to the drain connector in the floor.
Able to compensate with the adjustability...
Seemed to line things up nicely with more of the wall taken away and the adjustability of the elbow...
Waste WC pipe now seems quite central to the 90deg WC pan connector....
BUT..... after a couple of flushes noticed its leaking....
Made sure the drain connector boss was tight, but think its coming from the adjustable pipe joints...
Undid the adjustable joints and screwed them tighter, and "seems" be water tight when flushed. Its hard to get them tight and not sure if there is a rubber seal within those adjustable joints?
The double socket solid elbow is probs better, but I would rather stick with this adjustable thing if I can make it work rather than trying to take it all apart again (small sections of 110mm piping don't come out of the fitting sockets easily).
Unsure if these double socket adjustable elbows are used much and reliable? Should I just use jointing compound (or something else) to sure up those adjusting joints screw threads??
Small 110mm pipe between the bottom end of the adjustable elbow to the drain connector in the floor.
Able to compensate with the adjustability...
Seemed to line things up nicely with more of the wall taken away and the adjustability of the elbow...
Waste WC pipe now seems quite central to the 90deg WC pan connector....
BUT..... after a couple of flushes noticed its leaking....
Made sure the drain connector boss was tight, but think its coming from the adjustable pipe joints...
Undid the adjustable joints and screwed them tighter, and "seems" be water tight when flushed. Its hard to get them tight and not sure if there is a rubber seal within those adjustable joints?
The double socket solid elbow is probs better, but I would rather stick with this adjustable thing if I can make it work rather than trying to take it all apart again (small sections of 110mm piping don't come out of the fitting sockets easily).
Unsure if these double socket adjustable elbows are used much and reliable? Should I just use jointing compound (or something else) to sure up those adjusting joints screw threads??
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Ch..ch..changes...
Got a double socket 92.5 deg elbow and knocked more off the wall, lifting the elbow with a 110mm pipe between elbow and drain connector.
Maybe 3rd time lucky?
Got a double socket 92.5 deg elbow and knocked more off the wall, lifting the elbow with a 110mm pipe between elbow and drain connector.
Maybe 3rd time lucky?
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On the pantry side...
Solid pan connector into the 110mm pipe. Hoping nothing leaks out of that connection now as the pan connector fins have been in and out of the 110mm pipe and so not sure if they are going to seal now.
Also that 110mm pipe has less fall now. I understand the fall on soil is only required to be 1/40 - 1/110 - seems little but just followed the elbow gradient.
Could not figure out why some 110mm swept elbows are 87.5 degrees and some are 92.5 degrees and the angles look exactly the same when next to each other?
These adjustable joints are great - but I am sure the o-rings will need cleaning and servicing after a couple of years as the dirt will make them less flexible - once elasticity lost any movement will create leaks. Servicing when inaccessible is not an option, so it had to go.
Solid pan connector into the 110mm pipe. Hoping nothing leaks out of that connection now as the pan connector fins have been in and out of the 110mm pipe and so not sure if they are going to seal now.
Also that 110mm pipe has less fall now. I understand the fall on soil is only required to be 1/40 - 1/110 - seems little but just followed the elbow gradient.
Could not figure out why some 110mm swept elbows are 87.5 degrees and some are 92.5 degrees and the angles look exactly the same when next to each other?
These adjustable joints are great - but I am sure the o-rings will need cleaning and servicing after a couple of years as the dirt will make them less flexible - once elasticity lost any movement will create leaks. Servicing when inaccessible is not an option, so it had to go.
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At long last....
25mm over a metre is 1:40.
92.5º/87.5º are the same angle, the Manufacturers like confusing People.
The adjustable bends are the same as any other soil or underground fitting, fit and forget. They don't need 'servicing'!
25mm over a metre is 1:40.
92.5º/87.5º are the same angle, the Manufacturers like confusing People.
The adjustable bends are the same as any other soil or underground fitting, fit and forget. They don't need 'servicing'!
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Fanks for reply, but how the heck does any manufacture call an obtuse angle 87.5º?
Small leak porbs don't matter underground and maybe little chance of pipe movement.
But it leaked after a day - and if under a future inaccessible raised floor, its a smell risk compared to a solid fixed swept elbow.
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Hi, just a quick question... need to make a door from hallway into the new WC.
In the WC there is plywood, 5cm gap in which there is a wooded subframe - and that decorative wood panelling in the hallway.
Actually will have to take a bit of a corner off - for the stairs....
Plan was to take off the ply, drill some holes around as guides - use a saw (don't have multi-cutter) and cut out the wood panelling. Then stick this onto a cut-out door, build a simple frame around it, hinge it up - so it looks like a hidden door thing. Sounds like an OK plan?
Key question: are these cheap doors able to be cut - or are they honeycomb or empty inside and will fall apart if cut?
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Flush-Primed-Paint-Grade-Internal-Door---1981mm/p/9000279706
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Geneva-White-Grained-Moulded-Cottage-Internal-Door/p/9000218647
Any other gotchas?
In the WC there is plywood, 5cm gap in which there is a wooded subframe - and that decorative wood panelling in the hallway.
Actually will have to take a bit of a corner off - for the stairs....
Plan was to take off the ply, drill some holes around as guides - use a saw (don't have multi-cutter) and cut out the wood panelling. Then stick this onto a cut-out door, build a simple frame around it, hinge it up - so it looks like a hidden door thing. Sounds like an OK plan?
Key question: are these cheap doors able to be cut - or are they honeycomb or empty inside and will fall apart if cut?
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Flush-Primed-Paint-Grade-Internal-Door---1981mm/p/9000279706
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Geneva-White-Grained-Moulded-Cottage-Internal-Door/p/9000218647
Any other gotchas?
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Thanks for past replies about the correct piping.... but do we have a now have a problem?....
The correct piping has led to the soil stack being 38cm high(!)
The floor in this garage room will be raised to Kitchen/Pantry level and then a shower put where the soil stack is.
A additional plinth will now have to be put in 16cm high from the new floor (and probably another 4cm-8cm for a slim line shower tray).
This would require a shower plinth step 20cm-24cm high to get into the shower. Is this a bit high for a shower step?
Would it make sense to re-think this piping. Perhaps a drain connector elbow (but with a boss).
With this connector the pipe height would be (118-40+55) = 133mm (13.3cm) which is below the new stud floor.
Would have to dig up a small trench in the pantry floor and fed the soil stack up into the WC.
This be the right thing to do? Getting a flush shower tray be better - or are there advantages in having a 20cm shower plinth above the new stud floor?
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