Window hinges cut badly. Now need to be filled

[DiyNutJob]

Unfortunately, it is not suitable for exterior work

I do it, and it works very well. However I would not do it for structural repair that bears load.

 

[ChloeRadshaw1]

Do you mean the timebauild expoxy resin rather than a Ronseal 2 part wood filler ?

 

[ChloeRadshaw1]

You can splice in some shims of timber with epoxy resin.

If it were interior woodwork, I would remove the hinge, wrap it polythene, fill the messed up cut out with 2 pack filler, push the hinge in to it, wait a few minutes and gingerly pull the hinge away without pulling the polythene.

When the 2K filler has hardened, you can pull away the polythene and sand away the excess on the frame.

I do it regularly. It works very well.

Unfortunately, it is not suitable for exterior work, hence the recommendation to use epoxy resin fillers.

The fact that he used an oscillating saw is very worrying.

Do you mean the timebauild expoxy resin rather than a Ronseal 2 part wood filler ?

 

[opps]

I do it, and it works very well. However I would not do it for structural repair that bears load.

I used to use it outdoors, overtime I noticed that it would develop hairline cracks that would left in moisture and whilst the 2K filler was fine, the timber it was in contact with would rot.

I use 2k filler on exterior masonry and minor dents in exterior woodwork, but exterior dynamic joins, I use epoxy resins.

 

[opps]

Do you mean the timebauild expoxy resin rather than a Ronseal 2 part wood filler ?

I use Timabuild and the RepairCare epoxy resins

2 part fillers, I occasionally refer to as 2K, two pack and polyester resin fillers.

 

[DiyNutJob]

I used to use it outdoors, overtime I noticed that it would develop hairline cracks that would left in moisture and whilst the 2K filler was fine, the timber it was in contact with would rot.

Maybe you shouldn't let water in. Water will affect resin repair equally. The crack develops because of wood contraction after seal. The contraction stabilises if the wood continues to be sealed. Good quality oil paint acts like a stretchy jacket and will protect the crack even if it does happen. Any crack that shows through can then be maintenance repaired.

 

[opps]

Maybe you shouldn't let water in. Water will affect resin repair equally. The crack develops because of wood contraction after seal. The contraction stabilises if the wood continues to be sealed. Good quality oil paint acts like a stretchy jacket and will protect the crack even if it does happen. Any crack that shows through can then be maintenance repaired.

What are you on about?

I didn't "let" the water in.

You really are out of your depth here, but yet again, you (think) you know best.

I have, at a guess, painted the exterior of somewhere between 80 and 100 exteriors.

If I splice in timber repairs on 120 yr old Victorian buildings, the timber that I purchased the day before is always going to expand and contract at a different rate to the surrounding 120yr timber, and that is why you should use epoxy resins, they will compact and expand accordingly, 2K fillers will not tolerate those movements.

Sure, you could repaint the cracks twice a year, but I don't want to tell my customers that they will need to pay for me to come back twice a year, for years. They expect hassle free longevity.

 

[DiyNutJob]

You really are out of your depth here

You are too stuck in your ways. 2PWF cracks twice a year but cheap caulk never fails. Maybe you should use caulk.

 

[diy_fun_uk]

The given pics are next to useless. Would have been good to see some with the window open and hinges from the inside.

 

[opps]

You are too stuck in your ways. 2PWF cracks twice a year but cheap caulk never fails. Maybe you should use caulk.

Why would any rational person use 2 pack wood filler if they know it is going to fail twice a year when they could use a product that will last years.

Cheap caulk? I have never advocated using "cheap" caulk. I recommend using caulk when appropriate and MS polymers when appropriate.

You accuse us tradesmen of knowingly using inferior products to generate extra work in the future and then you go on to (by your own admission) recommend that the OP use a cheaper inferior product that is bound to fail unless they paint over it twice a year. I can buy a 3.5L tin of two pack filler for just over £20, 0.4L of epoxy resin will cost about £40. The epoxy resin is 17 times more expensive, and I have the purchase cost of the dispensing gun- £30-£50, and the need to rotate mixing boards and filling knives that might not be ready to sand for a week.

Oh, and please do tell us supposed conmen, how you touch in high gloss paint without a visible halo. I would love to know, it would save me having to repaint whole doors/panels/etc.

BTW, I have only been using epoxy resins for about 6 years, I have been painting exteriors for 30-something years. Surely, that suggests that I am not "stuck in my ways". I didn't accuse you of being stuck in your ways, I accused you of giving bad advice to the OP.