Cloakroom WC drainage plan

[swilli88]

getting close to D-day now, plenty of building supplies arrived today. quick question about connecting toilet pan to the pipe in the floor. My understanding is that the pans connectors (including the one linked above) slip into standard 110m pipe but what if i plan to terminate at floor level with a collar/socket from a push-fit 90degree?
1. would i be better to have a single collar 90 and have standard pipe diameter come out the floor?
2. or (like i saw on another thread) cut a small section of soil pipe ti slip into the push fit and then pop the pan connector into that?

is this clear or should i add illustration?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Can get the 'Pancon' connectors which are a 110mm spigot. Personally prefer them as the outlet section doesnt reduce in diameter. I fitted on on my downstairs WC, and have never had an issue with that pan clearing on the first flush. https://www.bes.co.uk/pancon-90-s-toilet-pan-connector-110mm-12720/

 

[swilli88]

Oh i like that. do they do those pancon with a boss for 32mm?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Unfortunately seems not, but there are ways around that, if absolutely stuck, look at fitting a mechanical boss connector to the pan connector. (The solvent weld type will not work due to the pan connector being Polypropylene.) https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/...nn110-blc-mechanical-soil-pipe-boss-connector

 

[swilli88]

@Hugh Jaleak the man with all the answers! some man! thanks. will look into it. But essentially leaving the collar/socket of a push fit fitting more or less flush with the concrete floor is the way to go? then whatever pan connector solution after that

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

@Hugh Jaleak But essentially leaving the collar/socket of a push fit fitting more or less flush with the concrete floor is the way to go? then whatever pan connector solution after that

It's what I try and do. Think it looks neater than a stub of pipe sticking up and a finned connector stuffed into that.

 

[swilli88]

hi @Hugh Jaleak again.

Quick for you again. So i have all my parts for the basin waste. all the solvent bends are ABS but the pipe i have is PVC-U.

Is it ok to use solvent weld to weld the ABS bends to PVC-U pipe?? Iv found some conflicting (but limited) advice on the web. I also took one of the spare ABS joints and a bit of the PVC-U pipe and solvent welded them together. Im a fairly strong fella now and I couldnt in all my strenght come close to pulling them apart afterwards. It seemed like it was a very successful weld. Is there anything im missing or do I need to try and source ABS pipe?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I've always believed you shouldn't/cant mix the 2, for what it costs, I'd just buy some ABS waste pipe and not take the risk, but if your trial joints are holding and you're happy to trust it, then carry on. Ultimately it will never hold any pressure, the only flow will be when the basin is used. If it can be easily accessed in the event of a problem, then if an issue arises, just replace it.

 

[swilli88]

yes you are probably right! cost not as much of an issue as sourcing the abs pipe itself in dublin! seems to mostly pvc. will keep looking, thanks

 

[swilli88]

@Hugh Jaleak which of these soil pipe routes would you take? it shows the stack top left of image outside the house and the location of the toilet outlet at bottom of the image and a doorwat that the trencht needs to go through. Theres a couple options of the trench route in the concrete.

1. keep the simplest cut route with a 30 degree bend to take it straigh through middle of doorway and striaght out the wall and then 90 deg to stack. the thinking with this is making the trench easier to manage and not being close to doorway or walls. Hole through the wall would be straight through
2.Straight all the way to the stack from the pan. this is simple in a way but make the trench very tight to doorway on the right side and the hole through outer wall is at an angle. Also theres an added complication that that it would need to go under the wall to the left of the living room. this might be trickey to dig out under and also could be tricky to make the joint at the stack
3.similar ish with 15 deg closer to the stack. not sure this one give either benefit

would like to get your pick. I plan to start this tomorrow morning!

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I'd personally take the third, (right hand) route. Straight is preferable, but I'd be wary of compromising the strength of the wall on that corner, so that leaves the requirement for a bend. Route One should be ok, a 30° bend shouldn't cause too many issues. I cant remember now if the stack you're connecting to is external, but assuming it is, (and it hasn't been suggested already), fit an Access bend where the pipe comes through the wall and turns to enter the stack. Any issues should be able to be dealt with from there should the need ever arise.

Good Luck and enjoy your project.

 

[swilli88]

@Hugh Jaleak thanks a million! cant thank you enought for your advice during my planning! really appreciate it! if i knew who and where you were i would send ya a bottle of wine

 

[swilli88]

@Hugh Jaleak I know i keep saying/hinting towards it being the last question but im afraid i have another! sorry

upon closer inspection with the right fittings to connect to stack (the stack is outside correct, see image) i have now got a little less confidence of achieving the necessary fall because of how far the collar at the stack is above the ground. You can see what I mean in the picture.

As you can also see though, the AJ is very close by (see pictures). The backup if i cant get the fall connecting to the stack is to tie in directly to the AJ. If that is the case can you advise on how to do that.

The option 3 you suggested in previous Q would essentially come straight out the wall roughly where the AJ is. Is the any issue if it comes straight into the aj without 'pointing' in the direction of the flow somewhat like the current connection from stack?

Would really appreciat input again as im about to start sawing and the route might differ slightly

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

My concern around connecting into that chamber as you propose would be waste matter fouling the benching on the opposite side of the chamber. If you are going to break the concrete out to fit another connection, given the shallow depth of the sewer, I would seriously consider digging that small chamber out and replacing the entire thing with a alternative that offers 5 inlets, e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-5-inlet-mac-chamber-base-black-270mm/43356

This will offer you 2 inlets on the required side to make both connections correctly, and hopefully less risk of a build of of crud which, left unchecked, could build up and block the chamber. Very surprised this isn't already happening given the position of the current stack connection. Must admit, I haven't seen a chamber of that type before.

 

[swilli88]

@Hugh Jaleak funnily enough whenever i open the chamber there is a bit of fouling stuck on the bench opposite the current connection as you suspected but never seems to block (not in the 3 months living here anyway )

that seems like a big auld job replacing that inspection chamber though, is it a lot more work?. does this thing just connect to 110mm sewer pipe on the outlet side? that it?

What about venting the new line if i go with a new seperate route to the inspection chamber? I dont have space in the plans behind the toilet for a durgo..?