Worchester Boiler Bosch 24RI - 2 WAY Valves

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Hi guys, i have recently moved into a new home, the last owner had a new Worchester Bosch 24RI condensing boiler installed last year.

Since moving in i have always, noticed the constant sounding of the main pump that is controlled off the 2 way valves (HW
+ CH)

Today i decided to have a closer look, the CH i found that works fine, But i noticed that the HW valve is permantly on, hense my pump sounding noises. I also noticed that there is a plastic wedge has been placed to ensure that the HW valve is always open, this also meaning that the boiler is always switched on.

I removed the plastic wedge, and both valves working fine and the boiler switches on and off as required using the thermostats.

But i have FITTED the wedge back in as I assume there must be a valid reason for this wegde, keeping the valve open that keeps power to the boiler and the pump active.

Can anyone shed some light for any reasons.

Thanks
 
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If it's working properly without the wedge why would you put it back in? Maybe the previous owner was a loon.
 
If it's working properly without the wedge why would you put it back in? Maybe the previous owner was a loon.

Thats what i am thinking, But would like to ensure is not for a specific reason.
 
If it's working properly without the wedge why would you put it back in? Maybe the previous owner was a loon.

Is working properly - meaning the boiler switches off, blue light included, and only comes on, blue light followed by green when the 2 way valve is opened.

If that is what it should be like, I will remove the wedge :)

Cheers!
 
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The blue light should be on all the time. If the system (not just the boiler) has power the light is on. The boiler has been wired wrong. It needs a permanent live and the pump (for overun) must be controlled by the boiler.
Some halfwit has installed it and probably been called back so stuck the bit plastic in as a bodge. Probably no bypass fitted either.
Get someone in to check it before it damages the boiler.
 
The blue light should be on all the time. If the system (not just the boiler) has power the light is on. The boiler has been wired wrong. It needs a permanent live and the pump (for overun) must be controlled by the boiler.
Some halfwit has installed it and probably been called back so stuck the bit plastic in as a bodge. Probably no bypass fitted either.
Get someone in to check it before it damages the boiler.

Hi mate, that explains it then. By adding this wedge they have a permanent live to the boiler and the pump running (blue light on) as soon as as i remove the wedge it switches off and only works from the timer on the wall.

I best get it checked over.

Thanks so much.
 
The blue light should be on all the time. If the system (not just the boiler) has power the light is on. The boiler has been wired wrong. It needs a permanent live and the pump (for overun) must be controlled by the boiler.
Some halfwit has installed it and probably been called back so stuck the bit plastic in as a bodge. Probably no bypass fitted either.
Get someone in to check it before it damages the boiler.

Hi mate, that explains it then. By adding this wedge they have a permanent live to the boiler and the pump running (blue light on) as soon as as i remove the wedge it switches off and only works from the timer on the wall.

I best get it checked over.

Thanks so much.

what make of valve is this? wedging the lever open normally opens the valve but does not 'make' the microswitch that sends a live to the boiler/pump. get someone in.
 
No wonder the trade gets a bad name :oops:

Who said a "tradesperson" fitted it, maybe it's a DIY install, or the previous householder got "a mate" to fit it, nothing to do with proper installers, only the lack of enforcement of the millions of regs dreamt up by by overpaid agencies, "no wonder the lawmakers/enforcers get a bad name" ;)
 
The blue light should be on all the time.

I way be way off the mark here, but cant Worcesters be installed with the blue light 'extinguished' when the boiler has no call for heat. (Useful when the boilers are installed in bedrooms and the light can annoy sleepers at night).
 
2 port valves in the manual position are nearly fully open, but the microswitch is still off. Wedging them fully open puts the switch on as well.

It is possible that the motor has failed in the DHW valve, or it may have been wedged open to cover for the lack of a bypass.

Pump overrun is there to dissipate residual heat from the boiler. Don't just bypass it back to the boiler because that defeats the object, and will raise the return temperature. You don't want that on a condensing boiler.

You should branch off a bypass before the two 2 port valves, and this should feed either a radiator with lockshield valves, or a heated towel rail. This will be warmed whenever the boiler fires for CH or DHW. Neat, or what?
 
but cant Worcesters be installed with the blue light 'extinguished' when the boiler has no call for heat. (Useful when the boilers are installed in bedrooms and the light can annoy sleepers at night).

They can but i have yet to come across one that is
 
You cannot correctly install an RI with the blue light extinguished unless you have an extra circuit to depower the permanent live after pump over run has ceased.

In a bedroom it would be wise to have the boiler in a box for sound reductions anyway.

If the light bothers anyone then just put some tape over it.

To recap, the OP needs the boiler wired correctly and a autobypass fitted.

Tony
 
Or put in a nice little Baxi Solo, doesnt need a permanent live, and has a flow switch and optional pump feed built in so you can fit TRV's to all rads, so no room stat needed, unlike these prima donna Woosters.
 

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