Wireless solution for recliner sofa

We've just bought a recliner sofa and chair from DFS Both electrically powered by battery which they claim will last up to 6 months before needing charging again. First charge took 16 hours but subsequent charges should only take 8-10 hours. When they are due we will simply plug them in overnight and put the chargers away again. Been working very smoothly for just over 2 weeks now and no wires on show as each unit has it's own battery pack which tucks underneath at the back.
I'll see if I can find out any details on the chargers when I get a chance.
 
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Here's a photo of the battery pack for my wifes chair. Hope this helps.
IMG_0926.JPG
 
Also consider supplying a floor socket from a double pole switched fuse to enable full isolation of the socket if ( or when ) it get damaged or has liquid spilt on it.
No need for a FCU, the plug will have a fuse. Use a double pole switch if you like.
 
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Plenty of useful suggestions there for you to choose from. My view for what it's worth...

A battery solution is OK, but you'll have to remember a charging routine, and the solution is likely to be unique to that particular recliner.

A recessed floor socket is fit and forget, and will work with any recliner, or indeed any appliance you might want to use there. Definitely worth going for the fully recessed sort though, not the flappy sort.
 
Thank you for your wisdom. The fuse could be removed to ensure the floor socket was not used if it was damaged.
It could also be switched off with a double pole switch. Do you fit a FCU to every socket for that reason?
 
I have 4 chairs bought at different times with recliners, all seem to use something that looks like a hydraulic cylinder, or linear motor, and DC, all use a power pack that looks like this upload_2022-3-8_9-38-31.png with the extra low voltage connector that looks like the plugs and sockets used for speakers, and under the pack are two PP3 batteries which will work chair once in the case of a power cut.

Since the chairs are designed for the infirm, unless there is a method to allow use in a power cut, the question arises are they fit for purpose? Same as stair lift, they need to have batteries. However my mothers stair lift did have a place where a manual tool could be inserted to wind it off the stairs, but father-in-laws when it failed mid way and we phoned agents to ask how to more it was told they would need to visit, some 12 miles away from their base, so best time ½ hour, if it happened during the day, but it was German so maybe Germans have better bladders?
 
However my mothers stair lift did have a place where a manual tool could be inserted to wind it off the stairs,

I have tried the manual winder and seen how slow they move? A battery drill would be the only way to wind it in a reasonable amount of time.
 
I have tried the manual winder and seen how slow they move? A battery drill would be the only way to wind it in a reasonable amount of time.
I agree at least with Stennah, the German one, having in the end removed it, there was no brake release, so remove mills pin at top, and push chair and rack out of the rail is only way without power. I lucky had a pair of spare 7 Ah batteries fully charged and had to swap batteries to get chair where stairs could be used again.

It was so silly, the power was from a 13 amp socket, and the chair lift had simply been unplugged, but will only charge when parked either end, so once moved plugging back in did not help.

The Stennah at mothers was just as bad in a way, again only three points where it was charged, if used daily no problem, but if not the batteries were over charged, so one would move it a few foot down, then it stopped due to low battery, no warning lamp battery low, just stopped. There was also a 180° bend, so could not see bottom from top, and there was a leg which when down blocked the hall, which needed to be put down first before chair would move, I tested with a stout cardboard box, it crushed the box. Loads of safeties on the chair, non on the arm which had to be lowered before the chair could be used. And the lower controls for the leg where on the door side of the hall, so mother in a wheel chair could not leave the house if the leg was down. Back door had a step so she could not leave that way. When my dad forgot to lift leg I had to leave house through back door and re-enter through front door to access controls to lift leg.

Installation done by order of county council social services by Stennah, so much for heath and safety in the home.
 
It was so silly, the power was from a 13 amp socket, and the chair lift had simply been unplugged, but will only charge when parked either end, so once moved plugging back in did not help.

Our Stannah includes a powered track like an industrial tracked crane - it can pick-up along the entire length, but it will not move / lacks the PSU capacity, to run unless the batteries are installed and have enough charge. It is still a poor design, in that the brake is powered all the time there is no movement, so if the mains is lost for too long - the batteries are flattened and ruined.
 
Standard 12 volt smart battery charger will stop charging at 14.4 volt, and restart at 12.8 volt, or for 24 volt systems 28.8 and 25.6 volt, but batteries on Stannah often showed over 30 volt, I think basic not regulated, it just relied on an average voltage being within limits when used daily. The problem was once dad died it was not used daily, so while he was alive batteries had a 4 year life, after he died rarely did even 2 years.
 

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