Which circular saw blade?

[ellal]

I'm ripping some oak sleepers with a circular saw - cutting from both sides.

Some planks are to be 23mm and some 18mm (20mm and 15mm after putting through a planer/thicknesser).

I'm using a 40 tooth blade which is getting a bit blunt so need to get a replacement.

Would a 12 tooth, 24 tooth or 40 tooth blade be best for this particular application?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If as you say you are "ripping" (which is in fact cutting along the grain of the timber from end to end) then a 40 tooth blade will probably be way too fine, although it does depend on the diameter of the saw blade. Ripping requires large gullets to clear the waste so relatiely fewer teeth are required than for cross cutting. For example a 190mm diameter portable (hand) rip saw will probably require a 12 to 18 tooth blade in order to cut freely, whilst a 230mm saw would be better off with an 18 to 24 tooth blade. Without stating the diameter of the blade it is difficult to give any meaningful answer

 

[ellal]

Thanks for the reply

Diameter of the blade is 190mm

 

[ellal]

Before and after images

 

[Burnerman]

Wow that's some work for a small diameter blade (fab end result though)......I'd try a 24 tooth blade, wedge the cut open and 'gan canny' with it!
John

 

[ellal]

Thanks John. Had to google that term though!

The blade doesn't actually go all the way through from both sides, so I had the option of either getting a heavy 235mm circular saw, or one of these which does the final 10mm http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb533rsp-reciprocating-saw-240v/17639
The latter means no need for wedging open.

The saw doesn't seem too overworked as the wood seems reasonably well seasoned, but as I have a lot more to 'plank', I want the easiest cut hence the blade question.
Those shown are for a bit of furniture, but I'm planning to make some thinner oak flooring as I can get plenty of sleepers cheaply.

 

[chappers]

I would go less than that I usually use a 12 or 14 tooth for ripping with a 190mm blade

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I would go less than that I usually use a 12 or 14 tooth for ripping with a 190mm blade

Likewise. The lower the tooth count, the less the chance of the blade binding in the cut and getting scorch markes where the blade has been unable to clear the swarf (because the blade is too fine)

 

[chappers]

Also to add I would buy a decent one if you are going to be ripping lots of oak, you can also get the tips re-sharpened for a few quid at most tool shops.

 

[ellal]

Also to add I would buy a decent one if you are going to be ripping lots of oak, you can also get the tips re-sharpened for a few quid at most tool shops.

Any suggestions as to make?

 

[chappers]

I've found the freud ones pretty good, but just bought a couple of bosch optilines and so far they seem Ok, but I haven't been ripping oak which is going to hit them a lot harder

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Bosch Construct are good for timbers which may contain hidden grit or metal (e.g. used sleepers, old beams, etc) - we've been using them for heavy ripping in new and old timbers, mainly C24 grade (new) pine and 100 to 150 years old pitch pine (which makes oak seem relatively soft). Bosch Optiline are also good, finer cut, but less robust if you hit an inclusion in my experience. Good for new timbers, hard or softwood. Our blades are 230mm (on a Hilti WSC85) and 190mm (on a couple of Makitas)

 

[ellal]

Thanks JobAndKnock

Think I'll try one of each of those Bosch blades, as I found I can get both online for £15 total.

Not that much more that a single Titan blade at screwfix!

 

[Chud]

If you're going to be doing a lot you may want to consider a chainsaw slabbing bar http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/chainsaw-mill (see the 'other items' below the listing as well...)