weber.set SPF

[tpt]

I can definately beat that! Bal is great stuff but granfix is very well respected in the trade too

http://www.tradepricetiles.co.uk/ad...le-tile-adhesive-grey-20kg-free-delivery.html This works out at £8.09 +vat

or

http://www.tradepricetiles.co.uk/ad...et-tile-adhesive-grey-20kg-free-delivery.html at £9.66 +vat

Free delivery on either. full pallet is 55 bags.

For Anhydrite screed with a UFH i'd suggest the blue bag (rapid set) as its an S2 adhesive with better flexibility.

Can also supply the acrylic if you need it

from the spec sheet:
Anhydrite Floor Screeds: Ensure surface is clean and free from
loose matter. Seal the surface with 2 neat coats of Granfix
Acrylic Bonding and Priming Agent.

 

[tpt]

forgot to say, whatever you use make sure the UFH is commissioned first, then turned off until the slab is cold. After laying dont use the UFH for 48hrs.

 

[tpt]

sorry just saw richard beat me to that

The UFH should already have been commissioned & been in operation to allow the screed to settle down. It should be turned off & allowed to cool for at least 48 hours before tiling & allow at least 48 hours before you turn it back on at the lowest setting for 24 hours, then slowly increase up to operating temperature over several days.

Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/tiling/weberset-spf.305995/#ixzz1iVOjpkS5[quote][/QUOTE]

 

[paulpa]

Hi Thanks for the offer.
I decided to go with bal single part flex.
Thought i,d better pay for the "name" as i,m no pro and i,m on Anhydrite and its a big area. Hoping the expense is justified. Busy doing the prep. Sanding, sanding,sanding.
Oh and watching Youtube for some tips lol

 

[paulpa]

Why do Bal contradict the APD installation guide.
Here
Prime with 2 coats neat BAL Prime APD or BAL Primer and allow to dry. Then fix tiles with BAL Single Part Flexible or BAL Rapidset Flexible
http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/technical/faq#q8

Yet an email from tech support say 1 coat diluted 1:1 then a neat coat at 90 degrees to 1st coat.

So is the diluted or 2 x neat coats?
Also says here
Anhydrite (calcium sulphate) screeds must dry sufficiently before priming: i.e. less than 0.5% water by weight, measured by a Speedy moisture detector. Priming is essential (two coats of undiluted BAL Prime APD are ideal) before tiling to avoid the risk of ettringite formation. This salt can be destructive to cement-based adhesive systems.

http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/mediacentre/article14

 

[Richard C]

It should be 2 coats undiluted over Anhydrite as far as I'm aware; their top 10 Q/A sheet states so, as does the media centre & the detail technical data sheet here;
http://194.223.92.131/pdf/Technical Data Sheets/B & C Technical Data Sheets/BAL_Prime_APD.pdf

Sounds like the E mail is a mistake but you could always embarrass them by asking for clarification.

 

[paulpa]

I Did, they now say first diluted as the screed can suck it in too much. However they said an un diluted would be fine too on both coats.

Part of email:
"The first coat of primer should be diluted 1:1 by volume with water and allowed to dry to the touch before applying a second undiluted coat at 90° to the first.

Allow the second coat to dry prior to the commencement of tiling."

 

[tpt]

Yep i'd agree. granfix specify the same.

We also have an issue with conflicting advice at times from technical support lines, i suppose once you have a human involved its open to mistakes

 

[paulpa]

FWIW: Weber say,
"Seal the floor with weber PR360 repeatedly until no more is absorbed and allow the primer to dry before tiling (1 hour)."
But that is the Weber product not the Bal obviously.
I guess just make sure it is well covered.

Starting to think a carpet would have been easier and less worry

Managed to get feedback from Gyvlon too about the screed. They say it is a misconception that the floor needs grinding back as some boards have said that i read. Apparently as we all agree, a good sand with 60 grit paper is enough. You only need to create a good key with no dust.

 

[tpt]

Yep we supplied for two large Gyvlon installations recently. its basically because it can be very shiny, your just trying to break the very smooth sheen into a keyable surface.

 

[paulpa]

Not having access to a moisture tester. Last night i taped some cling film to the floor in several areas. Removed today and had no sign of moisture ( under floor heating was not run).
Is this a good sign as to moisture content or not really?
If not any idea where one could be hired. HSS only do the basic damp tester.

 

[tpt]

it would usually be done by the contractor who installed the floor. might be worth a conversation with them

 

[paulpa]

ok, i,ll give it a go.
With the trowel sizes.
I have a 20mm (width of notched) round trowel with 15mm depth and centres approx 28mm,

and the same but 20mm notched with 10mm depth and approx 20mm centres.

I know earlier it was said to use the first mention, but it looks a bit big. Would the second be ok too?

 

[Richard C]

The smaller trowel (10mm notch) is a solid thick bed trowel & would normally be used for tiles up to 30 x 30cm but can be pushed slightly larger if you have a perfectly flat floor; but, as I said before, you should be using a large format trowel on that size tile - 13mm deep notches. Your other trowel with 15mm notch depth is a slightly larger but, as you have UFH, I would still go with the larger one. You can always lay the addy on at a slightly lower angle than 45 degrees but, with UFH, you really need to maintain a minimum 3mm solid adhesive bed under the tiles & if the floor isn't perfectly flat, it may not be possible with 60cm tiles.

 

[paulpa]

Thanks Richard,
Would it still be worth a flat skim on back of tiles too?
p.s Why don't they do a 30cm long trowel, would make life easier on 30 x 60 tiles. (or do they?)