what amp to use on fuses

What about Ohm's law?

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5/6amp lighting

30/32 for radial/ring

Cooker depends on so many variations

Shower generally 40 to 45amp

Too many variations to say if this is correct or not though!

By the way how long is a piece of string? Do you get the idea?

Ib (Design current) should be lower then In (protective device) - design current Must not exceed current setting for Fuse


Thanks, Sorry made a spelling mistake above buy should be by, any way is all this information on the 17th edition regulations, which you told me? or if you know a good book with case studies please let me know. Many thanks
 
Start reading here, learn how complex the design process is.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html?

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/8.6.2.htm

If the "electrician" you use to sign your certificate does not see every piece of cable before it is buried in plaster then it is very unlikely he will sign it.

The reason being that if he signs it and then a fault you make that he could not see causes a fire with loss of house or life then he could be taken to court by the insurance company ( you are insured aren't you ) to recover the costs from him. Or the insurance company may refuse to pay as the certificate's validity would be in doubt.
 
Start reading here, learn how complex the design process is.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html?

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/8.6.2.htm

If the "electrician" you use to sign your certificate does not see every piece of cable before it is buried in plaster then it is very unlikely he will sign it.

The reason being that if he signs it and then a fault you make that he could not see causes a fire with loss of house or life then he could be taken to court by the insurance company ( you are insured aren't you ) to recover the costs from him. Or the insurance company may refuse to pay as the certificate's validity would be in doubt.

This is inspiring, thanks.
 
Well, what's this forum for if you fo not reply. I am making sure, I know some stuff, I will have a NICEIC engineer out before I get it passed .

Passed by who?

Have you checked the NIC eng. will do this for you?

Fact is, you cannot do this work unless you are competent & follow the LABC rules.

Shower generally 40 to 45A??

Have you any idea how that can be affected by the route of the cable or how it is installed?

6mm2 T&E, which has a maximum CCC of 47A, can be effectively halved under certain conditions.
 
t I will do all the wiring then show the qualified electrician then I will get the certificate!!!

It has been said many time on this forum, and we are very bored with saying it and that is why you are getting a bad response.

A registered electrician is only permitted to self certify and notify electrical works that he has done himself.

He will sign an installation certificate that states:


I/we, being the person/s responsible for the design, construction, inspection and testing of the electrical installation (as indicated by my/our signature/s below, particulars of which are described above, having exercised reasonable skill and care when carrying out the design, construction, inspection and testing hereby Certify that the design, construction, inspection and testing work for which I/we have been responsible is, to the best of my/our knowledge and belief, in accordance with BS 7671: 2008

You "chosen" electrician will not sign this declaration as he will not have done any of the design, construction, inspection parts. He'll just have a test to do so signing the document would be fraud. Nobody will do that.

You have two choices:
1. Use a registered spark to do the work. He may have you do much of the work, under his guidance.

2. Notify the local authority that you will be doing the work. They will inspect the work that YOU are doing at various stages and will want to see a fully tested installation with test results showing compliance with BS7671. For this you will need a full working knowledge of wiring and building regulations and a full set of calibrated test equipment that will carry out the following tests as a minimum

Continuity
Insulation Resistance at 500volts DC
Loop Impedance
RCD Operation Parameters
and (maybe) Earth Electrode Impedance

More info is here http://www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part_p:diy_electrical_work_and_the_law
 
I am surprised, nay, shocked, that BAS has not come into this discussion with all guns blazing!

I am sure many have said this before. Electricity is inherently dangerous. You cannot see it, you cannot smell it. You can only see the results of a flow of electric current, in that a light comes on, a heater heats up, etc. Whan a fault occurs, it goes unnoticed until its results are seen or felt. Many see electrical installations as just two wires to be kept apart from each other (plus the earth or CPC of course) and genuinely believe that as it's only two wires anyone can do it. How different reality is!
 
Thanks for the message. I have no problem with English Sir, Sorry there were too many typos as I was proof reading it and accidently pressed the sent button.
you DO have a problem with english, it reads like Alexander the meerkat is typing it..

I am sure someone reply. Id you or someone else does not want then no problem. Unfortunately, I many people think negatively, I mentioned here that I will do all the wiring then show the qualified electrician then I will get the certificate!!! I think nothing wrong doing that and the diy forum is here to save money not for criticising!! I beleive everything is possibile when done systematically. I will do the reaserch which I am doing now, do the work then show the electrician, then do any corrections and then get the critificate. I hope you do not have any problem with that and if you do then I cannot help.
 
That you need to become competent to do the work, or let someone who is do it?
 
I have a old house and build extension.
When you applied for Building Regulations approval, what did you say would be the way that you would comply with Part P?


I got old fuse box. I need to change it also add new lighting etc to the new extensions inc. new loft.
  • For a circuit to supply a given load, how would you go about deciding what cable and protective device to use?

  • Do you know which circuits can be ring finals and which cannot, and what the advantages and disadvantages of each are?

  • Do you know what the two main lighting circuit topologies are, and what the advantages and disadvantages of each are?

  • How do you calculate maximum demand and how can diversity be used?

  • What are the 3 different types of domestic single-phase supplies provided in this country, how would you recognise them, and what differences do each make to the requirements for the rest of the installation, particularly any outdoor supplies?

  • Can you correctly identify all components and connections of a circuit by method of testing or otherwise? In doing so can you identify or recognise anything wrong or dangerous with the circuit?

  • Do you understand how the way in which you install cables affects how much current they can carry?

  • What are the rules concerning cables concealed in walls, partitions and under floors?

  • What are the rules for cables run outdoors, buried in the ground or overhead?

  • Where cables need to be joined, how should this be done / not be done and in what circumstances are different methods acceptable?

  • Can you identify extraneous conductive parts, and do you know the requirements for main and supplementary bonding of them?

  • Which circuits should be RCD protected?

  • How do you propose to isolate your supply so that you can connect up your new CU?

  • Do you know what tests you would carry out on the installation - what sequence you'd do them in and at what point you would energise the installation, and for each test do you know what is being measured, why it is important, how you would carry out the test, and with what equipment, and what sort of results you would expect to get if everything was OK?

Can somone tell what amp fuses to use for shower/lighting/cooker etc.

if you can send me a link or refer to a page of 17th edition regualtion document then it will be more helpful.
Why do you need that?

There's a perfectly good index at the end - if you don't know your way around it you need to spend more time studying it.
 

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