wooden window frames

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I'm with @opps - forget B&Q. Better to go and find yourself a timber yard or decent builder's merchant for stuff like this or go on-line. Filler really needs to be a 2-pack and have some flexibility - even P40 (car body filler) is better than any of the one-part fillers. I've had the EWS stabiliser from Reddiseals (specialist sash window repair components firm) in the past - they always have it in stock. They also sell Metolux 2-pack filler with mixer nozzles which always deliver the correct mix ratio (ideally requires a heavy-duty caulking gun such as an Cox or Ox brand)

An alternative supplier is Chemfix, who also have rot repair videos on their site (follow the link)

TBH it doesn't surprise me that B&Q and Wickes don't carry this stuff - only three of the timber merchants I deal with within 10 miles actually stock it - bit of a specialist product
 
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The Timbabuild video on spliced repairs:


This is how we do some sash window timber component repairs. Pretty much every piece of timber spliced in will need to be planed in afterwards - not an issue as long as you have a razor sharp plane (and know how to keep it that way). You can't do full repairs with filler alone (filler lacks strength) - that way lies a wonky, weak window repair and madness...
 
Yes, I would rather replace both pieces then I don't need to match the profile. I think that is what I'm going to do.
 
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Alternatively, unless strapped for cash, just buy a completely new window i.e. including frame and slap it in :)
 
I'm with @opps - forget B&Q. Better to go and find yourself a timber yard or decent builder's merchant for stuff like this or go on-line. Filler really needs to be a 2-pack and have some flexibility - even P40 (car body filler) is better than any of the one-part fillers. I've had the EWS stabiliser from Reddiseals (specialist sash window repair components firm) in the past - they always have it in stock. They also sell Metolux 2-pack filler with mixer nozzles which always deliver the correct mix ratio (ideally requires a heavy-duty caulking gun such as an Cox or Ox brand)

An alternative supplier is Chemfix, who also have rot repair videos on their site (follow the link)

TBH it doesn't surprise me that B&Q and Wickes don't carry this stuff - only three of the timber merchants I deal with within 10 miles actually stock it - bit of a specialist product


The price of the Chemfix (Timbabuild) epoxy resins at Reddiseals is silly.

https://www.reddiseals.com/product/timbabuild-epoxy-rapid-cure/

£45. Even my local Leyland SDM decorators' merchant "only" charges £40. I recently purchased 3 tubes on eBay for £100.

I did discover another maker recently

https://www.oxerarepair.co.uk/rebuild-epoxy-woodfiller

It seems that "they" used to work for Chemfix and decided to set up their own business. Their epoxy filler is £25. I have no idea if that is with or without VAT- I think the shop part of their site is still under construction because they currently charge £10 to deliver each tube.

By all accounts, their expoxies are just as good as Chemfix.

I will email them over the next week or two. I need about 4 tubes for my next job.
 
I agree that they are a silly price - I've mainly usd Reddiseals for brush strips, beads, sash cord, etc. The last lot of resin I bought (about 15 months ago) were £25 from our wholesaler, but were made by a small resins firm in this neck of the woods . No point in posting a link, though, as I can't for the life of me recall the manufacturer's name and our wholesaler is account only, no mail order.
 
I had a crazy idea. I think I can probably make the bottom and side pieces and I am probably not going to mess about with trying to fill it.
I borrowed my dads router and bits and had a go at making some profile bits and I reckon I can do this, even the joins.

The only bit I'm really worries about is removing the glass. I already have two bits of beading removed, I think with the other two it should come out.
I've drawn the cross-sections on paper and so... what could possibly go wrong? Obviously there are infinite ways it can go wrong and only a couple where it goes right - but to be honest its a while since I did something like this.
 
The only bit I'm really worries about is removing the glass.
That's the biggest problem, or at least if it is puttied in, years old and must be re-used. Secialist glaziers I've worked with used a "putty router" (basically a modified back-handle router - like a Festool OF1010e). I have tried this with an old router, but it wrecks the cutters, doesn't do the router a lot of good and throws sharp carp in your face - so maybe not worthwhile for a one off
 
If you have a chisel, saw and router, you should be able to make a new sash fairly easily.

I mad a replacement sliding Yorkshire window years ago, with little more than above... oh used a couple of ratchet straps whilst the glue set.

You might find it easier to remake than repair.

Can you take a pic of the back of window
 
That is exactly what I did.
I really enjoyed myself, but it was a lot of effort.
 

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I did make a huge mess of the place. Pretty much took all day. If I charged for my time I can see the repair would be too expensive


20220514_184908.jpg

The end result before I put the trim back in. You can't tell its been repaired other than it now looks better than the rest if the building which will need painting.

I sealed the hell out of it and will remember to check it every year.

20220514_160940.jpg


I'm pleased with the result.
 

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