hi guys and gals,the electician been to wire my glow-worm 18 sxi. if i switch the time-clock/controler to heating and hot water boiler comes on and the 2 honeywell water valves open,now then when i put the controler to hot water only one of the honeywell valves opens but the boiler dosent come on.from what i can see of the wiring there is no live going to the boiler only to the valve? i cant just jumper this across to the boiler connector it will bring on the heating aswell. any idea how to wire this system boiler up? hope someone can help me. cheers shane. ps rang the electician a week ago and has not rang me back.
wiring problem glow-worm 18 sxi help!!!!!!!
- Thread starter nvsnack
- Start date
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He hasn't rung you back because he doesn't know how to correct the problem.
If the valve the is actuating but the boiler doesn't fire. It could be that the valve is faulty. If it doesn't open far enough the switched live will not be made through to the boiler. It could just as easily be wired incorrectly. It's not an easy thing to troubleshoot wiring issues over the internet. As a fitter, I often come across heating systems which have been incorrectly wired or have a component with an electrical fault. Sometimes the wiring is so screwed up (usually as a result of an electrician who doesn't follow the wiring plan) that I've had to rewire them completely from scratch.
You need to get an s plan wiring diagram and trace out to see if he has wired it accordingly. If he has, it will most likely be the motor on the valve or the valve itself.
If the valve the is actuating but the boiler doesn't fire. It could be that the valve is faulty. If it doesn't open far enough the switched live will not be made through to the boiler. It could just as easily be wired incorrectly. It's not an easy thing to troubleshoot wiring issues over the internet. As a fitter, I often come across heating systems which have been incorrectly wired or have a component with an electrical fault. Sometimes the wiring is so screwed up (usually as a result of an electrician who doesn't follow the wiring plan) that I've had to rewire them completely from scratch.
You need to get an s plan wiring diagram and trace out to see if he has wired it accordingly. If he has, it will most likely be the motor on the valve or the valve itself.
cheers plumbitright,i've just checked the honeywell valve wiring and he has only used brown and blue wires from the valves he has cut back the orange and grey and not used them? they have a wiring diagram for my system on the honeywell website dose'nt look anything like mine.i think it all wants rewiring. thanks again shane. ps i think i've worked it out blue n,brown switched live(from controler) grey perment live(240v)orange live to boiler.
Without seeing a circuit diagram of what you've got, I can only make an intelligent guess. It's one thing to work out what's going on with all the wires in front of you but, as plumbitright says, quite another to do it with words over the internet. 
From what you describe, the controller is driving the valves correctly. It's the boiler wiring that's all wrong. It sounds as if the boiler is connected to the heating output from the controller. No heating = no boiler.
I would expect those extra wires on the valves to be switches and their purpose is to turn on the boiler when the valve opens. You can put them in parallel so that either or both will power the boiler (which is what you want) while the controller outputs remain separate. You can have heating or hot water or both. But don't take my word for any of this. As I said, this is a best guess. Get the data on your valves and see what those extra wires really do.
PS: I see no mention of any room or cylinder stats. Do you have these?
From what you describe, the controller is driving the valves correctly. It's the boiler wiring that's all wrong. It sounds as if the boiler is connected to the heating output from the controller. No heating = no boiler.
I would expect those extra wires on the valves to be switches and their purpose is to turn on the boiler when the valve opens. You can put them in parallel so that either or both will power the boiler (which is what you want) while the controller outputs remain separate. You can have heating or hot water or both.
But don't take my word for any of this. As I said, this is a best guess. Get the data on your valves and see what those extra wires really do. PS: I see no mention of any room or cylinder stats. Do you have these?
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I've only skimmed, but I notice you say he has cut back the Orange and Grey wires to the valve?
Well, I think that's your problem...
You'll be getting a signal sent to the Valve, and it may well operate slightly, but it won't be doing anything other than open.
The Grey will connect with the Orange as the valve motors to the open position, sending 230v down the Orange wire, and then off to your Pump and Boiler....
Which would then fire the pump & boiler.
If your only getting HW when the CH & HW are turned on together, then you mustn't have a Live or SwitchLive coming from the HW Zone Valve.
The reason you're getting HW (Hot Water) is because the Boiler&Pump are working, to create CH (Central Heating) and the HW Zone Valve is allowing water into the HW Cyinder...
Well, I think that's your problem...
You'll be getting a signal sent to the Valve, and it may well operate slightly, but it won't be doing anything other than open.
The Grey will connect with the Orange as the valve motors to the open position, sending 230v down the Orange wire, and then off to your Pump and Boiler....
Which would then fire the pump & boiler.
If your only getting HW when the CH & HW are turned on together, then you mustn't have a Live or SwitchLive coming from the HW Zone Valve.
The reason you're getting HW (Hot Water) is because the Boiler&Pump are working, to create CH (Central Heating) and the HW Zone Valve is allowing water into the HW Cyinder...
If the wiring is correct. The pump should be wired directly from the boiler as this boiler requires and provides the pump over run.
BlueMoonMole said:
That seems to confirm my best guess so --
The controller HW and CH outputs should go only to the valves. Remove any connection from these to the boiler/pump. Join the two greys together and connect to a permanent live supply. Join the two oranges together and use them as your switched live supply to the boiler/pump.
PS: If you do have room and/or cylinder stats (which would be a very good ides) you interpose these between the appropriate controller outputs and valve motors.
PPS: No matter how obvious it might be, get the data for your valves and confirm the function of those wires anyway.
Edit:
nvsnack said:
I've just seen this and it looks like you've confirmed the valve wiring already.
If the wiring is correct. The pump should be wired directly from the boiler as this boiler requires and provides the pump over run.
I'm not familiar with this Boiler, I don't think... Thanks!
And to the OP... As mentioned, check those Grey's & Oranges!
plumbitright said:
Good point. The two orange wires provide switched live power to the boiler only and not directly to the pump. The boiler will also require a permanent live supply and it will have a switched live output to feed the pump. If you don't do it this way, you won't get the pump over-run when the boiler switches off.
Well that's helpfully information. Dufus!
As I said previously, consult the s plan wiring diagram, your controller and the boiler wiring instructions. If you're not able to or qualified to interpret these to acertain the problem. Enlist the help of an electrician who is familiar with central heating system wiring. Good luck.
cheers plumbitright,the boiler has a permanent live and the problem is the grey and orange wires like most say it is.it also has a tank stat and room stat.i will let you know how i get on. thanks everyone and i hope i dont die!!!! cheers shane.
well i'm still here!!! did the wiring today and everything works great!!! i rewired the lot it was a bit of a mess so i did it all.just needed to nip out and get a longer peice of 4 core for the boiler,all nice and neat now,thanks for all the advice pepole.now all i need to do now is find the sparky who charged me £100 for the job and get a bit of wonga back.thanks again shane.
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