Wiring help required with this switch IP55 *fixed pictures*

I thought you needed an FCU for a waste disposal unit? Why are we talking about pond accessories?????? Did i miss something??? :eek: :rolleyes: :oops:
 
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No he needs an IP rated switch for a waste disposal unit, though JohnD has also recommended a FCU.

I don't know anything about waste disposal units, but would have thought it only activated when something is inserted into it, so why a switch is required I'm not quite clear?
 
QVS do an IP66 spur:

LEW MW13SP @ 19.15

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jimbox said:
so why a switch is required I'm not quite clear?

A switch for maintenance and more importantly, a means of fusing down from 30/32A........
 
so do MK but afaict they both suffer from the problem that they are basically an indoor FCU in a waterproof box, NOT a waterproof switch (e.g. that can actualy be switched safely with wet hands)
 
securespark said:
jimbox said:
so why a switch is required I'm not quite clear?

A switch for maintenance and more importantly, a means of fusing down from 30/32A........

Sorry, I should have said "so why a IP-rated switch is required I'm not quite clear?"

If it's just for maintenance then a standard switched FCU would do the job nicely, if it needs to be IP rated then that suggests it's going to be used frequently. (Plus I can't see his wife getting excited about him installing a switch for purely maintenance purposes)
 
I'm going to stick my neck out and make some assumptions! Something a well-trained spark rarely does....

It may be possible to assemble a masterseal fused spur...if the masterseal components are interchangeable with grid plus...

Buy a 56422.

Fit a 56891 on one side.

Fit a 1361 fuse carrier on the other.

Scrub that....they are not interchangeable.

But why doesn't MK have the facilty to build a switch a la GridPlus?
 
When i was in a high-spec timeshare apartment in Florida once, they just have a normal switch above the counter for the waste disposal. Not IP protected (or their equivalent). IMO, you could just fit a normal 13A swtched FCU.
 
but the yanks only have 110 volts, and just cos it's ok over there doesn't mean it does or doesn't meet whatever building regs we have here.
 
crafty1289 said:

crafty, I agree, but I was thinking there might be a single accessory to do them both.

the point about the wet-hands switch is that auto-start shredders tend to start when you put your fingers in to fish out that bit of orange peel. I think in hotel kitchens I've seen a foot-operated bar switch to guard against distressing hand amputations.
 
what about a fused terminal block? sure it makes changing the fuse a little tricky but it at least saves having another box.
 
jimbox said:
but the yanks only have 110 volts, and just cos it's ok over there doesn't mean it does or doesn't meet whatever building regs we have here.
I was merely stating that these things dont need an IP protected switch! The yanks dont put fuses on anything either. Did i say that was a good idea? :eek: :LOL:

With my idea, i was thinking of putting the fuse plate below the worktop, near the motor, and putting just the switch above the worktop.

But i mean, come on, who has never flicked a lightswitch with wet hands? :rolleyes:
 

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