What is the best way to connect appliances in a kitchen?

[stem]

I am having my kitchen extended and wish to add a new ringmain (and before anyone asks, yes local building authority aware and will be inspecting the design & installation)

So down to the design. I have observed several different ways of connecting built in appliances such as washing machines, fridge, dishwasher etc.,

1. 13A Fused spur on ringmain located above worktop feeding down to a single socket outlet behind appliance.

2. As 1. above but with flex outlet behind appliance instead of socket.

3. Ringmain feeding set of 20A DP module type switches (unfused) pre-printed with appliance name feeding single socket outlet behind appliance.

Are there any advantages/disadvantages with any of these methods? would any one method be most likely to impress my LABC?

 

[Qedelec]

Any of the above are fine and depend upon personal preference.
LABC will be inpressed by a safe installation (and a cuppa).

 

[Har_vey]

Advantage of using socket outlets as opposed to flex outlets will become apparent if ever the appliance needs to be repaired/replaced.

 

[JohnD]

Method 1 is wrong because you have two fuses feeding each appliance. the ideal number of fuses per appliance is 1.

Method 2 is inconvenient when you want to pull your fridge out and scrape the dead mouse out of the back.

Method 3 is splendid. The sockets do not need to be switched as you already have one above. You can run your ring just above worktop height and install an almost infinite number of sockets and switches in a neat row, including some you currently think you don't need.

For the cooker hood an FCU and flex outlet at hood height looks better than a socket.

Pre-printed switches are correct, but quite expensive and you will probably forget to change them when you swap the position of your dishwasher and fridge. see if you can lay in a good stock of adhesive labels as well.

 

[JohnD]

Advantage of using socket outlets as opposed to flex outlets will become apparent if ever the appliance needs to be repaired/replaced.

"If?"

 

[ban-all-sheds]

1. 13A Fused spur on ringmain located above worktop feeding down to a single socket outlet behind appliance.

2. As 1. above but with flex outlet behind appliance instead of socket.

3. Ringmain feeding set of 20A DP module type switches (unfused) pre-printed with appliance name feeding single socket outlet behind appliance.

4. 4/6mm² radial feeding set of 20A DP module type switches pre-printed with appliance name and fuse modules feeding single 15A BS 546 socket outlets behind appliance, with unfused plugs used.

 

[stem]

Thanks for all the replies guys. Ban, why a radial?

 

[Har_vey]

Advantage of using socket outlets as opposed to flex outlets will become apparent if ever the appliance needs to be repaired/replaced.

"If?"

ok. when!

 

[jimbox]

15A sockets? is this some kind of sparky "in-joke"??!!

(yes I know there is such a thing as a 15A socket, but why on earth would you want one in the kitchen in this millennium!?)

 

[JohnD]

Innate eccentricity

 

[plugwash]

15A sockets? is this some kind of sparky "in-joke"??!!

because it allows the appliance to be removed if nessacery without hiding a fuse behind it.

 

[viewer]

About 5 years ago two friends had identical problems with their washing machines - the belts had slipped off; it had happened before so they knew what to do. Both had double sockets behind the machines. They reached behind, pulled out the plug, pulled out the machine just far enough to get the lid off and stuck their spanners in through the gap. Both discovered that they had pulled out the wrong plug. The boy felt a jolt and the RCCB tripped - phew! The girl wasn't so lucky - she had to have skin grafts for the next two years.
It proves the value of RCCBs, but also the advantage of single sockets.

 

[geezer]

Method 1 is wrong because you have two fuses feeding each appliance. the ideal number of fuses per appliance is 1.

.

we do this method all the tim on newbuilds whats exactly wrong with it? two fuses you mean one in the plug and one in the fcu? whats the problem?

 

[JohnD]

Method 1 is wrong because you have two fuses feeding each appliance. the ideal number of fuses per appliance is 1.

.

we do this method all the tim on newbuilds whats exactly wrong with it? two fuses you mean one in the plug and one in the fcu? whats the problem?

If you have two fuses of the same rating, they will both fail at the same time. You might test and replace one, then scratch your head wondering why the machine will still not run; anyway, you have twice the work and twice the cost.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Thanks for all the replies guys. Ban, why a radial?

Because you're only effectively serving one point - i.e. the bank of grid switches. If you have no other sockets on the ring then then you haven't really got a ring final - with the switches only a few cm apart, you've really got a parallel circuit, and the Q is why bother?

If you do have other sockets on the ring, then you're creating an imbalance in the form of several heavy loads very close together.

. . . . .

15A sockets? is this some kind of sparky "in-joke"??!!

(yes I know there is such a thing as a 15A socket, but why on earth would you want one in the kitchen in this millennium!?)

Because the plugs are unfused, therefore you have neither 2 fuses per device nor the hassle of fuses behind the device. Fuses in the gridplate mean that you can drop the cable size to each socket to 1.5mm².