Wiring for 2-Way Switch and outdoor lighting

[kylesri]

Hi everybody,

A google search for wiring diagrams pointed me in the direction of this site.

Basically in my garden, today I have fitted a flood lamp (with a sensor) which is Earthed.

Now to light another section of garden I need another light but not as powerful so bought a Double Insulated Single lamp.

Eventually these will be wired to the main lighting circuit in the garage by an electrician (we need some more electrical work doing in there hense requiring the electrician, around June 2013).

So as a temporary solution we want to do the following, but wire it to a 3 pin plug as a simple temporary soliton so we can see in our garden as we require access every night.

Please note I have purchased everything so all I need is some guidance to let me know what wires need to go where for the switch. I've already created the cable with the plug, and wired the 2 lights up, so its all relating to wiring of the double switch.

Any help would be most appreciated.

 

[RF Lighting]

Disregard supply to next light.

It's all in the DIYnot wiki


The work you are proposing is notifiable to your LABC
Click here to find out more

 

[kylesri]

Thanks for that but I must be a total idiot because i'm still none the wiser.

Looking on my switch i've got 3 wire slots per switch. one at the top and 2 at the bottom.

The ones are the top are labeled "Common" and the bottom ones are "Way 1" & "Way 2".

I've got the usual wires to go in (one light is earthed and the other isnt), Earth Live & Neutral. I'm guessing i've got the incorrect switch so i'd need 4 slots on the back per switch wouldn't I?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Ignore 'way 2'.

 

[kylesri]

Ignore 'way 2'.

Thats confused me more lol.

Any chance of an explanation of what I need to do, Here is a diagram of the wires needed, supply at the bottom which has E,L,N. The top two one is earthed and the other isn't:

 

[sparkwright]

Don't know if you have RCD protection, but would strongly advise you use a plug in 30 mA RCD or PowerBreaker between the socket and the plug. Also recommend a 3 or 5 amp fuse in the plug. Also urge you to check all connections you have also made are safe, also check everything outdoors is watertight, particularly round cable entries. Where possible, cables entering the accessory are more watertight at the bottom, with appropriate seals or glands.

At the switch, connect all earth wires to the earth terminal on the back box.

Connect all the neutrals to a separate 5 amp connector block, you may need to buy some.

Connect the supply live (from the plug) to one of the 'common' terminals. From here connect a short piece of brown wire to the other 'common' terminal.

Connect the live from light 1 to one of the terminals marked 1way.

Connect the live from light 2 to the remaining terminal marked 1way.

Leave the 2way terminals empty.

Send pictures of all your work - such an installation, though temporary, should be watertight and safe.

 

[sparkwright]

I've already created the cable with the plug

Never, ever, connect a plug to a length of cable without making sure the other end is safely terminated.

 

[kylesri]

Thanks for your reply.

With the RCD Protector, is this the kind of thing I need to buy? (although i'd be going to B&Q for it or somewhere similar).

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/3308...ixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla&crdt=0

I think the plug already has a 5 AMP Fuse but i'll check.

I already have some connector blocks, doesn't specify what AMP they are rated but states 600V? (not sure if sufficient).

 

[kylesri]

I've already created the cable with the plug

Never, ever, connect a plug to a length of cable without making sure the other end is safely terminated.

In this instance, the other end is actually safely connected to just the flood light which is earthed, the second lamp is an after thought.

 

[sparkwright]

Yes, that RCD is fine. As said, not sure what you have in the way of RCD protection, but will be safer to have that plug-in RCD.

Connector blocks come in 2,5,15,30,60 amp sizes generally. Send a picture and we may be able to tell you what they are.

The more I read your post the more alarmed I am by this temporary installation. I 'assume' you are using regular flex? Don't use flat twin and earth, not flexible enough. Make sure the cable is away from the ground level so it cannot be damaged.

 

[kylesri]

So i'm guessing you'll be more shocked to read I work in the electronics industry

That aside, I am using the correct cable, 3 core 1.5mm2 flex rosh compliant. The outer sheath is white, not that it makes any difference haha.

I have currently fitted to the wall the main spot lamp, and secured the cable to the wall using correct mount clips.

As for your initial alarm, we need this lighting installed as soon as we can, i'm not in any way rushing it nor making any short cuts, if something needs doing, such as the RCD (I don't know if the house comes with it as a standard electrical feature built in somewhere) but will buy one of the protectors anyway.

The garage's lighting electrical circuit is a complete mess. We had it converted into 3 rooms. My dad had 'a mate of a mate' electrician come a few years ago to re-wire it. In short, he made a complete mess and one of the lights don't even work unless you turn one of the other lights is turned off. Basically we're all fed up of it, so doing this temporary lighting job using a plug to sort us for a couple of months, as in the new year we're getting an electrician to rewire the garage again, and build this "temporary" circuit into the main garages supply.

 

[kylesri]

Pics of the terminal blocks as requested.

 

[SaladFingers]

So i'm guessing you'll be more shocked to read I work in the electronics industry

No surprise really.

They're related in the fact that there's electricity involved, but both are different, different methods, standards, fittings, etc.

 

[kylesri]

So i'm guessing you'll be more shocked to read I work in the electronics industry

No surprise really.

They're related in the fact that there's electricity involved, but both are different, different methods, standards, fittings, etc.

I just install working to customer diagrams and everything is tested before it goes out the door. I don't go around creating circuits as I feel fit

As for installation of this project, there will be no issues with bad wiring, it's just the "know how" on how to set the project up I need assistance with.

 

[sparkwright]

Connector blocks look fine. IF they seem a bit big for the wires, double the ends of the wires over to give them a bit more 'strength'.