In my house as there are in most, the loop system, I would like to replace the ceiling rose with a flush circular light but it only has a terminal block to only L N E. What do I do with the 4 red cables in the middle terminal? 
wiring issue
- Thread starter razorback
- Start date
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You need to loop all the lives together, if there is not a spare supplied on the fitting, then buy a connection strip and terminate the cables in to that.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLCON5.html
Here is an example on how to perform this
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting:rose
Don't tape the strip up though, if you can install a choc box it would be best.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLCON5.html
Here is an example on how to perform this
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting:rose
Don't tape the strip up though, if you can install a choc box it would be best.
C
cumbriahandyman
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If you are talking about the reds in the loop connection/terminal.
They are your live supply and feeds, they are permanently live, come and go to other lighting points on your circuit, if you remove one what ever it is connected to after that point will not work, as a live connection is not being offered.
so, to clarify when i put my new fitting on, neutral wires, earth wire and switch live go into light fitting. one of those reds in the loop will be from the switch cable so for all to work the reds all into one terminal block or wago connector? is that right?
Sounds like you have it, what you must remember that when twin and earth is used. the core colours for the switch conductors are often that of live & neutral (black and red) the black cable is not a neutral but a switch wire, which is a live and should be sleeved, marked or flagged up to identify it as so.
The reds in the loop will be a combination of live supply from previous fitting (or CU if first light on circuit), the live to the next lighting point on circuit and the cable that is supply the live to your switch.
The reason for not using insulation tape is that it is not really a suitable material to use, don't get me wrong it is used and who ever was the authur of the link I suppplied, may have or still does use it.
But it is not considered a good insulator. Much better to use choc box.
Thank you very much prenticeboyofderry..... But am now going to ask you another question..... how do i test for continuity,because presumably as you said there is a switch cable there and is not sleeved...many thanks.
But am now going to ask you another question..... how do i test for continuity,because presumably as you said there is a switch cable there and is not sleeved...many thanks.
Have you removed the ceiling rose yet?
If you have not, or if you have but you marked the cables and made a note of what was there before removing it then you can tell which wire is which by where they are/were.
If though you just removed it and now don't have a clue which is which you'll need to get a multimeter so that you can test for the switch cable.
If you have not, or if you have but you marked the cables and made a note of what was there before removing it then you can tell which wire is which by where they are/were.
If though you just removed it and now don't have a clue which is which you'll need to get a multimeter so that you can test for the switch cable.
Spark123 was the original author of the Wiki article, but I have a nagging feeling that I originally posted it the sticky before we had the Wiki.
But AFAIR it has always had the instruction not to use tape. The thing is it's a good diagrammatic explanation of how to replace a loop-in rose with a light fitting with only 3 terminals - it would be a shame not to use it because of the tape issue.
I agree.
It is a very good diagrammatic explanation, that was my reason for the link for razorback and it would be a shame not to use it.
Yep, it was from the sticky
If like bas has mentioned you have removed the cables from the fitting before taking note and marking up cables.
You need a test equipment that can test for continuity.
Multimeter will do or any other meter that you can get your hands on that can test for continuity eg continuity tester or MFT.
The way I would test for the switch cables, would be to separate your cables at the ceiling rose into each set of T&E. You should be able to do this by the fact they are in grey PVC sheaths (more often than not) Set your meter at a low ohm setting
Then test across the red and black cable, then by using the switch for your light, open and close the circuit you should get a open circuit when the switch is open(switch in off position and no reading on meter) and a closed circuit when the switch is closed (on position and a low ohms reading on meter).
And they willl be your switch cables the black should be sleeved red.
Keeping trying pairs until you get the above results, remember to safely isolate and prove the circuit is dead before you work on it.
You need a test equipment that can test for continuity.
Multimeter will do or any other meter that you can get your hands on that can test for continuity eg continuity tester or MFT.
The way I would test for the switch cables, would be to separate your cables at the ceiling rose into each set of T&E. You should be able to do this by the fact they are in grey PVC sheaths (more often than not) Set your meter at a low ohm setting
Then test across the red and black cable, then by using the switch for your light, open and close the circuit you should get a open circuit when the switch is open(switch in off position and no reading on meter) and a closed circuit when the switch is closed (on position and a low ohms reading on meter).
And they willl be your switch cables the black should be sleeved red.
Keeping trying pairs until you get the above results, remember to safely isolate and prove the circuit is dead before you work on it.
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