Wierd Sunvic 207XL problem

L

Lincsbodger

I just changed an ancient programmer and room stat for a Sunvic 207XL programmer and Sunvic TLX9000 stat. Two channel's set up for 24 hour programme.

It all works fine, except when you turn the water on - then the Programmer slowly gets hot on the top middle and the LCD display starts the develop a growing black patch. Its ok when the CH is running, it only occurs when you turn the water on.

If you turn the water off, the black patch clears and its ok.

Now, what it suggests is the wiring to the immersion heater or the terminal in the programmer is heating up. It doesnt feel like its gettign warm, its worked fine on a mechanical timer for years.

Am i missing something here? Are you not supposed to run an immersion heater through these terminals? if not, what is the HW switched output designed to operate?
 
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So you are using a central heating timer to control an immersion heater?

An immersion generally uses 13 amps, central heating timers are rated at 3 amps!
 
L

Lincsbodger

So you are using a central heating timer to control an immersion heater?

An immersion generally uses 13 amps, central heating timers are rated at 3 amps!

Ok thats the problem then, i read the leaflet, its said nothing regarding max load.

So is there some sort of domestic contactor i can use to switch the immersion heater ?
 
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Ive just read the instructions and it does say max load 6amps.

You can buy timers that are intended for immersions, search for immersion timers. :LOL:
 
L

Lincsbodger

Ive just read the instructions and it does say max load 6amps.

You can buy timers that are intended for immersions, search for immersion timers. :LOL:

Ok, but thats a separate timer, the whole idea was to get down to one timer. they way to do it woudl be to use the switched live out from the HW terminal to actuate a contactor, which would be low current, to switch a 30A circuit to t he immersion heater.

Is there such a thing as a domestic contactor?

would this do the job?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MK-Sentry-Con...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3a5ab722d3
 
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Personally Id stick to a branded one, and one that is din rail mountable, so you can fit it in an inclosure.
 

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