Wooden floor edging around architrave

[vkusuman]

Hi,
I am having a problem with edging around the wooden floor.
Builder has fitted the architrave and skirtings a long time ago and laid the wooden flooring this week. to cover the expansion gap around the edges, we used the mdf beeding.
It looks ok around most of the places, but around the door where the Wavy architrave meets the floor, it looks very awkward. after spending a fortune on the renovation, this bit looks really cheap.
I am sure there must be a solition for it, but I dont have any clue.
before speaking to the builder I want to know what are the options. Please can anyone help?

Thanks
V

 

[steve22]

I would have finished the beading at the end of the skirting by mitreing and end piece and then use a fleible filler of a suitable colour to fill in around the architrave

 

[Richard C]

That's an absolute joke; not only does it look totally naff, the mitres don't even match The guy is a total cowboy

The best solution is to remove the skirting & refit but that can still leave it a little messy around the door architraves; the best solution is as steve suggests, stop short & use a flexible colored filler.

 

[vkusuman]

Thanks guys,
I know its not good at all, they did everything else nicely, but rushed this one.
Can you please give me some links to the filler/example for this kind of solution? I couldnt find anything like that.

Many thanks again.

 

[mr_vampy]

Hi vkusuman,

I think you are best doing what Steve22 has suggested. If you have a Screwfix or a Toolstation store near you, you can buy tubes of coloured sealant to match your wood colour.
The two that I have found are for Oak.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/42303...g-Sealants/No-Nonsense-Flooring-Sealant-Light

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adh...Laminate+Sealant+310ml+Oak/d180/sd2350/p73688

Hope it helps

 

[WoodYouLike]

If you think you've seen absolutely everything then this comes up!

Hadn't they undercut your architraves to just slide the floor underneath it and end the scotia where the skirting ends?

 

[mac391]

flexible filler looks, ok not as bad as that dodgy beading but still pretty bad.. The plank underneath the architrave could be removed, cut the architrave away and fit a new plank (if you have a spare).. tricky diy job but easy doable.

 

[mattysupra]

LOL


This is a joke right?


if its not a joke i would defo be a bit more worried about the rest of the building works. Not only does every box of laminate come with instructions on how to Undercut door frames for the DIY! but any body who is going to install a wooden flooring should know the bare basics of how to finish around the door frames.

Silicon and colour fill is not that answer! The cut of the flooring should be UNDER the door frame.

Get the 'joke' of a floor fitter back who fitted the flooring and get them to install the flooring correct to the instructions supplied with the flooring.

 

[big-all]

can we have a picture with the scraps removed please to see how close to the moulding they have cut please

as said above this is not your problem but because off the lack off basic skills i think he/she will do a runner so we need to know whats behind to fully help
i would also go as far as to say the plank that goes under the "bits"looks like it lines up with the front off the skirting fairly well without an expansion gap !!

 

[ajrobb]

I have undercut the architrave for a couple of floors/doors. It was a bit tricky with skirting in place (I used a chisel to finish off). It was a simple saw cut with skirting removed. I was joining to carpet and left the frame going down to the underfloor. I used cork expansion strip around the frame.

1. Is it common to butt up to the frame with no expansion?

2. When installing wood on both sides of the door (as per this thread), should I undercut the frame too?

3. Can I fill the expansion gap with mastic to eliminate drafts?

 

[WoodYouLike]

I used cork expansion strip around the frame.

1. Is it common to butt up to the frame with no expansion?

2. When installing wood on both sides of the door (as per this thread), should I undercut the frame too?

3. Can I fill the expansion gap with mastic to eliminate drafts?

DON'T USE CORK OR ANYTHING ELSE TO FILL ANY EXPANSION GAP (wish I would receive a pound for every single time this issue comes up, I could retire rich!)

1) When installing a wooden floor, make sure you have a suitable wide expansion gap ALL AROUND the perimeter of the whole floor, be it at door posts, architraves, fireplaces, patio doors, radiator pipes etc etc etc.

2) Depends on the width of the frame and the divider you use. A T-bar needs a wider gap between the two floors to make sure both floors have their own wide enough expansion gaps in the doorway.

3) NO NO NO NO - sure you get the picture now.

Please, read this
Gaps! They are there for a very good reason!