Wiring in a 1 gang 2 way Wifi switch no neutral

[SUNRAY]

2 in each
L: Black with brown sheath to send power to the L terminal on switch 2, plus solid brown to send permanent power to switch 1.
L1: Brown with brown sheath - live coming from light. And a solid brown, again to send power to the L1 port on switch 2 as it won't power up without 12v to L and L1. Despite what the manual says, unless it's defective.

I now have 1 solid brown at switch 1 not connected to anything, and the grey sheathed brown isolated at each switch, not connected to anything.

So how many wires do I show in L?

I'm out

 

[pete01]

Wire 2 one way switches in parallel?
I have my doubts and the drawing doesn't show it... rather defeats the operation of wifi switches too.
But the 3rd wire (black) is there if it is required

I get you now

 

[HoMoaner34]

I've almost sorted it. To confirm

Master switch:

L = Perm live from consumer unit plus brown wire from 3 core linking switch 1 to switch 2 to provide a perm live to switch 2
L1 = Live from ceiling light, plus brown sheathed black strapper wire to provide 12v to L1 at switch 2 else it won't power on

One remaining brown wire which I assume is a loop out to kitchen. I suppose I'm supposed to shove that into the L terminal for a constant 12v supply though i'm not sure how safe that is.

Switch 2:

L = brown wire linked to 12v perm from L on switch 1
L1 = black wire sheathed brown from L1 on switch 1 to send signal and provide 12v to L1

 

[HoMoaner34]

So how many wires do I show in L?View attachment 408902


I'm out

Makes sense thanks. Completely different to the wiring guide supplied though. Why does it even need a live going to L1 on the second switch?

 

[SUNRAY]

One remaining brown wire which I assume is a loop out to kitchen. I suppose I'm supposed to shove that into the L terminal

Why do you suppose anything when I have repeatedly advised you to do it?

Makes sense thanks. Completely different to the wiring guide supplied though.

Is it?

Why does it even need a live going to L1 on the second switch?

How do you expect it to work without?

 

[HoMoaner34]

Why do you suppose anything when I have repeatedly advised you to do it?

Is it?

How do you expect it to work without?

I posted that post just after you posted yours so I didn't see it.
And yes it is. The guide shows just a neutral and live going to L on the second switch, despite buying a 'no neutral' switch so I thought just having a permanent live to L would allow the switches to communicate to eachother via wifi

 

[HoMoaner34]

Anyway all buttoned back together after fitting the capacitor and working flawlessly via Smart Life and by voice command to Google Home.
Decent build quality, just hope they last so I don't have to go in there again. Master needed a 10mm spacer, other switch everything fit in the 35mm backbox.
Thanks all and apologies for the frustration. The more annoyed I got with it, the more logic flew out the window. Safe to say I'll never be an electrician. Think I'll leave it a while before tackling the 2 gang 2 way switches for the landing. Once those are done the rest should be much easier being 1 way throughout.

 

[ericmark]

So now it is "hey google turn on living room light" and "hey google turn off living room light" so why do you need second switch?

 

[ericmark]

I did the same with temporary dinning room lighting, when using it as a bedroom, set up button on the bed

it was never used, wife used voice control instead. The button is now our doorbell push.

 

[HoMoaner34]

For when I've just walked through the front door and don't have my phone on me, or simply so I don't have to take it out of my pocket and ask it