Worcester Highflow 400 BF overheating

gcm

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Good day,

Worcester Highflow 400 BF about 10 years old, originally fitted to new water/central heating system, has always been very reliable, from memory, new diverter valve fitted under warranty in first couple of years, since then nothing until last year replaced pilot burner tip.

Have now developed a fault(s), boiler tripped for unknown reason, CH system pressure reading about 0.8 Bar so topped up, although pilot would light, it wouldn't stay alight when gas valve push button released. Left it for a few hours relit pilot and system appeared to work normally.

Next day, boiler tripped again and noticed system pressure up to about 3 Bar, which is higher than normal. After a couple of hours, relit, however, very quickly water/CH was very hot (much hotter than normal), so shut down again and arranged local Worcester approved service engineer to attend, next day.

No evidence of safety relief having operated, no water at external outlet.

Service engineer attended and diagnosed expension vessel diaphragm gone, this presumably would explain the much higher pressure than normal (expansion vessel very heavy and full of water).

Service engineer advised replacement of expansion vessel and also possibly thermo couple and/or thyristor to solve overheating problem, advised parts should be available next day, but would confirm re-attendance to fit parts.

Got a phone call from the approved service agents later and was told that the reapir would be very expensive (about £500-£600) primarily because the expansion vessel is very difficult to access (strange as his service engineer had had the expansion vessel off earlier in day and it took 90 seconds), then advised as boiler 10 years old and inefficient (advised 60%) and likely to have further problems soon, best solution to replace with a new (guaranteed) boiler, advised that Worcester 4.5 would be best and very efficient (90%+)replacement (alarms bells here as at another family house I had a Worcester Highflow 4.5 fitted and that was before this 400 BF, so must be more than 10 years ago, estimated cost for new Worcester 4.5 is £2500 + VAT = £3000.

Having checked, it seems Worcester 4.5 is an obsolete model (although service agent said they have one in the showroom!) with an efficiency rating of 65% which is less than the actual 76% of my current 400 BF and it appears that direct replacement for my current model would be the Highflow 440.

As can be seen from above comments, although the service engineer attending appeared proficient, the approved service centre/showroom are a different matter.

Leaving aside the expansion vessel, which I can source and fit. What is the underlying cause(s) of the over heating, is it the thermocouple and/or thyristor as suggested by service engineer attending and what should I expect to pay to have one/other/both replaced?

Please note that the boiler is still functioning and heating water/central heating (only if I keep hot water running and open 5 large radiators as heat sinks to stop heat build up). Does the fact that hot water and central heating are being supplied concurrently mean that the diverter valve is malfunctioning (I was under the impression that when demanding hot water, central heating was not being supplied - which is I presume the job of the diverter valve), perhaps if temperature is enough, both are supplied, as is the case at the moment. If I shut down the hot water taps then water in central heating starts to get very hot (well, I can put my hand on radiators, but not for long), or much hotter than normal, at this point I shut down before tripping/damage.

Sorry for the long message, but hopefully the information contained therein will be sufficient for basic diagnosis.

I would appreciate advise on the above.#

Regards
 
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It sounds as if its an honest engineer but a rogue manager!

The EXV has to be set to the correct air pressure.

You could replace the temperature sensor but better to measure the resistance first.

You need a registered engineer to replace the thermocouple!

I would expect to charge less than £200 for what you are describing.

Tony
 
I had this problem a couple of days ago where the posting was not acknowledged and a display saying the site was undergoing maintenance.

So I repeated the posting!
 
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Thankyou Agile for the reply, my thoughts precisely.

From what the emgineer said I expected a quote of maybe £150-£200 (perhaps a bit more if the other parts were needed, he siad if other parts not needed he would keep them for stock, or perhaps they are returned, I am not sure).

I was a bit shocked to be told about £500-600 for repair to my boiler, that is probably effectively replacing most of the boiler parts. The recommendation of fitting a new Worcester 4.5 seems odd aswell, as does the reference to the expansion vessel being very difficult/time consuming/costly to get out/replace.

If I am being very generous, he mentioned that more parts could be needed soon (due to age about 10 or 11 years old). So perhaps what he meant was it could cost me £500-£600. He did mention a recent job where more and more parts were needed until they ended up replacing the boiler anyway.

Again being very generous, perhaps he was confused with removing the expansion vessel from a Worcester 4.5 (my family has one in another house) which if I remeber rightly, was difficult and time consuming to get to.

Still don't really see why he would want to sell me a Worcester 4.5 though, as it is discontiued and not very efficient by todays standards, again maybe he was confused as he stated that it would be 90%+ efficient, which the 4.5 is not, he said better not to get a wall mounted boiler to replace floor standing (although where it is fitted on an external brick wall, either could be fitted OK), but if he meant a Highflow 440 (natural replacment), then £3000 seems a bit steep!

Regards

It sounds as if its an honest engineer but a rogue manager!

The EXV has to be set to the correct air pressure.

You could replace the temperature sensor but better to measure the resistance first.

You need a registered engineer to replace the thermocouple!

I would expect to charge less than £200 for what you are describing.

Tony
 
The HighFlow 440 is about £1700 to buy at trade prices.

There is considerable work to change from the old boilers to the new ones and the condensate drain has to be added. Often the gas supply needs to be upgraded too.

The weight is considerable and whilst one person can at risk move them around on a level surface several are needed if it needs to be moved to another floor.

Consequently I would be quoting nearly £3000 to supply and fit one. They do have a nice weather comp unit which I would strongly recommend!

( Worcester, my jacket is getting a bit tatty now as I have been advertising Worcester boilers whenever the weather is cold. Can I have a replacement soon please? )

Tony
 
The e.vessel is extremley easy to obtain and fit. Takes minutes, probably the easiest boiler ex.v on the market to change. Vessel retails at £75.

I digress. There are a few things to check in respect of the pilot light going out, nothing to do with div valve though.

The gas valve has an interuptor stat on the main heat exch. This turns g/v off if theres over temp at that stat. Is there pump over run on and is it working-is the system water sludged up. Is the pump sticking first thing in the morning-is there any rust/holes in the bal flue??

Quite a bit to look at and many only done by an RGI.

Worcester will fix it for £215 if it has been fitted correctly and there is full access to it!

Agree with Agile the 440 and 550's are the dogs ****** and extremely well engineered products! Don't dispair yours is very fixable at the mo if money is tight!
 
It sounds as if its an honest engineer but a rogue manager!

The EXV has to be set to the correct air pressure.

You could replace the temperature sensor but better to measure the resistance first.

You need a registered engineer to replace the thermocouple!

I would expect to charge less than £200 for what you are describing.

Tony

Tony just a pointer pal, in the last 10 years of fitting and fixing worcesters doing 3 or 4 jobs a day ( on average) i have only changed 3 stats/thermistors They NEVER go wrong ( unlike other boilers we can mention) The 3 that i have changed were a belt and braces job!

Dont take it the wrong way , just giving you a heads up pal!
 
If the boiler is overheating and has NOT been recently misadjusted then a failed/failing sensor is the prime suspect.

That is something the OP could change himself if he felt so inclined but as always I always DIAGNOSE before changing but many OPs dont have any test equipment and prefer to spend a few pounds on a new part if there is a chance it will fix it.

I am not a very great fan of Worcester boilers but have to admit the 440 that I fitted was very solidly built. Having said that I was surprised that they decided to improve the design rather than making it a simple old out new in.

Tony
 
Good day Agile, thankyou for the response,

I am surprsied that the trade price is so high, I looked and can get a Worcester Highflow 440Cdi at £1608 INCLUDING vat & delivery (many seller's at £1620) without any trade requirement, I suppose that the internet dogfight to sell really does benefit the consumer (as long as he gets a professional to fit it!!!).

Anyway, I digress, acknowledged regarding the work to fit newer type, although I am sure I could most of the work myself, no problem with pipework etc (I renewed all the water & central heating pipework here) - although I wold not touch the gas supply itself, the gas supply was renewed 10 or 11 years ago when this boiler was fitted.

It is on ground floor, and whilst access is not really good, 2 of us got the present one in without too much trouble.

Once I get this sorted, I may send Worcester a note if I feel that their approved service agent is giving bad service/bad advice (haven't fully made my mind up on that yet!), if I do I will mention that you would like a new coat!!!

Regards



The HighFlow 440 is about £1700 to buy at trade prices.

There is considerable work to change from the old boilers to the new ones and the condensate drain has to be added. Often the gas supply needs to be upgraded too.

The weight is considerable and whilst one person can at risk move them around on a level surface several are needed if it needs to be moved to another floor.

Consequently I would be quoting nearly £3000 to supply and fit one. They do have a nice weather comp unit which I would strongly recommend!

( Worcester, my jacket is getting a bit tatty now as I have been advertising Worcester boilers whenever the weather is cold. Can I have a replacement soon please? )

Tony
 
Good day boilerdoktor, thankyou for your response,

I bought yesterday and arrived today a new expansion vessel, which I agree should be reasonably easy for me to fit.

Each time it has been serviced or when a new part fitted and on general inspection, everything looks like new still, I guess it helps that everything was new when it was fitted (boiler/water pipes/water into house from street/gas supply/central heating system/radiators). It has been a very realiable system since new - diverter valve renewed under guarantee fairly early on and pilot light burner replaced last year - that's all.

Before I read your reply, I was reading up elsewhere and was starting to suspect the interupter stat myself.

I guess it must be properly fitted, at least Worcester have been here to change the diverter valve without comment.

As for full acess, well, it's backed up to a brick wall and has another wall on left, however, front, right and top are easy access.

As for most people, money is tight at the moment.

Regards


The e.vessel is extremley easy to obtain and fit. Takes minutes, probably the easiest boiler ex.v on the market to change. Vessel retails at £75.

I digress. There are a few things to check in respect of the pilot light going out, nothing to do with div valve though.

The gas valve has an interuptor stat on the main heat exch. This turns g/v off if theres over temp at that stat. Is there pump over run on and is it working-is the system water sludged up. Is the pump sticking first thing in the morning-is there any rust/holes in the bal flue??

Quite a bit to look at and many only done by an RGI.

Worcester will fix it for £215 if it has been fitted correctly and there is full access to it!

Agree with Agile the 440 and 550's are the dogs **** and extremely well engineered products! Don't dispair yours is very fixable at the mo if money is tight!
 
Good day again Agile, many thanks for your perserverance,

Things have moved on a bit now.

Yesterday, I started the pilot light without any problem (everything off).

Switched on electrical supply, selected hot water "on" and then central heating "on", moved water and heating rotary controls to 9 o'clock position, in order to get my 3 kids a shower before going to school, using the extra couple of taps and plenty of radiators again to act as heatsinks to keep temperature under control and watched system pressure closely, I also had a thermometer to check tap hot water.

Lo and behold, 55C (cold was 10C) rock steady, radiators cold, system pressure steady at about 1.4 Bar.

With the exception of the known fault with the expansion vessel, everything appeared to be working normally. So I thought I would try shutting down the shower/taps and see what happened to the central heating system.

Lo and behold again, radiators warmed up nicely, nothing overheating, system pressure went up to about 1.8Bar and it continued doing this until the afternoon, with me watching it , without any problems. I set the hot water to "off" as I had no requirement for it at that time.

In the afternoon, in order to run the shower again, I set the hot water to "on" again (central heating still "on" in same condition), this resulted in rapid overheating again, system pressure raising towards 3 Bar and hot water from taps very hot and radaitors very hot, at which point I shut it down again, before tripping, pilot light stayed lit

After leaving for a while to cool down/pressure returned to about 1 Bar, I tried again, set hot water to "on" and ran taps & shower, boiler coped with this no problem and supplied hot water at between 50 to 60C depending on amount of water running. System pressure up to about 1.8 Bar. Radaitors remained cold.

I stopped hot water taps and radiator shut down normally, with pilot lit, when opening taps it cycled normally. I shut off taps.

I then switched "on" the central heating and radiators warmed up nicely, all running normally, system pressure 1.4 Bar.

All shut down again last night.

This morning, I put central heating to "on" and again, it all reacted normally, as expected.

Then when showers were wanted again, I switched hot water to "on" and ran shower/taps, again, system overheated within 6-7 minutes and hot water/radiators became very hot, boiler tripped.

I tried relighting pilot, but unable to keep it lit, goes out each time grey button on gas valve is released.

After a while, tried again and relit pilot no problem, set hot water to "on" and boiler supplied hot water to shower/taos without prioblem, no overheating & radiators cold.

Switched central heating "on" and shut down shower/taps, radiators working normally.

This afternoon, with hot water & central heating still "on", central heating supplying normally, so I tried to draw hot water from taps and there was no hot water.

So, in effect, I can run the hot water on its own and it supplies normally. I can run the central heating on its own and it supplies normally.

If I have both hot water and central heating "on" and central heating is working normally, and try to draw hot water from shower taps it seems to either have (a) no hot water or (b) it gives hot water and then overheats.

Please note that the "demand" green indicator light on the control panel appears to go on and off normally when hot water is working normally, however, when things go wrong it appears to be lit all the time, even when taps etc are shut.

Regards






If the boiler is overheating and has NOT been recently misadjusted then a failed/failing sensor is the prime suspect.

That is something the OP could change himself if he felt so inclined but as always I always DIAGNOSE before changing but many OPs dont have any test equipment and prefer to spend a few pounds on a new part if there is a chance it will fix it.

I am not a very great fan of Worcester boilers but have to admit the 440 that I fitted was very solidly built. Having said that I was surprised that they decided to improve the design rather than making it a simple old out new in.

Tony
 
In my last post there was an error and it may confuse.

Line that said;
I stopped hot water taps and radiator shut down normally, with pilot lit, when opening taps it cycled normally. I shut off taps.

Should have read;
I stopped hot water taps and boiler shut down normally, with pilot lit, when opening taps it cycled normally. I shut off taps.
 

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