What Central Heating System do we Have?

[datasafe]

Hi guys

Please excuse my total ignorance of central heating!

Our heating isn't as effective as it once was ! I've checked most of the radiators today and while some are working well and uniformly warm top to bottom, others are warm at the bottom and cold at the top.

I'm guessing this means I need to bleed them?

If I allow air out of the radiator thereby allowing hot water in, how is the circuit 'topped up' with water?

We're thinking of getting a more modern system but when we're asked what system we have presently, I struggle to anser

Could some kind soul tell me what we have? Here's a few pictures:

The Fire with Potterton Boiler


Fire/Boiler Controls


Thermostat


Programmable Timer


All Sorts of Stuff


I'm guessing replacing all this for a more modern system will be expensive (3 bedroomed terraced house)?

Thanks

John

 

[45yearsagasman]

Going on pics you have a fully pumped open vented S plan system with a Potterton back boiler as the heat source. You will probably find a small tank in the loft which replenishes water and acts as an expansion tank.
You could replace that with a heat only wall mounted boiler and seal the system, thus doing away with the loft tank. That's a minimum upgrade, but you could spend more by fitting an unvented water cylinder. This would depend on a site survey to check water pressures etc and how deep your pockets are.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Don't rush into replacing your BBU for the sake of saving money. These boilers may be a little less efficient, but they are reliable and normally last a long time. Do the maths carefully, as the payback can be a long time coming if it ever does arrive.

Main thing with back boilers is an annual service to keep them clean internally. Doing this should mean a long life for the boiler.

As for the cool rads, yes cool rads at top is usually bleeding time. Turn system off and allow to cool. Open bleed valve on rad and close when air stops and water comes out. Cover carpets, etc with an old towel to protect from the water that comes out. The water in system will be automatically replaced from tank in loft.

If you wanted to spend money, maybe consider a more modern room stat, but if it works OK, no need to rush.

 

[Whitespirit66]

is usually bleeding time.

That reminds me of something.

 

[chantelle]

Keep your system,i have an old back boiler and hot water cylinder,wouldn`t change it for the world..added a pump for my power shower,happy days..your issues are with circulation not the heating system. My gas fire is the hottest muddafunker in the world! an old gas radiant,it`s the dog`s cahoonas! looks rubbish but all the heat is coming at me rather than goin up chimney. Modern gas fires cannot compete! trust me..

 

[ed110220]

Keep your system,i have an old back boiler and hot water cylinder,wouldn`t change it for the world..added a pump for my power shower,happy days..your issues are with circulation not the heating system. My gas fire is the hottest muddafunker in the world! an old gas radiant,it`s the dog`s cahoonas! looks rubbish but all the heat is coming at me rather than goin up chimney. Modern gas fires cannot compete! trust me..

Replacing a boiler of that age should cut your gas usage by about 28-33% for the same heat output. That's not including the heat loss and associated discomfort from having a gaping hole in the wall to supply it with air... remember the starting point for cutting heat loss is usually draughtproofing and that boilers vent will let in a gale compared with the average draught under a door etc.

To say keep/replace without doing the sums would be simplistic.

Ed

 

[misterdubya]

is usually bleeding time.

That reminds me of something.

I nearly fell off my chair!

 

[Whitespirit66]

The old ones are the best.

 

[cowley]

Going on pics you have a fully pumped open vented S plan system with a Potterton back boiler as the heat source. You will probably find a small tank in the loft which replenishes water and acts as an expansion tank.
You could replace that with a heat only wall mounted boiler and seal the system, thus doing away with the loft tank. That's a minimum upgrade, but you could spend more by fitting an unvented water cylinder. This would depend on a site survey to check water pressures etc and how deep your pockets are.

Isn't that a prv by the cylinder?.

 

[Gasguru]

No it's an auto bypass valve.

Whatever you DON'T bleed the rads before checking the feed tank in the roof is clean. Most will need baling and cleaning out first.