What is inside and outside the remit when doing an EICR?

[ericmark]

I would say supply to boiler is clearly to be tested, but what about items supplied from the boiler?

We would normally test supply to ceiling rose, but what when that supply comes from some appliance, be it a dimming switch, a transformer, a PIR or a smart switch, do we class it as part of the appliance, or part of the installation?

I have looked at my own house, I know because I fitted it, the Nest heat link only needs an earth if the thermostat is hard wired, as to how anyone who has not fitted Nest would know how to access wires behind the thermostat I don't know, it only pulls off but needs so force, you would be a brave man to tug that hard if you didn't know.

 

[OwainDIYer]

It's all part of the 230 volt fixed wiring. And you should be inspecting and testing to the lampholder terminals on a pendant, otherwise how do you know whether the polarity is correct (for ES), cord grip satisfactory etc.

For domestic immersion heaters I would regard them as part of fixed wiring to the heater terminals and check for correct polarity (stat in live) and earth to heater/cylinder. Also any electrician should be able to remove and replace the terminal cover competently. For appliances where access to the internal terminals may require special tools or knowledge, test to the FCU or isolator and visually inspect any flex. Test appliance case earth bonding in the case of fixed appliances such as heaters and hand dryers, but advise that this is not a substitute for an appliance test.

 

[Risteard]

The obvious answer as to what is within the remit and what is without the remit is to read the extent and (both agreed and operational) limitations. Whatever has been stated to be included is included, and whatever has been stated not to be included isn't.

There is no one-size-fits-all to periodic inspection and testing - circumstances and requirements vary.

 

[ericmark]

The question was raised about a house full of "Smart" devices, and the risk that testing may damage a device. And I had not really thought about it, most of my inspection and testing was done to items I normally worked on, I had a box full of adaptors to assist me, for example the plug that went into the Klik lighting socket, and OwainDIYer makes a good point about testing which was centre pin, it was not really ever tested, as the light was unplugged, socket tested and light plugged back in, no one ever PAT tested the light fitting, it was only tested when repaired, any fault and fitting changed, then worked on old one in workshop, where it would be tested, but no one though of entering it on the equipment register.

There was always an argument as to who tested the hand drier, as it needed to be isolated else where and locked off, so only way to test was to remove it and take to workshop.

 

[crystal ball]

The question was raised about a house full of "Smart" devices, and the risk that testing may damage a device. And I had not really thought about it, most of my inspection and testing was done to items I normally worked on, I had a box full of adaptors to assist me, for example the plug that went into the Klik lighting socket, and OwainDIYer makes a good point about testing which was centre pin, it was not really ever tested, as the light was unplugged, socket tested and light plugged back in, no one ever PAT tested the light fitting, it was only tested when repaired, any fault and fitting changed, then worked on old one in workshop, where it would be tested, but no one though of entering it on the equipment register.

There was always an argument as to who tested the hand drier, as it needed to be isolated else where and locked off, so only way to test was to remove it and take to workshop.

Then when the drier was re installed it should be re tested to check the connections, why not take the cover off and test it

 

[ericmark]

To make some thing live and leave the item with exposed electrical connections is not permitted, to make the circuit dead then remove it was not a problem, so to work on it live needed at least two electricians as one needed to remain at the hand drier location, and another needed to isolate while the FCU was removed, re-energise to test then isolate again for it to be replaced, live testing permitted, live working not.

And of course a method statement had to be written, and risk assessment done, if Sunday working was authorised then it would be tested in place as no factory workers would enter the toilet/shower room, but during normal working day it was a problem, specially in the ladies where we also needed some one to inform workers there was a man in the toilet.

In real terms we did an earth test, long lead to outside where there was a 13 amp socket and used PAT tester to test with 25 amp if earth was OK, it did not really tick all the boxes, but we considered if earth OK no one likely to get injured from it. It was replaced about every two years, and the old one stripped and cleaned to stop build up of dust, which could if not cleaned catch fire, seems well before I worked there, one had court fire.

However it was the Smart house which is the problem here, jumping back to Nest thermostat, it may be USB powered in which case no tests required, or it may be hard wired to heat link, in which case earth needs testing.

Risteard makes a good point, one needs to careful word the contract. So all wiring from consumer unit to local isolator or socket unless listed under extras, would seem to cover it, so if one wants to test immersion then OK but it's an extra. Today there are so many specials, I remember one guy insisting the cut out on the immersion heated did not comply as it could be reset, well since there was a metal header tank, hardly a problem if thermostat did stick, and unless you could reset the cut out every time solid fuel cooker used to bake bread, you would need new cut out.

I knew what he was going on about, and how a thermal plastic header tank had split killing a baby, but it did not have a thermal plastic header tank, and even if it did, it's not an electricians job to tell home owner he has wrong header tank for solid fuel water heating. OK maybe a comment, "Think you have wrong type of header tank installed, you need to check with heating engineer," may be prudent, but header tank type is not part of an EICR in my opinion.

I remove all items not marked BS1363 from sockets, specially so called socket protectors, and I put in notes unauthorised items found plugged into BS1363 sockets, these sockets may have been strained as a result, one should consider changing the sockets. And I have been told off for writing that down, told if the customer wants to use silly socket protectors even if fatally flawed that was up to them, nothing to do with me!