What Amp rating for the kitchen?

[craigap]

Hi

Recevntly had the CU upgraded from a 2way wired box to a split load RCB box. The sparky has speperated the rings/radials as you would expect, but has put the kitchen on a 16A breaker, with the ceramic hob on a seperate breaker. The problem comes when we have the around 4 applicances on at the same time (washer, dryer, cooker, microwave, etc) the breaker then trips. Is this normal, or is the breaker too loow for a kitchen?

I will be calling him back to look at it but wanted to be pre-armed.

CP

 

[LoveRocket]

16amps is certainly not enough for a kitchen.

Is this a 2.5mm radial? If it is, then it should be OK on a B20, but it depends how the cable is installed.

Even then, 20a isn't really enough for a kitchen. Ideally, I'd have a 20amp radial for appliances (W/M, D/W etc) and another 20amp radial for sockets.

 

[craigap]

Thanks. That is what I suspected. Keep getting it in the neck from OH about more issues with new box than old one, etc, etc.

Not 100% sure, but I think its a ring on 2.5mm.

I think the box may be one of those you get the breakers with it, hence not enought 20Amp breakers upwards!!!

CP

 

[MalcofArabia]

Does seem to be a bit small he may have found the sockets in the kitchen was a radial fed by a 2.5mm but even then he could have stretched it to a 20a

When he gave you your EIC and schedules did he not go over the system with you and explain what was on where and why he did it. IF I had found what I highligted above I would recommend upgrading the kitchen as it is low.

There again he might have just made a simple mistake and fitted the wrong protection device. The schedule of results will tell you what he fitted and if it says 16a then by all means call him and ask why.

 

[craigap]

I dont have the certificate yet as there is a cable that needed replacing before he could issue it, along with the hod cable being run in, which I have just changed over for him.

CP

 

[LoveRocket]

If it's a ring circuit on 2.5mm then a B32 is the norm.

Something's not right here. Was it a proper, qualified electrician that did this job, did he give you an Electrical Installation Certificate?

 

[craigap]

He definately checked out, but no certificate yet due to having to come back and certify a couple of things.

Thanks

CP

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Have you paid him?

 

[mimic58]

if he still has work to do i wouldnt panic i never issue certs untill every part of the job is finished and tested so if you have added extras there is no point in him certificating only to have to re certificate after hes finished

However if you dont get one after the job is complete then worry

he might have temporarily turned the Ring main into two radials on 20amp breakers untill he is able to repair the damaged leg and put it back on a 32, If he leaves you with a 20 amp you want to winge because it will be tripping constantly when you use the ktichen

 

[flameport]

I think the box may be one of those you get the breakers with it

That's not good.
Suggests it was a B&Q special offer, rather than something which was actually suitable for the installation.

 

[electronicsuk]

I think the box may be one of those you get the breakers with it

That's not good.
Suggests it was a B&Q special offer, rather than something which was actually suitable for the installation.

I think it's a bit soon to be be assuming that, as we don't know enough about the kitchen circuit and cable run. If it's an existing circuit and the customer didn't want the place ripping to bits, there could be a very valid reason for using a 16A OCPD.

Even if the circuit was upped to 20A, using a washer, dryer, cooker and microwave at the same time is going to overload it. Come to think of it, you'd be pushing a 32A circuit as well if they were all to ever draw FLC at the same time.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

That's not good.
Suggests it was a B&Q special offer, rather than something which was actually suitable for the installation.

Oh come on - plenty of wholesalers also sell fully loaded boards.

 

[craigap]

Thanks for all your replies, however I dont know where he got it from, but it is loaded using Wylex MCB's. I am not doubting the quality of the install and indeed there may be a valid reason, but just didnt tell me why it is a 16Amp. He didnt mention having to replace teh kitchen circuit or that there may be issues. Also, I assume other than getting the correct sized fuses most boxes are suitable?

All will come out when he comes back in about a weeks time to connect up the hob, etc.

CP

 

[mimic58]

hmm did he specifically say the entire kitchen is on a 16 amp ? I really cant see any qualified sparky in their right mind ever doing this i mean christ the ketle alone is 13 amps then you got your microwave dishwasher etc there is no way in hell a 16s ever going to hold in... I would ask the guy thats installed it i mean their maybe a couple of sockets in the kitchen that are on a 16 amp radial and the rest are on a 32amp ring ,the 16 might just be for one point or something


With regard to wylex consumer units , They are generally very good and one i usualy tend to fit out or preference