What is the best way to connect appliances in a kitchen?

ban-all-sheds said:
...Phrases like "OK, then - find a qualified forensic egineer prepared to testify in court as an expert witness that moving the fuse from the plug to an accessory on the wall was the cause of the fault" would do the trick...

the response to which will be something like "I'll have to discuss this with the boss", then they'll **** off and make excuses not to come back. Why give yourself the hassle for the sake of a flippin fuse!
 
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JohnD said:
What, with the labelled DP isolator above the worktop? For a fridge????
That would be fine.

It would, of course, be an unfused spur, so you'd have to deal with the restrictions concerning the numbers of those....
 
ban-all-sheds said:
It would, of course, be an unfused spur, so you'd have to deal with the restrictions concerning the numbers of those....

I'd slip it in between a couple of these in your kitchen
socketwall2.JPG


(I think you should put some doorknobs on your cabinets, though)
 
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Ah the 'all electric kitchen' that was much sought after in bygone years... :LOL: Maybe you should consider using standard tiles on your bathroom wall ban... not only because of the BS7671 stance on BS1363 outlets not being allowed in bathrooms, but I imagine it could be quite painful when you come home from a night's drinking at 3am, stumble into the bathroom suitably ****ed to relieve yourself... :eek: :LOL:
 
Ah well, firstly that's a kitchen, not a bathroom, and secondly, Mrs Sheds has managed to train me not to p*ss against the walls when I get home...
 
ban-all-sheds said:
Mrs Sheds has managed to train me not to p*ss against the walls when I get home...

Was electric shock therapy used? :evil: :LOL:

*just brought a certain myth-busters episode to mind* (the one about ****ing on the third rail for electric trains)
 
I was confronted with this problem a few months back. My intense dislike of tiling around umpteen FCUs forced me to consider an alternative so I settled on MK Grid switches and fuses in an 18-way panel (I've got 8 circuits).

I had planned on running a 10mm radial (even bought the cable) along the loft and dropping down 2.5/1.5 radials to the grid switches (drop of 1.5m). Planned to make the connections in a box in the loft (using insulated power distribution blocks). However.... some learned chaps on another well known site wern't happy and suggested taking all my cables back to the CU. I argued my case (437-02-02 allows reduction in cable size for a max of 3m before fusing for the new size) but in the end I backed down. I ended up crimping the 8 cables in the loft and taking them all back to the CU to their individual MCBs. I now have a very neat wall mounted switch panel with unswitched 5/15A plugs and sockets for each appliance.

I have an MCB and fuse in each circuit but the MCB should trip before the fuse has a chance to blow. Even if a fuse does blow it's a simple matter to change it at the grid panel. And the neons on the switches are very handy.
 

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