Worcester Greenstar 24i junior

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Bamber gaspipe

Boiler was working o.k, all of a sudden s*d all. Slow flash on blue light indicator, reset flashing. Tried reset, fan kicks in..then nothing..back to reset flashing. Have checked pump, flue for blockages, gas present at valve, water pressure. Have checked air pressure switch by blowing into tube & listening for the click (it does) but is this correct?..control board?..any ideas anyone..
 
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Bamber gaspipe

Have looked, water present,but not a great deal..do you think there may be a blockage?? heat exchanger blocked?.. it`s been working fine up until now..
 
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Bamber gaspipe

Thanks Fitz, have a sneaking suspicion it is the APS, but if anyone has had any experience with this particular fault I`d welcome the advice.
 
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Bamber gaspipe

How can I test without replacing :confused: apart from doing what I have already done?
 
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Blowing into the APS can damage it! I hope you blew softly. As you know this is Corgi territory since it concerns one of the main gas combustion safety devices. I assume from your other posts that you are Corgi, although there's nothing in your profile. Testing the APS is quite simple if you identify the APS lead connections on the PCB and use a multimeter to check for switching.
 
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Bamber gaspipe

Had a feeling it would involve a multimeter..yes, I am Corgi..how do I test p.c.b with multimeter?..This is a boiler I am attending BTW.
 
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You really ought to know this stuff! Can you tell from the boiler circuit diagrams and manual whether we have 230 Volts AC or a lower (24V is typical) voltage (AC or DC) going through the APS?
 
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Bamber gaspipe

chrishutt said:
You really ought to know this stuff! Can you tell from the boiler circuit diagrams and manual whether we have 230 Volts AC or a lower (24V is typical) voltage (AC or DC) going through the APS?

Not as an installer..didn`t need to..have always worked along side sparks & breakdown engineers,fitted new boilers..as long as installation was correct the rest was up to manufacturers..now moving in to breakdown territory, hence the question..most breakdown guys I know aren`t electrical engineers...can you help me out or not?..would appreciate it..going from the wiring diagram it suggests AC 230 Volts,pressure switch connected to overheat stat & down to flue overheat stat,then down to p.c.b.Can`t see where to test the APS...
 
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Bamber gaspipe

Have edited my last Chris...any clearer?..appreciate the advice.. just an addenda: (D.C. )when I plug me boiler into me car battery ;)
 
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Has the APS 3 wires or 2? If 3 it's double throw, meaning the live switches from one terminal to another. You need to find points outside the combustion box (so you can close the cover - I'm assuming the APS is inside the combustion box - is it?) where you can access the wires from the APS, particularly the one that is live when the APS operates. It should be clear from the circuit diagram where to look.
 
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it looks like from the instructions that ive looked at there are 3 wires to this APS. Normally open(NO), normally Close(NC) and common(C). Voltage switches either way. Check to see with your multimeter that the between NO and C that you don't have continuity and between the NC and C that you have continuity. If is stuck in the NO possition when the fan isn't running then the APS may be knackered or a dodgy tube leading to it.

If that is ok then try continuity between NO and C when the fan runs. you should have continuity when the fan runs. If all is ok then suggests the pcb, but i would like to ring worcester before you start replacing pcb just to check your fault diagnosis.


ive just flicked further on in the manual and it shows 2 wires even tho there are 3 connectors on the APS. if this is the case they ignore the NC and just check that NO and C have continuity when th fan runs.
 

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