Which?

[bolo 2]

Changing all sockets and switches etc in our kitchen and have decided on the silvery look. But which to choose? As far as I am aware, there is a choice between stainless steel, brushed steel and chrome plated. It’s a once buy so price doesn’t really matter - looks and lasting qualities are more important.
If you were faced with the same choice, which would you go for? Brand suggestions and links would be very welcome.

 

[Mottie]

In our kitchen we have the MK brushed steel screwless sockets and switches. If I were fitting them now, I'd look for ones with USB outlets on them. Chrome plated ones may show fingerprint marks on them.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-aspec...shed-stainless-steel-with-black-inserts/252ff

 

[bernardgreen]

I'd look for ones with USB outlets on them

I would disagree, if ( when ) the USB power supply built into a socket goes faulty it may be that the socket has to be replaced before the MCB/RCD can be reset.

Also buy a couple of spare sockets for future repairs and/or when extra sockets are required

 

[blup]

The reputable brands seem to be predominantly white plastic, so I would buy based on appearance from a reputable seller. Check if the face plates are metal, if so they will need to be earthed to the metal back box. Note that many have metallic appearance but are not metal.

Blup

 

[EFLImpudence]

Check if the face plates are metal, if so they will need to be earthed to the metal back box.

Well, maybe and sort of.

If the faceplates are metal, THEY need to be EARTHED - by connecting them to the earth wire; the back box is irrelevant.

 

[Diver Fred]

If I were fitting them now, I'd look for ones with USB outlets on them.

I wouldn't AFAIK all USB outlets SMPS remain live and therefore a 'vampire' device.

 

[bernardgreen]

If the face plates are metal they will automatically be earthed via the earth wire screwed into the back,

The Earth wires in the cables need to be connected to the Earth terminal on the socket and not to the terminal in the back box.

The back box is then earthed by the mounting screws,

A link wire from socket Earth to back box Earth terminal is a sensible addition as the box box would otherwise not be earthed if the socket face plate was removed from the back box for inspection or just loose.

 

[SUNRAY]

If the face plates are metal they will automatically be earthed via the earth wire screwed into the back, and electrical continuity with the back box will be achieved via the two metal mounting screws. (Assuming they haven't been designed in a way that eliminates the possibility of their becoming live)

So wha happens down the line when the socket has works a little loose from repeated plugging in and out, especially if its a partition wall with the backbox mounted on a noggin?

NO NO. Do the job properly and ensure the socket (or switch) or the back box is earthed and both are properly linked with a wire.

As Bernard; I prefer to earth the socket or switch as that's the bit that's always accessible.

 

[bernardgreen]

There is really no chance whatsoever of the screws failing to provide continuity with the back box unless you have wrapped them in tape.

That is totally wrong......

 

[bernardgreen]

If the screw is done up firmly it makes contact. If the screw is loose it sags and makes contact.

and what is the impedance of that "contact" ? Will that "continuity" safely carry the fault current ( about 30 amps ( thirty ) when a 13 amp fuse is in the socket ) and ensure the appliance remains Earthed until the fuse or MCB operates and cuts the supply.

Your user name Cack at all trades is appropriate when considering your "knowledge" of electrical safety.

 

[SUNRAY]

The appliance will remain earthed via the earth terminal in the socket, i.e. the terminal to which you want to insert an extraneous fly lead. You were talking about earthing the back box. I'm really not sure what point you're trying to make. Feel free to continue engaging in harmless superstitious rituals but don't pretend they're gospel.

I have encountered several situations where a customer is complaining their computer/fridge/kettle/lightswitch is live where the earth continuity to the accessory is missing, A number have been metal switch's where the earth wire is in a brass terminal in the back of the plastic box. People following you faulty advice will believe the screws will complete that path... WRONG!!!
I've lost count of the number of sockets where that continuity fails for various reasons, for a start I mentioned before about plasterboard partitions with a backbox mounted on a stud or noggin and your faulty method relies on the pressure applied by flexible plasterboard... WRONG METHOD!!!
Grease in a busy kitchen gets everywhere and regular plugging in and out soon allows that grease to get in the loose gaps and grease is not an electrical conductor...
I've known the brass collars in the sockets be loose or contaminated and not in electrical contact with the plate...
The list goes on.

Please read and learn from those whose names do not include the term CACK as those who have replied so far HAVE ENCOUNTERED situations where the screw does not complete the safety circuit.

 

[SUNRAY]

If the screw is done up firmly it makes contact. If the screw is loose it sags and makes contact. You've got two screws. The odds of having the back box not in continuity with the accessory = 0.000.

NO NO NO I/WE have encountered too many situations where you thoughts of 0.000 is totally wrong. Please take note of those who do know what we're talking about... Please

 

[SUNRAY]

More wires into terminal = greater likelihood of one or more working loose.

Not for those who are capable of doing the job to a proper standard.

 

[CACKATALLTRADES]

I have encountered several situations where a customer is complaining their computer/fridge/kettle/lightswitch is live where the earth continuity to the accessory is missing, A number have been metal switch's where the earth wire is in a brass terminal in the back of the plastic box. People following you faulty advice will believe the screws will complete that path... WRONG!!!
I've lost count of the number of sockets where that continuity fails for various reasons, for a start I mentioned before about plasterboard partitions with a backbox mounted on a stud or noggin and your faulty method relies on the pressure applied by flexible plasterboard... WRONG METHOD!!!
Grease in a busy kitchen gets everywhere and regular plugging in and out soon allows that grease to get in the loose gaps and grease is not an electrical conductor...
I've known the brass collars in the sockets be loose or contaminated and not in electrical contact with the plate...
The list goes on.

Please read and learn from those whose names do not include the term CACK as those who have replied so far HAVE ENCOUNTERED situations where the screw does not complete the safety circuit.

Ok I take your point about the grease but whoever did that is a right wazzock.

 

[SUNRAY]

Ok I take your point about the grease but whoever did that is a right wazzock.

Yes you are quite correct, whoever mounted the socket in such a way that it relied on the mechanical mountings for the safety earth;

is a right wazzock.

all they had to do was do the job better and the ingress of the grease would have been completely harmless.