Reading through your posts, you have a cavity wall (facing the weather = South westerly?) with an external render, with a coating that is flaking off. Internally, you imply that have damp which you believe is penetrating.
If you want to recoat the decoration of the render, removing the flaking coat may be a good idea, but it will do very little for the damp inside.
How is the moisture bridging the cavity between the external and lnternal leaves of the wall?
If the cement render is inappropriate or breaking down, rather than protecting the wall it may be causing problems. Older brick walls were built to breathe, so that any moisture would evaporate uniformly, and lime mortar was similar in behaviour. Pointing these walls with hard, impermeable, cement mortar accelerates mortar course decay and spalling of softer bricks during cold weather. This is because the water expands as it approaches freezing point, and more as it freezes, and can take off a layer of brick, mortar and pointing when thawed.
Similarly, cement mortar over older brickwork can prevent the bricks from drying, leading to hidden damage to the wall when the weather turns cold. This may lead to blown patches of render, cracks, more water ingress and finally the render coat will shear off.
Modern brickwork with cement mortar and a cement render is a much more uniform and impervious combination.
So what is the age of the house, orientation of wall, composition of bricks and mortar, cavity size, whether any cavity wall insulation has been inserted, and what type and when, state of wall ties, any cavity inspection to see if there are mortar bridges.
It would be helpful to describe the damp, location in room - what type of room, etc perhaps with a couple of photographs.
If the damp is penetrating, a masonry drill hole into the damp area will produce muddy paste, but if the damp is surface only, the drilling will produce dry dust.
